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Old 01-15-2012, 12:30 AM   #1576
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Angry mtx5

may be we all should by some //red fast bits//cap ha/ ha/ha
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Old 01-15-2012, 12:32 AM   #1577
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Angry mtx5

maybe you can bend it a bit more as it is not straight now
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Old 01-15-2012, 12:52 AM   #1578
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i'm still having issues with my cars brakes. i can't get the pads to bite hard enough, and winding up the brake on the radio and the servo horn leads to massive chassis bend at full bite... which isn't enough brakes still.

Also i've found the whole pad isn't touching the disk. there's a shinny spot on the pad where the brake lever pushes on the pad, but the whole pad is not grabbing the disk you can also see this as there is a shinny part on the disk where the pads grab but the whole disk isn't shinny.

at full bite you can see that the pads do not grab the disk on the edges of the pad

i'm not a fan of the rotating cam type system for the brakes....maybe the pads take more than a Nationals event to break in, anyone else found they lack brakes?...i'm starting to get the sh1ts with these pads
TomB:

Am having the same problem, chassis flex's alot just under the movement of the servo as you brake. I haven't stripped any gears like other or had any diff issues touch wood, but have had to replace the one way bearing in the transmission.

I am sure Mugen will release a brace, but nothing will happen until after Chinese New Year i am guessing!

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Old 01-15-2012, 01:08 AM   #1579
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Touchee!

But we got Michael back last night after loosing 2 laps when the engine flamed out at the start. Great meeting; you and Peter should have come, we're missing you.
It would be very interesting to see Michael at the helm of a modern car, he's an awesome driver, considering he is running a 2003 engine and an MTX3. In the first heats he was chasing Luke and Luke's engine had an easy 10 lengths on his...

Then I gave him a bag of Capricorn tyres *chuckles* ... and he smoked us!!!!

Keeper, in this case it's the driver but in the case of stripping gears, it's the car and Mugen needs to address this issue immediately. It's unfair on the younger drivers to have to deal with it.
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:38 AM   #1580
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It would be very interesting to see Michael at the helm of a modern car, he's an awesome driver, considering he is running a 2003 engine and an MTX3. In the first heats he was chasing Luke and Luke's engine had an easy 10 lengths on his...

Then I gave him a bag of Capricorn tyres *chuckles* ... and he smoked us!!!!

Keeper, in this case it's the driver but in the case of stripping gears, it's the car and Mugen needs to address this issue immediately. It's unfair on the younger drivers to have to deal with it.
stripping gears is a setup issue not a car design issue.

some people had the same problem with the 4... ever since i have been driving the 4 i have never stripped a gear other than wearing them out....
peter

Last edited by The_Keeper; 01-15-2012 at 01:40 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:08 AM   #1581
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stripping gears is a setup issue not a car design issue.

some people had the same problem with the 4... ever since i have been driving the 4 i have never stripped a gear other than wearing them out....
peter
That's not true, if the chassis flexes with the torque of an engine and an aggressive clutch, the pinion and spur's mesh will slightly part and it will strip. Perhaps those that were not stripping spurs were running more slip on the clutch or less aggressive engine tunes etc. Longer gearing, large tyres will also exaggerate this.

Newton's law applies here, the anti clockwise rotation of the engine (looking at the clutch) means the engine will be forced in a clockwise direction. and the 2 speed will work in the opposite direction. If the chassis plate isnt rigid enough its possible.

I saw somewhere a 7075 plate in the makings, and Luke showed me an image of a top brace made of CF and it seemed to stop the strips. I inintially thought the crossover design of the transmission mounts and engine mount etc would make it a rigid area flexing more toward the handle

Otherwise it's the clutch's thrust bearing retainer or clutch itself hard to say, but it's not possible for EVERYONE to be stripping gears and assume it's an isolated setup issue.

PS: it's none of my business, sure... But I'd like to see the young fellas racing with us have a fair go and it's hard to see them having a hard time.
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:33 AM   #1582
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Tom, did you clean the disk and pads with meths before fitting?, being a real brake friction material, it will get irrevocably contaminated from oils used to stop the disk rusting in the packs, in other words, the pads will never grip if they get the wrong oils on them and it soaks in.

Actually I worry a little about diff silicone fluid getting on the disk and pads myself, cause I know that will root friction material as well...
i did this with the original disk, AFTER using it a few times. i didn't do this from the build...but in saying this, i can't see how the pads could be this volatile if not preped? i've had brake pads with real brake disk material before (KM racing NT1 pads) and never had an issue.

in my opinion, the material used is too hard, it doesn't reach the appropriate temps, and also the rotating lever system doesn't apply the pad to the disk evenly.

the old/normal style of brake disks i've used before had a alloy plate push across the entire pad, this way, the pressure is even. the mTX5 uses the rotating push lever system and it doesn't apply the brakes evenly.

i'll give it one more go. i've installed the optional brake pads. i'll sand them down...but i doubt they will be much better....the mugen brake pad material just does not bite hard enough!


regarding the stripping, it can be usually attribibuted to:
1) a very small gap between the 2 speed clutch shoe and the 2 speed housing = increase the gap between the shoes and the housing

2) space out the larger spur gear so that it sits flush with the edge where the E clip goes seated on the shaft.

3) unscrew the spur gears 1st and 2nd, then heat up the gears in the oven at 80 degrees then screw in the screws in an "X" pattern when the plastic is soft. Heating the gears removes the warp that can occur when you insert the screws into the plastic when cold. spin gears and make sure they are not warped...re do if needed until they spin true, to very much almost true.
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:26 AM   #1583
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I will get my mtx5 next week, I hope I made a right decision with this kit^^

I´ve heard that the new pads have a higher coefficient of friction, so they shall be a little bit better.


one question about stripping gears. will only strip the 2nd gear or both?
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:26 PM   #1584
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looked way better than anything else on the track .
Hmmm - I tought our car did, and Taynton thought his car NT1 looked awesome. I agreed with Taynton, but realise now that I'm just a one-eyed dad. Thanks for straighten it out for me Peter.

Kindest regards,
One-eyed Lars.
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:29 PM   #1585
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Looking for pics of Fukuda's 200mm paint scheme on his 2011 Mugen.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:38 AM   #1586
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Angry mtx5

baileys car has had about 25 liters through now with about 4 diferent engens all adjustments have remaned constent no gear troubel till sat night/ same clutch exc shorley you can race in the night pinions look great hardley any flex with brace on if we are all so stupid and it is set up i will g and by a bloody cap/////// carnt say name after all mugens sinse prime 12 and yes we had troubil with mtx4 but it was nealey alwys clutch/bearings the kids just want race and that is what we got the dam thing 4
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:21 AM   #1587
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With any luck, Mugen will come up with some kit revisions to take away the guess work on some of the issues, but I'm not sure it's going to live up to some expectations long term, at least not in terms of what people now expect from cars like the Cap, though I guess the industry is a harsh mistress now, people now seem to want bullet fast and ability to be bullet proof and insensitive to setup and maintenance.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:33 AM   #1588
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Default Updated MTX5

New updates on Mugen´s page.

Click on "Whats New"

http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:55 AM   #1589
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Originally Posted by Luís Cortez View Post
New updates on Mugen´s page.

Click on "Whats New"

http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm
those baulkheads are not cheap Mugen should do an Xray and provide the updated parts for free. If the diff case design is different then that really sucks for those like myself who purchased new diff cases as spares for different viscosity oils

i can't imagine what's difference with those parts though as they look identical (except for the obvious differences in materials in some parts)

i can only imagine that the rear upper baulkheads had a small change in the geometry of the brake cam? if the height of the diffs have changed then that would also mean different diff bearing inserts which are not listed as different.

Last edited by TomB; 01-16-2012 at 04:07 AM.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:19 AM   #1590
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Hmm, I think I can see what they have done, maybe, sort of, but the revised alloy has me stumped, unless it's maybe to do with the changed and what looks like widened carbon link mount...

Steel diff gears was always going to happen, less expected in the changed diff plastics, unless maybe the changed the design so you can't mix up the front and back covers...


Suddenly though, the discounting on the current kits that have happened in the past week or so make sense, of course now I really need to decide if I should buy a new kit or not, maybe, maybe not, I'll see when it's getting closer to Qld's perhaps...
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