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Old 10-21-2013, 03:59 AM   #7051
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I had a problem a few weeks ago. Car drove like a 2 wheel drive. Would spin out at every corner, come to find out that the front diff was blown. Rotate one wheel at a time to see if the whole drivetrain moves, also the diff should be smooth.
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Old 10-21-2013, 04:57 AM   #7052
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Originally Posted by NITTO550 View Post
I had a problem a few weeks ago. Car drove like a 2 wheel drive. Would spin out at every corner, come to find out that the front diff was blown. Rotate one wheel at a time to see if the whole drivetrain moves, also the diff should be smooth.
Using plastic gears can do that. It will also block the diff sometimes with little plastic pieces wich come off the gears and wander through the internals sometimes giving a spool fealing and freeing up again. Can drive you nuts if one doesn`t know.

Now you know.

PS no mugen anymore??? or wrong posttopic?
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:23 PM   #7053
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I like the washers. Set the nut tension at 0.3 to 0.4 and you will be good, but put on some thread lock cause with the washers it will tend to move to 0.0 if you don't.

Yellow shoe is my favorite in low and high traction. I find the washers and yellow to be very linear, responsive and consistent.
Thank you !
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:24 PM   #7054
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Not sure which is better, and never had as much power from my car as I did a few weeks ago with the med spring and red shoe.
Most people use the yellow and I did as well.
I'm going to stick with the setup I have now (red shoe/med spring) since I will pick hp over speed any day, especially on the tracks I race on.
I'm always told harder springs are better but like I said, my car was exactly the way I like it (hp wise) and faster then ever with the med/red shoe.
.7 gap med spring, red shoe and very little spring tension is how the guy set it and my car crazy fast especially off the line.
The guy that set it is a team driver (xray) and I wouldn't second guess his knowledge, so I went with it and it was perfect
Ok...one day I will try that setup to compare... !! Thanks..
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:53 PM   #7055
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Originally Posted by NITTO550 View Post
I had a problem a few weeks ago. Car drove like a 2 wheel drive. Would spin out at every corner, come to find out that the front diff was blown. Rotate one wheel at a time to see if the whole drivetrain moves, also the diff should be smooth.
It sounds like my car LOL. Good that you found your problem. Though I will rebuild both the diffs, I know it's unlikely that I have blown diffs cuz drive trains are totally fine when I tested both the diffs. I'll update you on that. Thanks
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:59 PM   #7056
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
1. With factory car setup, increase rear toe in, try 3 degree and 4 degree.
2. Make sure suspension arms are moving up and down freely.
3. Make sure tires are fresh ...... Always use fresh tires before playing or racing. Otherwise you will encounter poor car handling despite of already using factory setup.
4. Reduce End Point Adjustment in your radio transmitter.
Thank you for your advice. I think 4 toe in in the rear is a bit too extreme but it'd be a good comparison with current setup to see if it makes any difference. Will try that.
Arms are all free. Tires are fine.
I thought lowering EPA is same as lowering dual rate. Wrong?
Track width is 198.5 and 200 now.
I will try the rear toe and rebuild the diffs and update you. Could it be due to stretched rear belt? Rear wheels are running fine though and there's no skipping on the belt+pully mesh either.
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:40 AM   #7057
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Originally Posted by djiewie View Post
Using plastic gears can do that. It will also block the diff sometimes with little plastic pieces wich come off the gears and wander through the internals sometimes giving a spool fealing and freeing up again. Can drive you nuts if one doesn`t know.

Now you know.

PS no mugen anymore??? or wrong posttopic?


I don't usually post here ever since I switched to the 5, but I like to keep track of what's going on and help out whenever possible.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:58 AM   #7058
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Help with loose rear traction issue on outdoor asphalt track with low traction please. This is about NT1 2012.
So everything is basically default setup with the progressive springs that came with kit.
Issue: The car is not drivable. It looses traction entry and exit of corners all the time unless I go slow. It's just not loosing traction a bit like any situation but it spins if I turn the wheels more than 50%. I still can manage the car somewhat with a bit of bumping here and there but it makes the laptime real bad. Here are what I've already tried.
1. I lowered the roll center in the rear due to the oversteering but didn't help.
2. Removal of rear antiroll bar didn't help either
3. Softer tires(35/37 to 32/35) made no change.
4. tried different cambers but none succeded.
5. Rebuilt shocks thinking they might have leaked but same.
6. Tried light red and light purple springs but no different.
7. I lowered dual rate on steering to 75%. didn't matter..

So it's on and off power oversteer... I need help because I'm running out of options and idea...
Clutch spring's the usual medium, gap is usual at 0.7mm, shoe is white. Front roll center is 2nd from the lowest. The car was whole lot better earlier this year, took some time off due to my baby and came back with this sliding car..
Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
1. With factory car setup, increase rear toe in, try 3 degree and 4 degree.
2. Make sure suspension arms are moving up and down freely.
3. Make sure tires are fresh ...... Always use fresh tires before playing or racing. Otherwise you will encounter poor car handling despite of already using factory setup.
4. Reduce End Point Adjustment in your radio transmitter.
Found the cause. One of the side bearings on front diff case has been stuck with melted plastic from diff case and not functioning right. I don't know why I didn't feel it when I rotated each front wheels to test out the feel of the front diff earlier. Anyway, I took out the diff case, I still could rotate each outdrive cups by hand, but it's hard and gritty, so there I need to buy another diff case and bearing... Damn.. At least I know what the problem is and I know I need to check diffs more frequently..
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:37 AM   #7059
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Found the cause. One of the side bearings on front diff case has been stuck with melted plastic from diff case and not functioning right. I don't know why I didn't feel it when I rotated each front wheels to test out the feel of the front diff earlier. Anyway, I took out the diff case, I still could rotate each outdrive cups by hand, but it's hard and gritty, so there I need to buy another diff case and bearing... Damn.. At least I know what the problem is and I know I need to check diffs more frequently..
Glad you found the cause.

Xray ball bearings need regular maintenance by adding oil bearing lubricants, and also bearing replacement as soon as it feels gritty. You need to check all bearings usually after two or three races. Tips : lubricate bearings at two speed / disc brake shaft before raceday.
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:18 PM   #7060
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Glad you found the cause.

Xray ball bearings need regular maintenance by adding oil bearing lubricants, and also bearing replacement as soon as it feels gritty. You need to check all bearings usually after two or three races. Tips : lubricate bearings at two speed / disc brake shaft before raceday.
Yeah I agree. And I do regularly put bearing oil to all visible and reachable bearings every race. But apparently the diff bearings are not ones of them LOL. I was just appalled to find its cause because I've spent so much time and effort to try to figure out the problem and nobody could point it out when I asked around at the track. Well of course I need to try the car on the track this weekend but I'm pretty sure I fixed it. I just should be more diligent on maintaining diffs and bearings I guess. Now I understand why even some guys keep a full set of extra bearings for their car.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:03 PM   #7061
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Still using front diffs? Spool is the,only way baby !!! Or you can switch to a Ntc3.1 ....
Quote:
Originally Posted by NITTO550 View Post
I had a problem a few weeks ago. Car drove like a 2 wheel drive. Would spin out at every corner, come to find out that the front diff was blown. Rotate one wheel at a time to see if the whole drivetrain moves, also the diff should be smooth.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:33 PM   #7062
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Glad you found the cause.

Xray ball bearings need regular maintenance by adding oil bearing lubricants, and also bearing replacement as soon as it feels gritty. You need to check all bearings usually after two or three races. Tips : lubricate bearings at two speed / disc brake shaft before raceday.
I lubed my 2 speed bearings before a qualifier and it spayed oil throughout my hub and wouldnt shift.

If you lube a 2 speed bearing within the 2 speed hub, best to fire up the car, spin up the hub, pull it down and clean up any residue.

We live and learn.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:12 PM   #7063
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I lubed my 2 speed bearings before a qualifier and it spayed oil throughout my hub and wouldnt shift.

If you lube a 2 speed bearing within the 2 speed hub, best to fire up the car, spin up the hub, pull it down and clean up any residue.

We live and learn.
Very good point. I had the same problem too. Nowdays, I put one way lube on the bearing, install gear, spin the gear by hand a few turns, take it out, wipe out the excess and put it back.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:43 AM   #7064
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the 2 speed bearing i never lube. The only one. once the 2-speed shoe`s are greasy its a pain to get them clean. Not worth it.
After 2 years i just replace it. It will last that long or the bearingholder is worn also.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:13 AM   #7065
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I have never lubed any of my 2 speed bearing either . just replace if needed on any of my cars
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