InitialD

Crash, how did you set the Centax clutch? Does the clutchbell have a lot of play when installed?

I think your problem is that the clutch retaining nut is rubbing against the clutchbell which causes the retaining nut to self tighten after a tank or two.

In order to keep the retaining nut away from the rotating clutchbell, you need to put shims between the retaining nut and the normal bearing that goes directly behind the clutchbell.

There are 2 benefits from doing this... Firstly, this may avoid the clutchbell rubbing against the clutch shoe at idle and prevents the engine from stalling. To check, your clutchbell should rotate freely when installed and turned on the engine shaft with the clutchbell upwards facing you. Secondly, your thrust bearings will thank you for this. By putting shims in between the retaining nut and the normal bearing that goes directly behind the clutchbell, you lessen the clutchbell free play you get once installed. This will be easier on the thrust bearing and extends it's life. How many shims? That you need to find out yourself.

The rule of thumb is that the total shim thickness added in between the retaining nut and the normal bearing that goes directly behind the clutchbell must be 0.2 to 0.3 mm less than the end float (i.e. distance of the clutchbell and the clutchshoe). Good luck !

crashed_1

Thanx Buddy...I knew I could count on you for expert advise...

Hows the snake?...mebbe I should post my distress calls in the Serpent forums for quicker replies...

crashed_1

I think I'm gonna do that on my next time out on the trax. If it works hell I'm gonna stick with the thread lock thingy and have one less problem to worry about.

thanx.

InitialD

Well, the Centax clutch is pretty generic. Most of the time, its the same method of installation regardless of the brand of the car.

The snake is too good. Besides, you're too deep with the NTC3 ! There's no turning back !

Were you in Titi on Sunday? I went there at about 3 pm and guess what... It rained again ! Really not a productive weekend !

Boomer

When you have the steering (or toe link) disconnected, it should flop around very freely. When I assemble (or reassemble as the case may be) the carriers, I make sure that the balls are tight, then back off just enough to let them flop around but not have slop.

DON"T overtighten your servo-saver spring. That is actually harmful because it has only ONE effect - it limits the amount of travel the servo-saver can have.


I know the illustration is crude, but it should give a good idea of why it's a bad idea. Essentially, if you tighten the screw all the way down, you have a direct link between steering and your servo and that can be a bad thing. If you are perfect, then you don't need the servo saver, but since Barry runs one, I figure I will too!

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

hey hows it going? About the shaft, does harmony model have a web site? As to where we can purchase the shaft??

thanks Jason

thefuzzclub

this thread really slowed down. i remebered early part of 2003 where i always see this thread always on top of the list. many of the drivers shifted to another car like R40, mtx3, vir evo etc.?
well just a thought since i still have my ntc3 close to year now and liking it a lot.

chorner

of course Barry runs a servo saver, its probably tightened up though You think? I mean, who needs a buncha push in sweepers and hard corners from the servo saver taking in some of the required torque?

kreidel

iTrader: (2)

I think pretty much any question you could ask has already been asked....not much to say. Maybe some NTC3 owners can post some pics of their cars and list there setups for some others to view.

spawn

iTrader: (6)

my tc3 with lola bodyshell

spawn

iTrader: (6)

with stratus 2.1

kreidel

iTrader: (2)

Here is one of my NTC3's with a 2.1 Stratus

kreidel

iTrader: (2)

Here is another with a Honda NSX body

kreidel

iTrader: (2)

2 of my NTC3's naked

kreidel

iTrader: (2)

A friendly group pic of Nitro TC3's before the races.