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Old 01-06-2012, 01:59 AM   #1546
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Hi

I had my MTX5 out yesterday at Sunny Coast with my brother. It has lost drive and engine just free revs, it sounds like one way bearing in 2 speed to me.... But wasn't sure what effect the diffs stripping had, can someone elaborate for me?

Thanks in advance
Andrew
It's the one way if the spur gears spin, but not the mid shaft. One way oil usually helps to get a crook one way working for a little while. It's the clutch if the gears don't spin.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:48 AM   #1547
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Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
It's the one way if the spur gears spin, but not the mid shaft. One way oil usually helps to get a crook one way working for a little while. It's the clutch if the gears don't spin.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

Lars

It seems like it is the one way... takes quite a bit of throttle to get the mid shaft to spin up.

I had a slipping bearing in my V1R and G4S and both times i have tried cleaning them and applying new oil to no avail. I am just going to order a replacement bearing...

Has anyone else had any issues with the bearing as yet?

Andrew
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:46 PM   #1548
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Lars

It seems like it is the one way... takes quite a bit of throttle to get the mid shaft to spin up.

I had a slipping bearing in my V1R and G4S and both times i have tried cleaning them and applying new oil to no avail. I am just going to order a replacement bearing...

Has anyone else had any issues with the bearing as yet?

Andrew
I think issues with new one-way bearings occur in all brands of cars from time to time. I've seen it in a brand new TM; and we and problems with a fairly new one in our Capricorn just recently, while the the last one in the old Capricorn seemed to go forever.

I think it's just bad luck at times.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:36 PM   #1549
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What have you done to increase the smoothness of the model?
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:50 AM   #1550
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Default centax

Hello today I was finally able to test the car thoroughly, all day and no problem of coronation, the car as best I went to my style of pilotage was with the xray springs, so if you notice is that the tour Centax defectuozamente, the dismantle and mushroom does not turn straight, it makes an oval and sprockets are strangers to him happened to others a alguien.Por 10 very happy with the
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:37 PM   #1551
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Default springs

help when the track has little grip that springs must use soft or hard?. And when the track has high grip springs q using hard or soft?
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:52 PM   #1552
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low grib hard springs/hight grib soft springs
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:26 PM   #1553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brosla7 View Post
low grib hard springs/hight grib soft springs
Extract from Hudy Set-up book:


Effects of Spring Selection
Stiffer
springs

Makes the car more responsive.
Car reacts faster to steering inputs.
Stiff springs are suited for tight, high-traction tracks that aren’t too bumpy.
Usually when you stiffen all of the springs, you lose a small amount of
steering, and reduce chassis roll.
Softer
springs

Makes the car feel as if it has a little more traction in low grip conditions.
Better for bumpy and very large and open tracks.
Springs that are too soft make the car feel sluggish and slow, allowing
more chassis roll.
Stiffer
front
springs

Makes the car more stable, but with less front traction and less steering.
Car will be harder to get the car to turn.
Turning radius increases.
Car will have much less steering at corner exit.
Very stiff springs are preferred on very high-grip tracks, or if the track
itself feels tacky or sticky.
Softer
front
springs

Makes the car have more steering, especially mid-corner and at corner exit.
Front springs that are too soft can make the car oversteer (lose rear grip).
Stiffer
rear
springs

Makes the car have less rear traction, but more steering mid-corner
and at corner exit. This is especially apparent in long, high-speed
corners.
Softer
rear
springs

Makes the car have more rear side traction mid corner, through
bumpy sections, and while accelerating (forward traction).

Softer spring are often used to increase grip; but funny enough, stiffer springs can at times can actually give better grip. You will always have to test to find the ideal set-up, the top drivers employed by manufacturers always do. Springs are quick to change so if you're not sure; test by using medium stiff springs first, and then change to hard or soft to test which works best. Only trouble with it is that damping should also be changed to suit springs.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Last edited by Chickentrader; 01-08-2012 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:39 PM   #1554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manchu View Post
Hello today I was finally able to test the car thoroughly, all day and no problem of coronation, the car as best I went to my style of pilotage was with the xray springs, so if you notice is that the tour Centax defectuozamente, the dismantle and mushroom does not turn straight, it makes an oval and sprockets are strangers to him happened to others a alguien.Por 10 very happy with the
??????
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:28 PM   #1555
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??????
His "thrust bearing stopper", or end bit on the centax/clutch, has been drilled off center like many of us have found, some are drilled at an angle, some off center, poor form from Mugen, most don't even notice the defect till it's creating issues.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:51 PM   #1556
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Greek's do it better?
Click the below link in order to see custom upgrades of MTX-5 including innovated flex system like MRX5.

Click here.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:48 PM   #1557
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Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
His "thrust bearing stopper", or end bit on the centax/clutch, has been drilled off center like many of us have found, some are drilled at an angle, some off center, poor form from Mugen, most don't even notice the defect till it's creating issues.
Hi, in my centax, I have the same problem. The soluction is buy another one "End Bit" ?Itīs a problem of the first kistīs?
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:45 PM   #1558
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Originally Posted by toze View Post
Hi, in my centax, I have the same problem. The soluction is buy another one "End Bit" ?Itīs a problem of the first kistīs?
One of our local guys tried 6 different clutch extension shafts that our local importer gave him, and only one had a hole that looked like it was drilled straight. The car kept on stripping gears however, so they finally deduced that the hole in that one was still not perfectly straight. The solution that another local MTX5 driver has come up with, was to go the a local engineering shop and get some shafts turned out. That fixed the problem; and I would have done exactly that if I owned one of these cars, a few little pieces like that wouldn't cost much to get done from a small engineering shop.

It appears like Mugen's engineering contractor has drilled the very deep holes after turning the shaft; instead of turning the shaft out from the center of a hole that was drilled first. Ridicilous it seems; and quiet basic which any engineer should have known.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:58 PM   #1559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
His "thrust bearing stopper", or end bit on the centax/clutch, has been drilled off center like many of us have found, some are drilled at an angle, some off center, poor form from Mugen, most don't even notice the defect till it's creating issues.
do you mean the part with the no. T2707? So this was the reason of stripping gears and not the flex of the rear end?
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:26 PM   #1560
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do you mean the part with the no. T2707? So this was the reason of stripping gears and not the flex of the rear end?
Exactly T2707. I donīt know how I can resolved this issue...i
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