Yeah I had exactly same problem a few months ago LOL. But I cleaned the bearing like 1000 times and removed the oil as well. I thought the one way might have fried but it seems just fine.
And like I said, the shoe is brand new and I rechecked the balance between the screws many times. So I know it's not from it. I'll keep working on it and let you know the result.

Hm... Not sure if the preload is slipping because everytime I checked the clutch over time, it has been always the same and had the same depth. Maybe the clutch spring is done? But I don't understand why the spring might be done already since it's fairly new. I'll try to put new spring and update you. Thanks!

I know sometimes its hard to think that a brand new part used 1-3x is worn out. Clutch springs, I'd think would last pretty long but I started realizing that they don't.
I recently watched DJ apolaros clutch building video, it's a good one. He measures his spring and when the measurement is .3mm smaller he chucks it. If you think about it, depending on how much preload, that can be less than 5 runs

So Ok I understand that. So do u think the spring might have caused the problem?? I'll try w the new spring anyway.

1-contaminated shoes with oil is really hard to clean, rub them on a cloth and be sure no grease is showing after rubbing.
2- gap between the shoes and the second gear holder needs adjusting.
screw the scrubs to where the shoes grip the holder and then release both scrubscrews a half turn.
3- make sure the engine is tuned right with the right highrevs

4- get help from one of the guy`s;)

Not sure. Wish I could help

Joe, could you post the link to dj vid about the spring.
can`t find it.

- Yeah I should probably harass one of the big boys.

I just rebuilt the engine, broke in again halfway, and I think the car's exactly same :((( But not 100% sure since I couldn't finish breaking in (in the night, in the garage). I'll finish it and update this Sunday.

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Is this the one you have been looking for.......

www.youtube.com/watch?v=foVAoXy8TbE#t=1004

What type if engine are you running and at what temp. I know with my pico if i am at under 230 the car will not shift because it is not hitting the needed revs. When the engine is hitting 260/270 then it will shift.

Take a picture of the inside of your second gear and the clutch shoe and let's see if there is anything noticeable about it. Thanks!

Also your not judging whether or not the car is shifting based upon it sitting on a box and revving it are you?

Its on the capricorn America website and you tube but I dont know how to post the link, sorry

Thats it

Thanks, real good vid of how to do it good (just like i do it:D). Learned how to check the pins and clutch plate.:)

It's O.S. XZ engine. Again I can't say 100% that it's having the same problem after I re built the engine yet cuz, as you mentioned, I only broke in the engine halfway in the garage last night and didn't involve running the car on the ground. Today, I'll lay down the car on the ground and try it to see the problem still exists.
Obviously last night, the engine was not even 160 degrees when I was breaking in. Another reason I can't say the problem still exists. I'll update you tonight.
I'll take a picture and post it here to see if you can notice any. I may not be a beginner but not an expert either so hopefully you guys can notice something that I don't see. I checked this and that so many times already that I don't even know if I want to keep this car LOL.

Did you replace the P/S after you came across the problem? Or was it a brand new engine 1/2 broken in?
Im not a veteran yet but I can tell you 160 isn't near hot enough for a new engine to switch to 2nd. Also if your expecting the engine to switch during the first 10 tanks of break in, it most likely will not nor should it cause its bad for break in. After the first bottle of fuel you should then start tightening the hs needle introducing it to temps over 200 degrees. During most of the first bottle you should be around 190-200 degrees and not switching at all. The 2nd bottle is when you start leaning it and starting to see some of the engines potential.
That is how I break in my engines and all of my engines haven't disappointed me the least bit. Others will say different and have their own way, but im not rich and would like my engines to last as long as possible.
Again during break in it shouldn't switch for the first 7-10 tanks at all. If it does, don't let it and richen it s little.
Thats just my opinion and the way I do my break in