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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 04-28-2016, 08:17 AM
  #376  
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Actually no, these weren't hard crashes.... Simply track was hard packed, blue groove and you have to pitch the car in the air to land side ways... I didn't say I was giving up on the car yet... Just didn't expect this look of the car after one weekend.... I have top vehicles since 92 so I know what I am doing when building and racing them. Speaking of the pins.... Does kyosho offer a replacement for the drive pins? One positive I will say about the vehicle, very responsive on setup changes, can make look scratched up however nothing is loose, meaning arms and steering are all tight like was new at least. And I planned as parts wore out or replace with the hard coated parts for a better over look. Even YK has on his cars the hard coated parts... Still not sure why not included in the kits... Anyways I digress...
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:55 PM
  #377  
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people suggesting the MP9 is more fragile than the best buggies out there need to question their driving, seriously

it's just as strong as a Mugen or Xray, I ran the 3 brands in racing and never broke a single part on my two MP9 TKI3 (raced them both in electric and nitro)

it doesn't matter if the crash looks impressive or hard or whatever.. it's the angle of attack that matters! you can be slow and break because the angle of attack was bad or you can be fast and provoke an impressive crash without even breaking anything

concerning the anodization it's just cosmetics and has nothing to do with the function of the car.. if you want a car that is always nice looking buy a traxxas X0-1 and start doing speed runs rather than racing off-road

there will be complaints no matter what, but I'm extremely demanding myself and no other buggy is better overall than the MP9.. NONE of them.. and I'm not even a Kyosho fanboy.. I ran almost all brands but Y.Kanai nailed it from the start with the MP9 geometry and just made his buggy better and better since 2009, resulting in the TKI4

you just bought this buggy? now you can focus on your driving! eventually you will become good enough to stop breaking parts

Last edited by Pulse_; 04-28-2016 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:25 PM
  #378  
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I was a kysoho fanboy until the 777 came out. This was a bad car, difficult to drive. I regret i ever bought it :-( After that i have ran several cars from Mugen, yes, i am a Mugen fanboy too.. Xray-not for me, Losi, Crono, yes, even the Crono cars was better than the 777... ( actually the Crono RS3 was a seriously fast car!!)

Now, i am bak on the Kysoho bandwagen and i just drives extreamly good unless your on a extreamly highbite track. The anodising thing bugs me too. Why is several parts gun metal when the spareparts you buy is hard coated? It just does not make sense..
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:41 PM
  #379  
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Originally Posted by am
I was a kysoho fanboy until the 777 came out. This was a bad car, difficult to drive. I regret i ever bought it :-( After that i have ran several cars from Mugen, yes, i am a Mugen fanboy too.. Xray-not for me, Losi, Crono, yes, even the Crono cars was better than the 777... ( actually the Crono RS3 was a seriously fast car!!)

Now, i am bak on the Kysoho bandwagen and i just drives extreamly good unless your on a extreamly highbite track. The anodising thing bugs me too. Why is several parts gun metal when the spareparts you buy is hard coated? It just does not make sense..
if this is the only complain about the TKI4 I'm fine

you can't blame Kysoho for making money, they could have taken the same path as other brands and come out every year with another buggy just to feed the demand.. but they don't! so you can keep your Kyosho and improve it through the years by just changing parts that wear and not be lost with drastic handling changes from one generation to the other.. this way the MP9 can also keep its value on the used market

if you're being loyal with Kyosho you can just compliment this approach because it is the most beneficial to the drivers.. people say it's too expensive I answer it might actually be the least expensive in the long run for the reasons mentioned above.. and btw hard coated parts aren't needed to make the buggy faster or stronger
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Old 04-28-2016, 03:03 PM
  #380  
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What hard coated parts that are sold for the TKI4 that is not in the kit now?

thank you
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:16 PM
  #381  
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Originally Posted by houston
Curious .....what difference does it make if the chassis maintains its anodizing?


this is true?
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:38 PM
  #382  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
What hard coated parts that are sold for the TKI4 that is not in the kit now?

thank you
its really just the chassis and shock towers.

you can replace all the steel ball ends/shock stand-offs with the hard coated aluminium also.
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:12 PM
  #383  
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OK thank you
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:36 PM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by roblupo
Speaking of the pins.... Does kyosho offer a replacement for the drive pins?
this has been answered countless times in the mp9 thread.
short answer no, kyosho dont sell the pins, you have to buy KYOIF144 and push the pins out and insert those into your universals.
one extra step but its easy to do.

i normally buy like 8 or so sets and push out all the pins and keep them in a ziploc ready for when i need them
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:15 PM
  #385  
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Hard packed track or not, it is dependent on driving style. Not every buggy made for everyone. I ran my Mp9 at Nats, Sworkz and the Labor day shootout in 80 degree weather at Amain (Hard packed blue groove) I can say that I am not the best driver and still did not break anything. Not even a arm.

Also, I am not sure where you folks are shopping, but my Tki4 did not cost 900 bucks! if you cannot afford it, that is fine. Plenty of other buggies out there for ya but you may end up spending as much to upgrade IE folks that run Kyosho shocks and springs lol

Last edited by bucket2772; 04-28-2016 at 06:20 PM. Reason: spell check
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:50 PM
  #386  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
this has been answered countless times in the mp9 thread.
short answer no, kyosho dont sell the pins, you have to buy KYOIF144 and push the pins out and insert those into your universals.
one extra step but its easy to do.

i normally buy like 8 or so sets and push out all the pins and keep them in a ziploc ready for when i need them

Or eBay and or Amazon 2.9 x 15.8 stainless pins. They are slightly long but easy to trim. 100 pieces for $8 plus a few to ship. Not bad.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ROSCOE
Or eBay and or Amazon 2.9 x 15.8 stainless pins. They are slightly long but easy to trim. 100 pieces for $8 plus a few to ship. Not bad.
never tried those, how do they wear? trimming/de-burring them sounds like a hassle
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:49 PM
  #388  
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Originally Posted by roblupo
OK I am new to kyosho, bought two buggies Tki4 and converted one to an ebuggy. I am with you guys, you pay 700 plus alum hubs and after one race weekend it looks like has 3 gallons plus on the car if not more. Kinda bummed about that. I have had some hard landings in some hard mains this past weekend and bent one of my 85 dollar front 16 degree hubs, came off a jump wrong and broke a rear arm which bent a hing pin, and the car has handled OK that's about it, but not like I had hoped. Also after one race weekend the center driver line unis are already wiggly and pins have a flat spot, well had some pins from my mugen and went to change it, the pin went in but cracked the universal, so had to buy replacement universals for that. So yea almost 2000 in switching to this car and kinda regreting it right now...
kyosho pins are 2.9 mm not 3mm.

I have never bent a front C hub EVER, and I have never broken a rear arm NEVER, now I have slightly bent the rear pins but only noticed it on a rebuild. I have also never even broken a front plastic hub.

I am also not a great driver and I have had some horrific crashes with only broken front arms and bent pins. The worst I ever did was slightly bend the front rear pin holder. Sorry for your bad luck but give it another shot I am sure you will do better next time. Also can you post pics of the bent c hub?
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rcmoe
Houston was being fecesious. He knows it's a cosmetic thing
I know he is my bud, but I always try to give it back when possible. NO one better or more welcoming in this industry than him thats for sure he is the man!
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Pulse_
if this is the only complain about the TKI4 I'm fine

you can't blame Kysoho for making money, they could have taken the same path as other brands and come out every year with another buggy just to feed the demand.. but they don't! so you can keep your Kyosho and improve it through the years by just changing parts that wear and not be lost with drastic handling changes from one generation to the other.. this way the MP9 can also keep its value on the used market

if you're being loyal with Kyosho you can just compliment this approach because it is the most beneficial to the drivers.. people say it's too expensive I answer it might actually be the least expensive in the long run for the reasons mentioned above.. and btw hard coated parts aren't needed to make the buggy faster or stronger
And this is the only reason i run kyosho.I've seen guys go from the .losi 2.0 3.0 and now 4.0. And I still compete with the same circle of guys
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