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Old 05-21-2014, 12:58 AM   #7216
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I try and clean and re oil the bearing almost weekly ocasionally one will be crunchy depending on run time after a big event weekend or a long practice day for sure but it only put 10 minutes no but will check and make sure everything is free now clutch bearings every run each qualifier or main or practice round
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:34 PM   #7217
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I try and clean and re oil the bearing almost weekly ocasionally one will be crunchy depending on run time after a big event weekend or a long practice day for sure but it only put 10 minutes no but will check and make sure everything is free now clutch bearings every run each qualifier or main or practice round
Thanks,

Car has only done two club meets, so not a lot of running.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:22 PM   #7218
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Does anyone know if the Capricorn fuel tank grommets (Cap-14029) are better then the Xray (Xy338685) ones? I swear as soon as you mount the tank the Xray split into two and they should be replaced again.
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:18 PM   #7219
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I was over the stock grommets a while ago, I found that you an use a small on that fits snug over the screw between the tank and top deck, then go one size up with a counter sunk screw and that holds the tank securely with the rubber insulator of the o ring. less than a buck at the hardware store....
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:22 PM   #7220
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Default Short (2013) or long (2014) shocks

Hi

What do you think about the difference in witch to use in what conditions? We race with free tyres,no additive. My opinion is to use the short ones. We raced this weekend and the car was just better balanced on the short ones
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:46 PM   #7221
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Last edited by Bundy_Bear; 05-29-2014 at 10:48 PM. Reason: double post :(
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:46 PM   #7222
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Re: Legal weight

Might be an obvious question, but how do you factor in tyre wear when you are trying get the overall weight of the car as close as possible to the minimum weight. I weighed my NT1 pro today and it is about 1755g with race ready tyres on it.

Thanks in advance
Andrew
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:25 PM   #7223
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Re: Legal weight

Might be an obvious question, but how do you factor in tyre wear when you are trying get the overall weight of the car as close as possible to the minimum weight. I weighed my NT1 pro today and it is about 1755g with race ready tyres on it.

Thanks in advance
Andrew
Andrew, best thing you can do, next time you have used up an old set of tires, true them down so there is zero foam left (ie, it's all plastic, no foam).

Use these rims to:

1. Weigh your car to keep it close to the legal weight - Weighing the car with no foam left is the safest way to make sure you don't fall below the minimum weight.

2. Use it to adjust ride height - I set my car up to 1mm front and 1.5mm rear on these rims

3. Use it to adjust body height - So you can cut and sit the body as close as you can to the ground

4. Use it to adjust droop - easier and more accurate.
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:26 AM   #7224
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Andrew, best thing you can do, next time you have used up an old set of tires, true them down so there is zero foam left (ie, it's all plastic, no foam).

Use these rims to:

1. Weigh your car to keep it close to the legal weight - Weighing the car with no foam left is the safest way to make sure you don't fall below the minimum weight.

2. Use it to adjust ride height - I set my car up to 1mm front and 1.5mm rear on these rims

3. Use it to adjust body height - So you can cut and sit the body as close as you can to the ground

4. Use it to adjust droop - easier and more accurate.
Michael:

Thank you, I will do this. Would their be much weigh difference between full and worn tyres? Would have thought 15-20g, but maybe I am way out. I have added 100g copper battery tray, If I remove it on used tyres I will be under 1650g I reckon.

Thanks again,
Andrew
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Old 05-30-2014, 02:12 AM   #7225
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Hello, foam on a tire can be about 50-60g per set, depending how big you start.
This is how i am doing it:

i.e. you start with 62 in the rear for qualification,
you know your tire wear in a 5min run is 2.5mm, so you come in with
59,5mm in the rear.

I am using tires with a diameter of 56mm for minimum weight calculation in qualification. For finals i am allways useing blank rims
Dont forget: there a massive weight differences between rims, carbon rims are much lighter than the plastic ones from a controlled tire, so make sure you are doing it with the same rim you are useing later in the race.
Also make sure you control weight with a clean shell and car as there can also be about 8g and a fully empty tank.

Greetings
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:34 PM   #7226
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Default bleeding the aluminum shocks

I can't get less than 100% rebound with the aluminum shocks without air getting in. I've read some suggestions all over the place but I'm not having any luck.

I'm running the aluminum shocks with 1 o-ring. If I get less than 100% rebound, the shock feels like crap, air and squishy sounds. I've tried moving the shock shaft very slow, I've tried only compression then tightening the cap and then pulling the shaft back out, etc. I've tried holding the shock upside down while doing it. I tried a shock cap with a hole drilled and even that had rebound.

I also have a set of the plastic shocks and I am able to set the rebound per the instructions with no problem at all.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:15 PM   #7227
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I can't get less than 100% rebound with the aluminum shocks without air getting in. I've read some suggestions all over the place but I'm not having any luck.

I'm running the aluminum shocks with 1 o-ring. If I get less than 100% rebound, the shock feels like crap, air and squishy sounds. I've tried moving the shock shaft very slow, I've tried only compression then tightening the cap and then pulling the shaft back out, etc. I've tried holding the shock upside down while doing it. I tried a shock cap with a hole drilled and even that had rebound.

I also have a set of the plastic shocks and I am able to set the rebound per the instructions with no problem at all.
Then run the plastic ones.
Imo they're better. Try them both if you have them, I'll bet you like the plastic better
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:20 PM   #7228
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Had anyone tried XR-304931 graphite gear diff set in NT1 diffs? Early marketing when they where announced indicated they were suitable for the NT1, but now it only mentions To electric.

Thanks in advance!
Andrew
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:48 PM   #7229
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Then run the plastic ones.
Imo they're better. Try them both if you have them, I'll bet you like the plastic better
yeah I think I'm gonna run the plastic. I have plenty of spare shock bodies in case I do break one. It just seems to me that everyone has problems with the aluminum shocks, something is wrong with that picture. I can get the aluminums to have a fairly soft 100% rebound, it just bugs me that they don't work right.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:27 PM   #7230
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I have been running the T4 plastic diff gears, they are awesome, no sign of wear, and never had any issue.

I only run them on the front diff.
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