Kyosho V-ONE RRR Evo
#541
Tech Elite
Originally Posted by Sp Racer
Nah, started off as a RRR "Evo" , then they swapped over the top deck and fitted the new spool...as soon as the grip came up and cars traction rolled, everyone swapped over to the laydown servo.
#542
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
Front or rear??
#543
Originally Posted by dameetz
Has anyone of you tried the SP rear shock tower (VZW 207)? What is the diffence in handling did you notice? From what I can see it has got blue anodized rear bearing cover comes together with it, and the rear inner camber link pivot ball sits upwards instead of towards the front, and it has got 3 holes instead of 5 holes(EVO). Is this better? And what is the effect of having 2mm spacer under the pivot ball?
#544
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I would say, that you would probably be better off with the RRR EVO part or this one The VZW207 requires that you modify the camber link ends for proper suspension travel, which is a pain to get perfect. The 2mm spacer allows you to raise or lower the roll center. You can pretty much to the same adjustment with either parts, it's just a matter of how you do it.
My car is setup similar to the pic from the previous page.
#545
Originally Posted by jag
Have you tried that KM part yet?
The VZW207 offers a lot of flexibility - way more than the RRR Evo or KM part for very fine adjustments, but it just really depends on what a person's requirements are and how much time and effort they can put into making the adjustments. I still have a lot more testing to do with the VZW207 and it is a good part, but the hassle factor for filing that camber link is a big negative for me - especially if you have to do it between heats. It's definitely a custom fit and you actally need to prep a few camber links in advance in case it needs to be replaced. Kyosho really should have a special part for it.
#546
I also have VZW207 as i was told the shock-tower was stronger, but after a few races the carbon layers where getting loose I put some glue between the layers but after last race the layers at the rear are broken so its now a very flexible shock-tower. Is there something i can do to avoid this splitting of the carbon?
#547
Originally Posted by Ice_nl
I also have VZW207 as i was told the shock-tower was stronger, but after a few races the carbon layers where getting loose I put some glue between the layers but after last race the layers at the rear are broken so its now a very flexible shock-tower. Is there something i can do to avoid this splitting of the carbon?
#548
Tech Elite
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Location: Cebu City, Philippines and Ocala, Florida, USA
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Originally Posted by Ice_nl
I also have VZW207 as i was told the shock-tower was stronger, but after a few races the carbon layers where getting loose I put some glue between the layers but after last race the layers at the rear are broken so its now a very flexible shock-tower. Is there something i can do to avoid this splitting of the carbon?
#549
Tech Elite
Guys need help here. I do have problem with my V1RRR Evo, understeer on, off power. Seem too much grip at rear. My current setting is:-
Front/Rear
Dif - Oneway/ 10K - sometime 30K
Shock oil- 40/40
Shock Position - mid/mid
Spring- RRR Evo blue spring front/rear
Swaybar- 0°/45°
Tires - 38/43 - Did used 40 at rear it make more understeer
Downstop - 0/4mm
Tires Dia - 62/64
Trackwidth- 199/200
Ride Height- 6.5-7.5
Camber- 1.5/3
Toe- 1/-2.5
Body- Mazda 6
Track Traction - mid
Anything wrong here? I start thinking to change back to laydown servo where i got hang on it. Welcome and Thanks for your opinion
Front/Rear
Dif - Oneway/ 10K - sometime 30K
Shock oil- 40/40
Shock Position - mid/mid
Spring- RRR Evo blue spring front/rear
Swaybar- 0°/45°
Tires - 38/43 - Did used 40 at rear it make more understeer
Downstop - 0/4mm
Tires Dia - 62/64
Trackwidth- 199/200
Ride Height- 6.5-7.5
Camber- 1.5/3
Toe- 1/-2.5
Body- Mazda 6
Track Traction - mid
Anything wrong here? I start thinking to change back to laydown servo where i got hang on it. Welcome and Thanks for your opinion
#550
I would say... Try 40 shore in front. If that doesn't work, go 20K or 30K rear diff. Have you tried running 40s on all fours?
#551
Tech Elite
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I would say... Try 40 shore in front. If that doesn't work, go 20K or 30K rear diff. Have you tried running 40s on all fours?
#552
Originally Posted by esham
Guys need help here. I do have problem with my V1RRR Evo, understeer on, off power. Seem too much grip at rear. My current setting is:-
Front/Rear
Dif - Oneway/ 10K - sometime 30K
Shock oil- 40/40
Shock Position - mid/mid
Spring- RRR Evo blue spring front/rear
Swaybar- 0°/45°
Tires - 38/43 - Did used 40 at rear it make more understeer
Downstop - 0/4mm
Tires Dia - 62/64
Trackwidth- 199/200
Ride Height- 6.5-7.5
Camber- 1.5/3
Toe- 1/-2.5
Body- Mazda 6
Track Traction - mid
Anything wrong here? I start thinking to change back to laydown servo where i got hang on it. Welcome and Thanks for your opinion
Front/Rear
Dif - Oneway/ 10K - sometime 30K
Shock oil- 40/40
Shock Position - mid/mid
Spring- RRR Evo blue spring front/rear
Swaybar- 0°/45°
Tires - 38/43 - Did used 40 at rear it make more understeer
Downstop - 0/4mm
Tires Dia - 62/64
Trackwidth- 199/200
Ride Height- 6.5-7.5
Camber- 1.5/3
Toe- 1/-2.5
Body- Mazda 6
Track Traction - mid
Anything wrong here? I start thinking to change back to laydown servo where i got hang on it. Welcome and Thanks for your opinion
#553
hmm
like mentioned i would flatten the sway bar first & try it out but try one step at a time like in ROBERTS Post see how it works out send back some results good luck
#554
Tech Elite
rmdhawaii,robert,soloartist...hei, thanks man. i will give a try and how it turn up.
#555
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cebu City, Philippines and Ocala, Florida, USA
Posts: 3,840
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
v1rrr evo
finally the stuff that i ordered arrived. can't wait to install them
kfactory aluminum servo mounts and special rear mount
kfactory aluminum servo mounts and special rear mount