R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-08-2003, 04:33 PM   #5296
Tech Addict
 
racecar850's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Independence, MO
Posts: 562
Send a message via MSN to racecar850 Send a message via Yahoo to racecar850 Send a message via Skype™ to racecar850
Thumbs up FOAM TIRES

Purchased many tires from this guy....very good service
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34063

__________________
Mugen MTX-4 :tire:
T-MAXX 3.3 :deathstar
MacBook...got fed up with pc :confused:

DRIVING...An inconvenient way of getting from A to B
racecar850 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2003, 07:38 PM   #5297
Tech Addict
 
thefuzzclub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 704
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sook
Spawn, I have used the steel cvd's and came to a conclusion that the stock cvd's are better. I know someone that uses the ae front one-way and he rebuilds his every race, sometimes twice in one day of racing and he is the fastest around our tracks with the ntc3.
i plan to change my stock rtr dogbone to alloy cvd(color blue), are you referring to the team factory cvd's? please advise before i buy. thanks.
thefuzzclub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2003, 08:30 PM   #5298
Tech Adept
 
sbmon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: central florida
Posts: 242
Default

i have found the rtr dogbones to be less prone to bending than the blue kit ones , actually i have even used the composite
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
sbmon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2003, 10:31 PM   #5299
Tech Addict
 
thefuzzclub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 704
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
i have found the rtr dogbones to be less prone to bending than the blue kit ones , actually i have even used the composite
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
noted with thanks.
thefuzzclub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 12:38 AM   #5300
Tech Addict
 
jscamry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oviedo,FL
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to jscamry Send a message via MSN to jscamry Send a message via Yahoo to jscamry Send a message via Skype™ to jscamry
Default Nuts fix = Camber fix

Hey All, I came up with an idea from the makers of the FIX. I was wondering has anyone tried to put the nut from the toe FIX on the pivot balls that controll the camber, to stop the camber setting from becomming off set. If it would lock similar to the toe FIX, would this not solve the problem of the camber?

Let me konw your thoughts?

jason
jscamry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 07:27 AM   #5301
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: texas
Posts: 236
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
i have found the rtr dogbones to be less prone to bending than the blue kit ones , actually i have even used the composite
cvds from the electric tc3 , they held up fine for a few races
when i took them out they were slightly twisted but not bent
it seems like when you get a slight bend in the cvds the outer
hub bearing always goes too, so if you keep blowing outer
hub bearings check for a bend in the cvd
With my driving style, I am way harsh on the throttle for the electric composite cvd's. I have noticed that the inner bearings blow before the outer bearings when the cvd's have a bend. Good call on that one.
sook is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 07:28 AM   #5302
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: texas
Posts: 236
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by thefuzzclub
i plan to change my stock rtr dogbone to alloy cvd(color blue), are you referring to the team factory cvd's? please advise before i buy. thanks.
Alloy blue cvd's is what I would stick to for now. So far all the aftermarket cvd's have not held up as long as the alloy cvd's.
sook is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 07:30 AM   #5303
Tech Adept
 
sbmon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: central florida
Posts: 242
Default

i have seen this done but
when done in the front the nuts
would very likely bind the steering prematurely
so you could not get full steering throw from the car
and the nuts would not have to be reverse thread
to do this , if you do try this i recomend the most narrow
nut you can find . with really narrow nuts this would
probably work okay
sbmon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 07:35 AM   #5304
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: texas
Posts: 236
Default Re: Nuts fix = Camber fix

Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
Hey All, I came up with an idea from the makers of the FIX. I was wondering has anyone tried to put the nut from the toe FIX on the pivot balls that controll the camber, to stop the camber setting from becomming off set. If it would lock similar to the toe FIX, would this not solve the problem of the camber?

Let me konw your thoughts?

jason
The most simple solution that has been used in this case is to drill a small hole in the a-arm housing of the pivot balls and insert a set screw to hold the position. Good luck.

ps. no binding of the steering with this fix.
sook is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 09:45 AM   #5305
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

That's what I've done - works great.

and it hasn't seemed to weaken the arms at all - no pivot balls pulling out (in fact, when I've broken one PB, it broke LEAVING the portion that the set screw was touching. . .still got it out though) or arms breaking.

Simplest method is better. . .imho
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2003, 11:03 PM   #5306
Tech Addict
 
thefuzzclub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 704
Default

to all ntc3 owners,

i need better torque for our technical tight track.

my engine is novarossi s5
dynamite inline pipe (long manifold)
gearing: 21/27(pinion) 48/54(spur)

should i change my gearing to 20/24, 50/54 as recommended ny some or change my pipe to a shorter manifold like the rd logics or ae dual chamber?

your inputs please...
thefuzzclub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2003, 11:28 PM   #5307
Tech Addict
 
jscamry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oviedo,FL
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to jscamry Send a message via MSN to jscamry Send a message via Yahoo to jscamry Send a message via Skype™ to jscamry
Default foam tires

Hey all, I agree with racecar850. I too have bought foams from Tim, the same guy on ebay that sells the nitro shoes and ellegies. It took about a week to reach me in FL from HK, you just cant beat the prices, I plan to order some more tires in a few weeks...

J.
jscamry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2003, 02:28 AM   #5308
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by thefuzzclub
should i change my gearing to 20/24, 50/54 as recommended ny some or change my pipe to a shorter manifold like the rd logics or ae dual chamber?
Shorter manifold will give you higher rev, not better low end torque. Go with the 20/24 pinions. 21/27 is pretty tall. What track is this? High speed one? You may want to try 20/26 if you need to drive on a long high speed track.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2003, 02:37 AM   #5309
Tech Addict
 
thefuzzclub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 704
Smile

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Shorter manifold will give you higher rev, not better low end torque. Go with the 20/24 pinions. 21/27 is pretty tall. What track is this? High speed one? You may want to try 20/26 if you need to drive on a long high speed track.
its a small track and its technical, more on tight cornering not high speed, just one straight. i was about to buy the rd logics pipe, will try the gearing first, thanks
thefuzzclub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2003, 06:40 AM   #5310
Tech Apprentice
 
johnsoa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Deacon Of Speed
Posts: 73
Default K Factory CENTAX GEARING

Has anyone experienced gear mesh problems when using the K Factory centax with the following gearing:

21/27 pinion with a 48/54 spur

The problem I've experienced is that the diameter of 21 tooth pinion for the K Factory centax is a little too large, causing the gear mesh on the 27 pinion 48 spur to be way too loose. Actually the teeth on the 27/48 barely come together.

Actually the gear mesh problem occurs when using the 21 tooth pinion with in any combination.

I wrote Trinity and anticipate a response soon, Joel is usually pretty good at responding, but just wanted to canvass you guys to see if anyone besides me has experienced this problem.
johnsoa is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:22 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net