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Old 04-25-2014, 02:50 PM   #7201
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thanks mrgsr:

I have a x-ray nt-1, I purchased it used but the racer who sold it to me sold the x-ray clutch system (gears inclulded) with the motor to another person.

I have serpent clutch and clutch bell with gears from my old serpent. My local hobby shop has been trying to get a the parts, and new clutch sytem for three weeks (as of today nothing) but they have failed. I wanted to race this week end. Guess i will see if they will work together.

Thanks you Phil for the motor, hopefully I will to use it one day.
Carlton, talk with Zane he might have an extra clutch for sale. I have one for sale, but it is the older larger clutch.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:42 PM   #7202
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Typically you will only run any of these combos, light purple frt blue rr or red frt light purple rr. sometimes i liked light purple frt and rr. easy car to set up i think you will be happy start with 600cst all around prolly with 3 hole frt and 2 hole rear pistons
So...

After years of carefully assembling kits I decided to install the adjustable pistons in the shocks when I built them. I'm sure buried somewhere is this 700+ page thread is a passionate discussion about those adjustable pistons. Could anyone give me the readers digest version?
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:12 PM   #7203
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oops wrong thread
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Last edited by azeroth; 04-26-2014 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:27 PM   #7204
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So...

After years of carefully assembling kits I decided to install the adjustable pistons in the shocks when I built them. I'm sure buried somewhere is this 700+ page thread is a passionate discussion about those adjustable pistons. Could anyone give me the readers digest version?
sure, don't use them. they will eventually start to wear out and either get adjusted by mistake or adjust on their own. I think the most common setup is 2 hole front, 3 hole rear.
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:29 PM   #7205
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And also leaking oil shock very badly.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:21 AM   #7206
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And also leaking oil shock very badly.
Why would the non adjustable ones leak any less?
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:18 PM   #7207
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I need help understanding downstops vs droop. If I wanted to set up my NT1 per the stock setup sheet, it says to set front to 1 and rear to 4 on the droop blocks. Those numbers depend on the ride height and tire diameters right? If I set to 1 and 4 on the gauges, but had a 1 mm higher ride height than the stock set up, it would be completely different wouldn't it? Does everyone just measure how far the chassis rises before the wheels lift off? Do you do that every run? What good are the droop blocks then?

Thx
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:34 PM   #7208
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Originally Posted by mikedoo3 View Post
I need help understanding downstops vs droop. If I wanted to set up my NT1 per the stock setup sheet, it says to set front to 1 and rear to 4 on the droop blocks. Those numbers depend on the ride height and tire diameters right? If I set to 1 and 4 on the gauges, but had a 1 mm higher ride height than the stock set up, it would be completely different wouldn't it? Does everyone just measure how far the chassis rises before the wheels lift off? Do you do that every run? What good are the droop blocks then?

Thx
You use the downstop screws to adjust droop. Droop is a measure of how far the A-Arms ride below (or above) the level of the chassis. This is more easily measure with the tires removed but ultimately the tire size make no difference in the droop. You have to raise the chassis up high enough so that the A-Arms hang down as far as the downstop will allow them. Normally we put the droop blocks under the chassis and use a droop gauge to measure how low the arm drops although I have always measured under the rear upright.

What might be confusing you is this: Normally we set our ride height by adjusting the tension on the springs. With any give size tire we normally tighten the spring to get more ride height and loosen to give less. When the tires get too small, you can tighten and tighten that spring but if the A-arm has reached its max downtravel you have to adjust the downstop (add droop) to get more ride height. If this second paragraph has confused you then just re-read the first paragraph and ignore this.
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:31 PM   #7209
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Hi guys,
When you hold to lock both rear tyres and turn the front tyres forward with some force, will the front able to rotate? Mine able to rotate with tickling sound. Ive got some handling issue, strip the car to check and everything's is normal.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:49 AM   #7210
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sounds like a belt issue possibley a pulley could be a set of blown diff gears as well
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:54 PM   #7211
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Do you adjust the down stops every run as the tires get smaller though? I understand as the tires get smaller, you have to turn the shock collar to maintain the same ride height. When you do that, don't you have to adjust the down stop screws to maintain the same droop? I'm thinking of the uptravel value, but then I'm confused because the downstops make the arm stop at the same place every time, but the tire size makes the uptravel different. If I want to measure "2mm over ride height" droop, what good are the gauges other than to get both sides equal.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:32 PM   #7212
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sounds like a belt issue possibley a pulley could be a set of blown diff gears as well
Yup, that's the initial suspect, check all pulleys and open up the front diff to inspect, besides dirty diff oil, all in normal. Im just not sure was it normal to be able to rotate the front wheels with this manner
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:54 PM   #7213
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check the rear shaft i have had the set screw loosen and cause a simaliar issue
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:01 PM   #7214
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check the rear shaft i have had the set screw loosen and cause a simaliar issue
Guess I gotto strip the rear to inspect tonight, thanks
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:37 PM   #7215
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Are their any tips on maintaining bearings on an Xray? Just found one seized on the 2 speed shaft, do they require a regular drop of oil?

Thanks in advance
Andrew
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