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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 04-02-2016, 08:13 PM
  #196  
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Can the pins in the dog bone be replaced with the mugen tool or is it next to impossible like the d815...

Last edited by rosko; 04-03-2016 at 03:51 AM.
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Old 04-02-2016, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rosko
Can the pins in the big bone be replaced with the mugen tool or is it next to impossible like the d815...
yes they can be replaced with the mugen tool. I have one and that is what I use, just make sure you do not use the mugen driver "inside" the dog bone, or grind it down just a bit as it is 3mm and it can crack the doggone
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Old 04-02-2016, 09:48 PM
  #198  
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Is there any advantage to universals compared to the rebuildable CVDS?

I've noticed that some models have switched from CVDs to Unis as they evolved, like mp9 to mp9tki3 & mbx6/7 to mbx7r
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Old 04-02-2016, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by phixd
Is there any advantage to universals compared to the rebuildable CVDS?

I've noticed that some models have switched from CVDs to Unis as they evolved, like mp9 to mp9tki3 & mbx6/7 to mbx7r
The biggest thing i notice is durability, you dont have to grease or clean or boot unis. But some of the mechanics claim that cvds give more bind under acceleration, what that does? Not a clue, but there you have it
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Old 04-03-2016, 12:52 AM
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Gavel- so u got your D815 converted to universals? If so, any perceptible difference in driving through bumps or how the car corners?
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Old 04-03-2016, 02:38 AM
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Had my first club meet with the TKi4, car is on point. Had to adjust my driving style from Xray, but that was really the only negative, as far as swapping brands.
Kanai wasn't kidding when he says he improved corner speed, it is just fast, everywhere, period. Very impressive.
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Old 04-03-2016, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
Gavel- so u got your D815 converted to universals? If so, any perceptible difference in driving through bumps or how the car corners?
I only have them in the front, and im nowhere near the caliber of driver necessary to feel in it on the track, i did it purely for the durability
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan
Had my first club meet with the TKi4, car is on point. Had to adjust my driving style from Xray, but that was really the only negative, as far as swapping brands.
Kanai wasn't kidding when he says he improved corner speed, it is just fast, everywhere, period. Very impressive.
Was the rear planted?
Did you have to much steering?

Are you happy you switched to mp9 vs the xray?
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:04 AM
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UNIs have less resistance, are lower maintenance and more durable all steel construction. Some like the CVD/CVAs because of feel as in more planted/stable. They are very high maintenance with all the pins/cup wear. Since the cups are usually made of aluminium. Then they are very susceptible to binding from dirt mixing with the required grease. Hence the need for boots that always tear. Which also promotes faster wear. Cav is running CVAs on his RC8B3 instead of the UNIs. Tebo's car looked plenty stable and planted to me with the UNIs. To me personally UNIs are the way to go.
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
you can run a 34mm flywheel it will work fine but it does come with a 32mm flywheel.
I have a couple of 34mm Werks clutches that I love on my Speed. Is there a need to shim the motor up with a 34mm? I was concerned about it bumping the ground on hard landings. Anybody run a 34mm on a mp9 that can relate some experience?
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
Was the rear planted?
Did you have to much steering?

Are you happy you switched to mp9 vs the xray?
our track is one of the lowest grip tracks in Australia as recently confirmed at our Nationals round 1 where a lot of the interstate drivers were struggling to find traction, so I was a little nervous about switching from Xray to the TKi4 knowing that the updated car was aimed at maybe higher traction tracks. First qualifier, car as per build, 0 changes, yes the rear was loose, was a bit unhappy with it. In hindsight, 50% of this came down to how I was driving it. A local fast guy pointed out to me that i should alter my driving just a bit to accomodate the cars corner speed, use less brakes and let the car drive around the corner. My brother who has been driving the tki3 for a while now helped out with the setup. A total of 3 changes from the book build were done - stand the rear shock up 1 hole on the tower, give it less anti squat( i flipped the rear front pills) and rear camber link all the way down in the tower (length unchanged.) by the 3rd final qualifier it was hooking up as good as anything i have driven on that track. I qualified 1st in the B, left it unchanged for the finals and won quite easily, the car was literally pulling a lead around every corner, on the rest of the field, I have never experienced anything like it. the steering was plenty, yet smooth and never unsettled, and this also helped my consistency.

so in summary, the corner speed has been improved, i would say easily one of the fastest yet easy to drive cars available right now. it was extremely easy to set up for a loose track, minimal changes required from box setup, did i say this thing is fast? I can see why cody king, boots and tebo were running quick at Neo. very impressive buggy. no regrets on switching.

btw the fast guy who helped with the driving tip had a good 10 minute drive, and was extremely impressed, to the point where he said he's going home to order one.
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JonnyW
I have a couple of 34mm Werks clutches that I love on my Speed. Is there a need to shim the motor up with a 34mm? I was concerned about it bumping the ground on hard landings. Anybody run a 34mm on a mp9 that can relate some experience?
No Johnny, when I got my first mp9 it was used and did not have a flywheel with it so I used my 34 mm buku and my alpha 34 mm on it with no issues at all. If anything it was easier to start as the starterbox didn't have to go up so far
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JonnyW
I have a couple of 34mm Werks clutches that I love on my Speed. Is there a need to shim the motor up with a 34mm? I was concerned about it bumping the ground on hard landings. Anybody run a 34mm on a mp9 that can relate some experience?
I only had the issue once with a 34mm flywheel, it was a small rock sticking up out of the track, once i got a 32mm never had the problem again but there might be that one fluke incident and according to murpheys law it will be when your in front, so if you can get a 32 it isnt going to hurt you
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan
our track is one of the lowest grip tracks in Australia as recently confirmed at our Nationals round 1 where a lot of the interstate drivers were struggling to find traction, so I was a little nervous about switching from Xray to the TKi4 knowing that the updated car was aimed at maybe higher traction tracks. First qualifier, car as per build, 0 changes, yes the rear was loose, was a bit unhappy with it. In hindsight, 50% of this came down to how I was driving it. A local fast guy pointed out to me that i should alter my driving just a bit to accomodate the cars corner speed, use less brakes and let the car drive around the corner. My brother who has been driving the tki3 for a while now helped out with the setup. A total of 3 changes from the book build were done - stand the rear shock up 1 hole on the tower, give it less anti squat( i flipped the rear front pills) and rear camber link all the way down in the tower (length unchanged.) by the 3rd final qualifier it was hooking up as good as anything i have driven on that track. I qualified 1st in the B, left it unchanged for the finals and won quite easily, the car was literally pulling a lead around every corner, on the rest of the field, I have never experienced anything like it. the steering was plenty, yet smooth and never unsettled, and this also helped my consistency.

so in summary, the corner speed has been improved, i would say easily one of the fastest yet easy to drive cars available right now. it was extremely easy to set up for a loose track, minimal changes required from box setup, did i say this thing is fast? I can see why cody king, boots and tebo were running quick at Neo. very impressive buggy. no regrets on switching.

btw the fast guy who helped with the driving tip had a good 10 minute drive, and was extremely impressed, to the point where he said he's going home to order one.

Wonderful information. Thank you for your time on this.

Waiting on my shell to get. Back.. Then. Im on. The track.
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:45 AM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan
our track is one of the lowest grip tracks in Australia as recently confirmed at our Nationals round 1 where a lot of the interstate drivers were struggling to find traction, so I was a little nervous about switching from Xray to the TKi4 knowing that the updated car was aimed at maybe higher traction tracks. First qualifier, car as per build, 0 changes, yes the rear was loose, was a bit unhappy with it. In hindsight, 50% of this came down to how I was driving it. A local fast guy pointed out to me that i should alter my driving just a bit to accomodate the cars corner speed, use less brakes and let the car drive around the corner. My brother who has been driving the tki3 for a while now helped out with the setup. A total of 3 changes from the book build were done - stand the rear shock up 1 hole on the tower, give it less anti squat( i flipped the rear front pills) and rear camber link all the way down in the tower (length unchanged.) by the 3rd final qualifier it was hooking up as good as anything i have driven on that track. I qualified 1st in the B, left it unchanged for the finals and won quite easily, the car was literally pulling a lead around every corner, on the rest of the field, I have never experienced anything like it. the steering was plenty, yet smooth and never unsettled, and this also helped my consistency.

so in summary, the corner speed has been improved, i would say easily one of the fastest yet easy to drive cars available right now. it was extremely easy to set up for a loose track, minimal changes required from box setup, did i say this thing is fast? I can see why cody king, boots and tebo were running quick at Neo. very impressive buggy. no regrets on switching.

btw the fast guy who helped with the driving tip had a good 10 minute drive, and was extremely impressed, to the point where he said he's going home to order one.
sounds really good, thanks for this info.
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