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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 04-04-2016, 05:28 PM
  #226  
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Fenton, as I said in the other thread, you don't need everything to upgrade your kit to a tki4. Many of those parts don't actually "help" the car be faster, stick with the front hubs, arms, wing mount, pin holder, rear hubs and maybe the new 19 degree front c hub and akerarm plate. I have 5 Kyosho Mp9's, two upgraded with everything I mentioned accept the akerarm plate (one 19 degree the other 16 degree) and one new tki4, the upgrades compared to the new kit I could not really tell any difference. The non upgraded tki3's I could tell a difference with the upgrade and kit. I mean really buying a new tank and tank stay?? both 125cc tanks I think why waste the money. Just get the essential upgrades, then later on as things break or wear out get the rest. BTW I run Lundsford steering rods that are 1mm shorter than stock TKI3 which means I have about 5mm shorter than the tki4 and there are no issues
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:31 PM
  #227  
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan
Yep
Thanks.

I started w/ the box setup and although traction was very minimal during my day of break in, I slowly moved to Cody King and Elliott Boots NEO setups. The only thing I did not get to were the shocks (switching to the 1.2x8's).

I tried the 1.5's a couple of times last year and liked them, but I need to see how the TKI4 handles the 1.2's...
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:56 PM
  #228  
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Mine turned up today. OS B2101 Speed Combo and 2 x KO PROPO servos.. cant wait to get it together and run this weekend.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-img_3417.jpg  
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:32 PM
  #229  
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Can the corner speed gains be pin pointed to the new knuckles? Or what? Looking to pop a couple tki4 parts on my 3. Thinking arms, knuckles and wing stay.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:10 PM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by ROSCOE
Can the corner speed gains be pin pointed to the new knuckles? Or what? Looking to pop a couple tki4 parts on my 3. Thinking arms, knuckles and wing stay.
i think its a combination of things, doubt the knuckles on their own would do it.

im building a tki4 for nitro and converting my tki3 to electric, at a minimum to get the same feel as the tki4 i ordered ackerman plate, knuckles, FR hinge pin holder (b block), arms, wing/mount and steering rods.
it already has the HD servo saver.
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Old 04-05-2016, 02:37 AM
  #231  
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Nice testrace between french drivers Rayan Medjoubi with his new TK4 nitro and the TLR e of Thomas Musso

https://youtu.be/6vdIh5F98h4
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:23 PM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
i think its a combination of things, doubt the knuckles on their own would do it.

im building a tki4 for nitro and converting my tki3 to electric, at a minimum to get the same feel as the tki4 i ordered ackerman plate, knuckles, FR hinge pin holder (b block), arms, wing/mount and steering rods.
it already has the HD servo saver.
it is mainly the knuckles, pin holder and akerarm plate, and wing. I am using the stock steering rods on my conversions, and Monty Houston ran his stock steering arms and had no issues. I did order the longer rods just because i am not as some and bump a few things here and there. But seriously the new top center diff late, fuel filter holder and air filter holder really don't have anything to do with speed, the front arms being wider means you put the inserts on the inside, this means it is the same width as before but they are stronger so I feel it is important, bigger rod ends though? I have never broke a rod end with my tki3 and trust me I have made some huge mistakes. With the Tki4 I really do like all the "extra" little things as it really made it nicer, but for racing and upgrading just the suspension parts up front and the wing I feel are the most important, they have the two hole 410 rear hub that doesn't take bushings which should be the same. Don't get me wrong, I like the look of the TKI4 better than the upgraded tki3's but the feel with the front suspension changed there is no difference, and btw i don't have the akerarm plates on my upgrades, just arms, wing, pin holder and hubs
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:46 AM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by ROSCOE
Can the corner speed gains be pin pointed to the new knuckles? Or what? Looking to pop a couple tki4 parts on my 3. Thinking arms, knuckles and wing stay.
The change in front skid angle and inner hinge width is HUGE
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:35 AM
  #234  
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Can you get a season out of your diffs before having to replace them? Heard the gears wear fast
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rosko
Can you get a season out of your diffs before having to replace them? Heard the gears wear fast
I have not replaced any diffs, only one pinion gear and it wasn't really that bad. I have changed a spur gear a couple of times
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:00 AM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by houston
The change in front skid angle and inner hinge width is HUGE
Hey thanks! I may need to get a set of hinge plates. I know my m2c FR lower plate has a degree or so of anti dive adjustment but not sure how the hole up on the m2c rear plate compares to the tki4 plate.

Thanks for the info guys.
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:51 PM
  #237  
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Cannot make ride height below 30mm. 0mm spring preload and enough droop.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-p20160407_104056944_bc3dc9a9-4da0-4699-bdc0-d78de6b0187a.jpg   Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-p20160407_104103915_7085cb78-52ba-4dbb-a709-213d1b5a24a6.jpg   Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-p20160407_104011774_f779faf8-1b03-4f61-8530-2e2c14e3e734.jpg   Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-p20160407_103854386_d8fbffe4-1685-4901-aa50-16eb5ff0a98c.jpg  

Last edited by xtaiji; 04-06-2016 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:17 PM
  #238  
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remove and fully compress the springs a few times, they will bed in after your first run.
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Old 04-07-2016, 06:03 AM
  #239  
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Jeromerc what Fusion engine are you running? I just got a 7port ceramic. And was wondering if you ran this in the mp9 or the 5port. I can't find much info on them anywhere. On their website looks like they are outta Australia via Novarossi. He dude claimed to get killer run time with it.
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Old 04-07-2016, 02:46 PM
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Guys. First time building the k car (tki4) after running mugen for the past 3 years and I'm having issues with the centre diff out drives rubbing/binding against the brake pads. Is this normal - seems to be severely effecting the drive train. Note: I have used the correct out drives.
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