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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 04-04-2016, 01:59 AM
  #211  
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No worries guys
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan
our track is one of the lowest grip tracks in Australia as recently confirmed at our Nationals round 1 where a lot of the interstate drivers were struggling to find traction, so I was a little nervous about switching from Xray to the TKi4 knowing that the updated car was aimed at maybe higher traction tracks. First qualifier, car as per build, 0 changes, yes the rear was loose, was a bit unhappy with it. In hindsight, 50% of this came down to how I was driving it. A local fast guy pointed out to me that i should alter my driving just a bit to accomodate the cars corner speed, use less brakes and let the car drive around the corner. My brother who has been driving the tki3 for a while now helped out with the setup. A total of 3 changes from the book build were done - stand the rear shock up 1 hole on the tower, give it less anti squat( i flipped the rear front pills) and rear camber link all the way down in the tower (length unchanged.) by the 3rd final qualifier it was hooking up as good as anything i have driven on that track. I qualified 1st in the B, left it unchanged for the finals and won quite easily, the car was literally pulling a lead around every corner, on the rest of the field, I have never experienced anything like it. the steering was plenty, yet smooth and never unsettled, and this also helped my consistency.

so in summary, the corner speed has been improved, i would say easily one of the fastest yet easy to drive cars available right now. it was extremely easy to set up for a loose track, minimal changes required from box setup, did i say this thing is fast? I can see why cody king, boots and tebo were running quick at Neo. very impressive buggy. no regrets on switching.

btw the fast guy who helped with the driving tip had a good 10 minute drive, and was extremely impressed, to the point where he said he's going home to order one.
Curious why you moved down on the tower with your camber link if you were struggling with rear traction? Does lowering the rear camber link on the tower not make it roll less, which is better suited for high grip tracks? Or have I been doing this backwards?

Thanks
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:00 AM
  #213  
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I could be wrong but i kinda feel higher rear link in rear gives me more off power rear traction and lower link seems to give me more on power rear traction, with more initial turn in
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:37 AM
  #214  
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tki4 manual, exploded view etc is available on kyosho website
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:21 AM
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Questions??

Just out of interest, for the people with a TKi3 how many of you dremel the chassis below the clutch bell?

I noticed Tebo runs the taller blue engine mounts.

I assume you will do the same on your TKi4's?

Ta
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:55 AM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by RiPPeN78
Curious why you moved down on the tower with your camber link if you were struggling with rear traction? Does lowering the rear camber link on the tower not make it roll less, which is better suited for high grip tracks? Or have I been doing this backwards?

Thanks
Sure it's the same on tki. But to gain rear traction on my 815 you lower the rear link
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Andyg01
Just out of interest, for the people with a TKi3 how many of you dremel the chassis below the clutch bell?

I noticed Tebo runs the taller blue engine mounts.

I assume you will do the same on your TKi4's?

Ta
What is the part number for these taller blue engine mounts? Are they from the MP7.5, MP777?
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Old 04-04-2016, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by phixd
What is the part number for these taller blue engine mounts? Are they from the MP7.5, MP777?
KYOIFW102

Amain has them in stock. These are great because you can use a longer 4mm screw on the motor mount plates and a locknut to secure them.


The Agama mounts also work.
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Old 04-04-2016, 11:21 AM
  #219  
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usually, going down on the camberlink gives less rear traction. It might be that your car starting to gain traction after some running. I know mine did in the first liter or two. After that it was very consistent.
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:03 PM
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TKI4 manual up
http://www.kyosho.com/eng/support/in...ggy_index.html
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:56 PM
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I took a quick look at the manual but didn't see anything about shock oil viscosity. What's a good starting point for front & rear shocks with the included 5x1.5 pistons?
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rosko
I could be wrong but i kinda feel higher rear link in rear gives me more off power rear traction and lower link seems to give me more on power rear traction, with more initial turn in
Exactly this.
A lower link is less traction at low speeds/off power, but when you get back on the gas hard, the car kinda straightens out and holds its line. I guess it isn't an all round 'traction' adjustment per se, more that you can get on the gas sooner on a loose track without the car fish tailing, all depending on exactly how hard you hit the gas.

Shock oils I started 37.5 front 32.5 rear Associated oils, seemed to work well

Last edited by BigInJapan; 04-04-2016 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan
Exactly this.
A lower link is less traction at low speeds/off power, but when you get back on the gas hard, the car kinda straightens out and holds its line. I guess it isn't an all round 'traction' adjustment per se, more that you can get on the gas sooner on a loose track without the car fish tailing, all depending on exactly how hard you hit the gas.

Shock oils I started 37.5 front 32.5 rear Associated oils, seemed to work well
Did you run those weights w/ the 1.5 pistons?
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 305M3
Did you run those weights w/ the 1.5 pistons?
Yep
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:56 PM
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Took the liberty of going through the exploded views and comparing part numbers to see what changed. The only option part included in this are the 19* front hub carriers, but the 13* are about the same price. The short story is if you're looking to convert a TKI3 to a TKI4, buy a new kit.

Here is what I found:

Last edited by fenton06; 05-26-2016 at 09:33 AM.
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