Niklas Edlund

As earlier mentioned I slightly moved the center of the two holes that holds the std rear swaybar so I could use 4-40 screws instead (if you missed it, go to page 197). In this picture you can see how it turned out and also that a plastic #4 washer is used under the button head. The right hand washer needs to be cut down slightly, otherwise it cant be fitted (it interferes with the gearbox cover). Do note there are three different rear swaybars available.

.055 - 1.4 mm - Black - Optional - AE #3969
.062 - 1.6 mm - Silver - std in FT - AE #3960
.078 - 2 mm - Gold - Optional - AE #3969

Niklas Edlund

The rear rollbar cups should according to the manual be connected with a 5/14 long 4-40 set screw. But if one should assemble it according to the manual (@ 24.5mm / .96" C-C) the connecting set-screw almost falls out. Take a 12 mm long M3 set-screw instead and leave about 3 mm space between the cups and you'll have a more ridgid coupling. Dont thread the set screw all the way in the cups, leave some margin for adjusting the tweak.

Niklas Edlund

Earlier in this thread there has been lots and lots of talk about foaming fuel or "washer" effect. I have noticed it also sometimes and noticed that the tank will rub against the front left chassi brace, took the dremel and a small sander drum and removed some material from the post and used two shock orings (AE #5407) on the tank screws (they need to be longer also) and at the EC in Portugal last year the foaming stopped if I remember it correctly.

Niklas Edlund

The plastic in the bodymount post are quite soft so the threads in them can quite easy be stripped. Take drill and run it all the way through and use a small pattern alu locknut on the other side together with a longer 4-40. Rock solid from day one.

Niklas Edlund

First I re-shape the foam bumper slightly. If you use it in its std shape you will notice that the front wheels have eaten a little on it. That part is cut away, see picture.

Niklas Edlund

This is how the bumper system looks like that is included with the latest kits and RTR-Plus. Do note the foam bumper is about 3 mm (1/8) thicker now vs earlier foam bumpers (a running change on #2227). Now its 21 mm thick and earlier it was 18 mm.

Niklas Edlund

If you want to use the earlier narrow front arm mount with the new thicker foam, make some spacers from left-over bumper material, about 3 mm thick each.

Niklas Edlund

If you have the "old" thinner 18 mm foam bumper and want to do the same, make an thicker 6 mm (1/4) foam spacer. Booth of these saves some weight in the front. Maybe not the best for parking lots, but hey, we dont race on those type of tracks here...

Niklas Edlund

I'm not shure if it has been mentioned in this thread (+200 pages)? But there is an low profile 8-32 aluminium wheel nut available from AE. On the picture it is on the right, the std blue that is included in the FT is to the left.

AE #6296 - 8-32 low profile aluminium locknuts (6 per bag).

Niklas Edlund

Our new engines has'nt arrived yet so I'm finishing off the tips for today with this engine related "pro-tip".

Some of the .12 engines have cooling heads that the manufacturer has "forgott" to mill away the anodizing from the area where the head meets the combustion chamber (buttons?). So last year I came up with an simple tool that you put in your dremel and quite easy can remove the anodizing and make the surface smooth. In the 40 deg C (100+ F) heat at the EC 2003 it lowered the motor temp by some 10-15 deg C.

Niklas Edlund

The tool is made of some slotracing parts by Parma. The aluminium disk is a whisper-jet rear axle belt pully and an Parma rear axle for a slot car glued together by JB Quick. Then simply glued to some 320 wet-n-dry paper with epoxy. Before the glue fully harden, cut it with a scissor. Use it in a dremel on low RPM's and use WD40 as lubricant. The paper last some 3 heads, then needs to be replaced.

Thats all for now, hope U got inspired for building your own FT-ride!?

nitro rookie

What shore foams do people usually run on their NTC3's? Also what brand?

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Niklas Edlund......when are you going to write a "NTC3 for dummies".........LOL, your information are awesome, and really appreciated you to spend all the time to write, detail and pictures all the tips........great job.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Personally, I will stay away from NITRO SHOES.....don't get me wrong, when I tried their foams, I thought I will never use something else (like Elleggi, Fast tires, or speed mind...etc)...however, after several runs, the foams are either split in the middle, or start chunking in the middle.....NOT the side, right in the middle....

I tried at least 3 set, all of them are splitting in the middle and chunking in the middle....

I can understand chunking on the side for hard cornering.....but middle? that is just poor quality.

So lately, I switched back to Ellegi, Fast Tires or Speedmind........I usually TRY to run front and rear the same shore, which is all around 40 shores...but if REAR tracking and COOL weather occured, I will switch to rear 37 (softer) just in case.........car is very good steering when using 40 shores....if I need more steering, probably change to softer springs and open damper before switching to 37 shores at front.

P.S. you can only use 0 offset to comply with ROAR rules....only Nitro shoes has 2 degree offset or 0 degree offset.

Niklas Edlund

Rookie: Thanks for the positive comments, I just want to not just complain about that there is no info in these threads... mostly its just BS. Just trying to make it my way and maybee help or at least inspire people that its fun wrenching also (sometimes) - helps to have a good chassi also...

Manual for dummies: the idea is actually to make a type of "manual" when its ready and put it in a pdf on our website... so you're right there.