2LikesRc10ntc3
10-08-2003, 03:33 PM
#5296
FOAM TIRES
Purchased many tires from this guy....very good service
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34063
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34063
10-08-2003, 06:38 PM
#5297
Originally posted by sook
Spawn, I have used the steel cvd's and came to a conclusion that the stock cvd's are better. I know someone that uses the ae front one-way and he rebuilds his every race, sometimes twice in one day of racing and he is the fastest around our tracks with the ntc3.
Spawn, I have used the steel cvd's and came to a conclusion that the stock cvd's are better. I know someone that uses the ae front one-way and he rebuilds his every race, sometimes twice in one day of racing and he is the fastest around our tracks with the ntc3.
10-08-2003, 07:30 PM
#5298
i have found the rtr dogbones to be less prone to bending than the blue kit ones , actually i have even used the composite
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
10-08-2003, 09:31 PM
#5299
Originally posted by sbmon
i have found the rtr dogbones to be less prone to bending than the blue kit ones , actually i have even used the composite
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
i have found the rtr dogbones to be less prone to bending than the blue kit ones , actually i have even used the composite
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
10-08-2003, 11:38 PM
#5300
Nuts fix = Camber fix
Hey All, I came up with an idea from the makers of the FIX. I was wondering has anyone tried to put the nut from the toe FIX on the pivot balls that controll the camber, to stop the camber setting from becomming off set. If it would lock similar to the toe FIX, would this not solve the problem of the camber?
Let me konw your thoughts?
jason
Let me konw your thoughts?
jason
10-09-2003, 06:27 AM
#5301
Tech Adept
Originally posted by sbmon
i have found the rtr dogbones to be less prone to bending than the blue kit ones , actually i have even used the composite
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
i have found the rtr dogbones to be less prone to bending than the blue kit ones , actually i have even used the composite
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
10-09-2003, 06:28 AM
#5302
Tech Adept
Originally posted by thefuzzclub
i plan to change my stock rtr dogbone to alloy cvd(color blue), are you referring to the team factory cvd's? please advise before i buy. thanks.
i plan to change my stock rtr dogbone to alloy cvd(color blue), are you referring to the team factory cvd's? please advise before i buy. thanks.
10-09-2003, 06:30 AM
#5303
i have seen this done but
when done in the front the nuts
would very likely bind the steering prematurely
so you could not get full steering throw from the car
and the nuts would not have to be reverse thread
to do this , if you do try this i recomend the most narrow
nut you can find . with really narrow nuts this would
probably work okay
when done in the front the nuts
would very likely bind the steering prematurely
so you could not get full steering throw from the car
and the nuts would not have to be reverse thread
to do this , if you do try this i recomend the most narrow
nut you can find . with really narrow nuts this would
probably work okay
10-09-2003, 06:35 AM
#5304
Tech Adept
Re: Nuts fix = Camber fix
Originally posted by jscamry
Hey All, I came up with an idea from the makers of the FIX. I was wondering has anyone tried to put the nut from the toe FIX on the pivot balls that controll the camber, to stop the camber setting from becomming off set. If it would lock similar to the toe FIX, would this not solve the problem of the camber?
Let me konw your thoughts?
jason
Hey All, I came up with an idea from the makers of the FIX. I was wondering has anyone tried to put the nut from the toe FIX on the pivot balls that controll the camber, to stop the camber setting from becomming off set. If it would lock similar to the toe FIX, would this not solve the problem of the camber?
Let me konw your thoughts?
jason
ps. no binding of the steering with this fix.
10-09-2003, 08:45 AM
#5305
That's what I've done - works great.
and it hasn't seemed to weaken the arms at all - no pivot balls pulling out (in fact, when I've broken one PB, it broke LEAVING the portion that the set screw was touching. . .still got it out though) or arms breaking.
Simplest method is better. . .imho
and it hasn't seemed to weaken the arms at all - no pivot balls pulling out (in fact, when I've broken one PB, it broke LEAVING the portion that the set screw was touching. . .still got it out though) or arms breaking.
Simplest method is better. . .imho
10-12-2003, 10:03 PM
#5306
to all ntc3 owners,
i need better torque for our technical tight track.
my engine is novarossi s5
dynamite inline pipe (long manifold)
gearing: 21/27(pinion) 48/54(spur)
should i change my gearing to 20/24, 50/54 as recommended ny some or change my pipe to a shorter manifold like the rd logics or ae dual chamber?
your inputs please...
i need better torque for our technical tight track.
my engine is novarossi s5
dynamite inline pipe (long manifold)
gearing: 21/27(pinion) 48/54(spur)
should i change my gearing to 20/24, 50/54 as recommended ny some or change my pipe to a shorter manifold like the rd logics or ae dual chamber?
your inputs please...
10-12-2003, 10:28 PM
#5307
foam tires
Hey all, I agree with racecar850. I too have bought foams from Tim, the same guy on ebay that sells the nitro shoes and ellegies. It took about a week to reach me in FL from HK, you just cant beat the prices, I plan to order some more tires in a few weeks...
J.
J.
10-13-2003, 01:28 AM
#5308
Originally posted by thefuzzclub
should i change my gearing to 20/24, 50/54 as recommended ny some or change my pipe to a shorter manifold like the rd logics or ae dual chamber?
should i change my gearing to 20/24, 50/54 as recommended ny some or change my pipe to a shorter manifold like the rd logics or ae dual chamber?
10-13-2003, 01:37 AM
#5309
Originally posted by InitialD
Shorter manifold will give you higher rev, not better low end torque. Go with the 20/24 pinions. 21/27 is pretty tall. What track is this? High speed one? You may want to try 20/26 if you need to drive on a long high speed track.
Shorter manifold will give you higher rev, not better low end torque. Go with the 20/24 pinions. 21/27 is pretty tall. What track is this? High speed one? You may want to try 20/26 if you need to drive on a long high speed track.
10-13-2003, 05:40 AM
#5310
K Factory CENTAX GEARING
Has anyone experienced gear mesh problems when using the K Factory centax with the following gearing:
21/27 pinion with a 48/54 spur
The problem I've experienced is that the diameter of 21 tooth pinion for the K Factory centax is a little too large, causing the gear mesh on the 27 pinion 48 spur to be way too loose. Actually the teeth on the 27/48 barely come together.
Actually the gear mesh problem occurs when using the 21 tooth pinion with in any combination.
I wrote Trinity and anticipate a response soon, Joel is usually pretty good at responding, but just wanted to canvass you guys to see if anyone besides me has experienced this problem.
21/27 pinion with a 48/54 spur
The problem I've experienced is that the diameter of 21 tooth pinion for the K Factory centax is a little too large, causing the gear mesh on the 27 pinion 48 spur to be way too loose. Actually the teeth on the 27/48 barely come together.
Actually the gear mesh problem occurs when using the 21 tooth pinion with in any combination.
I wrote Trinity and anticipate a response soon, Joel is usually pretty good at responding, but just wanted to canvass you guys to see if anyone besides me has experienced this problem.