Not much action here on this thread, so here's another dumb question! How do u adjust gear mesh if there's no slots on the bottom of the chassis to slide the engine mount farther or closer to the spurs?

There `s no chuch thing like a dumb question , only dumb answers:D

Xray are the only brand ( i think:rolleyes:)who have a system where the engine is adjusted/meshed with the engine bolts once. After that all spurs and pinions are the same diam.
So you can change it without moving the engine. It will mesh.

Its great.:D

I had this issue too. All you have to do is tighten the screws one by one. You can actually apply a little force to the engine to bring the pinions closer or further away to get the desired mesh. I tried a few different motors some mesh easily and some need a little help.

Kyosho also uses 0.8 module gears.

Anybody need front cvd's? http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-hudy-cvd.html

Wanted to post some pics of my car all ready for the Euro's in Austria next month but f#%ked if I could work out how to do it!!

Need some suggestions on how to get rid of an off power push on corner entry. My next step is to narrow out the rear track width from 200 to 199, 198. Add more droop in the rear to make the front dive more?
Just a question, does anyone run dive or anti dive? or is it just not possible because only the upper arm will be angled I'm front?

How about changing tires combination ?

Front : 35
Rear : 40 or 42

Did you try one of the below?

• Soften front spring
• Softer front Diff oil
• Change Caster
• Use more front camber
• Change Toe
• make front more flex
• etc....

I'm running 35 front and 37 rears.

Had a softer front spring the week before and lighter diff oil in front also.
Changed caster to less and helped a little
Front camber is at 2.5 left and right
Didn't mess with front toe since I'm at 1* right now
How can I make front flex more without cutting top deck?

Try 1.5 on the toe an 32/37 on the tires.....srs body by protoform give u more steering....

If you don't have the new top deck and you don't want to cut it you can't.
Or you can cut it and save the carbon part in order when you want to reinstall it.

Remove toe from rear
If your track is high traction change to P37 otherwise use SRS.
You can change to 2013 chassis gives you more steering.
Change front and rear roll centers
Also changing front droop can help you, less is better in on power.

Also file attached can help you in most cases.

Hope those things will be useful.

I think I would go with 35 and 40 combination,

However, if you wish to keep your current 35 and 37 tires combination, I think reducing rear track width 199 or 198 , or reducing rear toe-in, is good idea too.

Definitely less rear toe, going to do that along with rear track width. Also think it was the track that particular day since I wasn't the only one experiencing this. I like a lot of steering, coming from a kyosho RRR, that steered like a mofo