Originally Posted by NITTO550 (Post 12650520)

I had a problem a few weeks ago. Car drove like a 2 wheel drive. Would spin out at every corner, come to find out that the front diff was blown. Rotate one wheel at a time to see if the whole drivetrain moves, also the diff should be smooth.

Originally Posted by HHH (Post 12647537)

I like the washers. Set the nut tension at 0.3 to 0.4 and you will be good, but put on some thread lock cause with the washers it will tend to move to 0.0 if you don't.

Yellow shoe is my favorite in low and high traction. I find the washers and yellow to be very linear, responsive and consistent.

Originally Posted by JOE SI (Post 12645866)

Not sure which is better, and never had as much power from my car as I did a few weeks ago with the med spring and red shoe.
Most people use the yellow and I did as well.
I'm going to stick with the setup I have now (red shoe/med spring) since I will pick hp over speed any day, especially on the tracks I race on.
I'm always told harder springs are better but like I said, my car was exactly the way I like it (hp wise) and faster then ever with the med/red shoe.
.7 gap med spring, red shoe and very little spring tension is how the guy set it and my car crazy fast especially off the line.
The guy that set it is a team driver (xray) and I wouldn't second guess his knowledge, so I went with it and it was perfect

Originally Posted by NITTO550 (Post 12650520)

I had a problem a few weeks ago. Car drove like a 2 wheel drive. Would spin out at every corner, come to find out that the front diff was blown. Rotate one wheel at a time to see if the whole drivetrain moves, also the diff should be smooth.

Originally Posted by asw7576 (Post 12650443)

1. With factory car setup, increase rear toe in, try 3 degree and 4 degree.
2. Make sure suspension arms are moving up and down freely.
3. Make sure tires are fresh ...... Always use fresh tires before playing or racing. Otherwise you will encounter poor car handling despite of already using factory setup.
4. Reduce End Point Adjustment in your radio transmitter.

Originally Posted by djiewie (Post 12650584)

Using plastic gears can do that. It will also block the diff sometimes with little plastic pieces wich come off the gears and wander through the internals sometimes giving a spool fealing and freeing up again. Can drive you nuts if one doesn`t know.

Now you know.;)

PS no mugen anymore??? or wrong posttopic?

Originally Posted by snuvet75 (Post 12650386)

Help with loose rear traction issue on outdoor asphalt track with low traction please. This is about NT1 2012.
So everything is basically default setup with the progressive springs that came with kit.
Issue: The car is not drivable. It looses traction entry and exit of corners all the time unless I go slow. It's just not loosing traction a bit like any situation but it spins if I turn the wheels more than 50%. I still can manage the car somewhat with a bit of bumping here and there but it makes the laptime real bad. Here are what I've already tried.
1. I lowered the roll center in the rear due to the oversteering but didn't help.
2. Removal of rear antiroll bar didn't help either
3. Softer tires(35/37 to 32/35) made no change.
4. tried different cambers but none succeded.
5. Rebuilt shocks thinking they might have leaked but same.
6. Tried light red and light purple springs but no different.
7. I lowered dual rate on steering to 75%. didn't matter..

So it's on and off power oversteer... I need help because I'm running out of options and idea...
Clutch spring's the usual medium, gap is usual at 0.7mm, shoe is white. Front roll center is 2nd from the lowest. The car was whole lot better earlier this year, took some time off due to my baby and came back with this sliding car..

Originally Posted by asw7576 (Post 12650443)

1. With factory car setup, increase rear toe in, try 3 degree and 4 degree.
2. Make sure suspension arms are moving up and down freely.
3. Make sure tires are fresh ...... Always use fresh tires before playing or racing. Otherwise you will encounter poor car handling despite of already using factory setup.
4. Reduce End Point Adjustment in your radio transmitter.

Originally Posted by snuvet75 (Post 12658335)

Found the cause. One of the side bearings on front diff case has been stuck with melted plastic from diff case and not functioning right. I don't know why I didn't feel it when I rotated each front wheels to test out the feel of the front diff earlier. Anyway, I took out the diff case, I still could rotate each outdrive cups by hand, but it's hard and gritty, so there I need to buy another diff case and bearing... Damn.. At least I know what the problem is and I know I need to check diffs more frequently..

Originally Posted by asw7576 (Post 12658652)

Glad you found the cause.

Xray ball bearings need regular maintenance by adding oil bearing lubricants, and also bearing replacement as soon as it feels gritty. You need to check all bearings usually after two or three races. Tips : lubricate bearings at two speed / disc brake shaft before raceday.

Originally Posted by NITTO550 (Post 12650520)

I had a problem a few weeks ago. Car drove like a 2 wheel drive. Would spin out at every corner, come to find out that the front diff was blown. Rotate one wheel at a time to see if the whole drivetrain moves, also the diff should be smooth.

Originally Posted by asw7576 (Post 12658652)

Glad you found the cause.

Xray ball bearings need regular maintenance by adding oil bearing lubricants, and also bearing replacement as soon as it feels gritty. You need to check all bearings usually after two or three races. Tips : lubricate bearings at two speed / disc brake shaft before raceday.

Originally Posted by blis (Post 12659628)

I lubed my 2 speed bearings before a qualifier and it spayed oil throughout my hub and wouldnt shift.

If you lube a 2 speed bearing within the 2 speed hub, best to fire up the car, spin up the hub, pull it down and clean up any residue.

We live and learn.