1LikesMugen MBX7
02-20-2013, 11:55 AM
#2581
02-20-2013, 12:10 PM
#2582
The plastic inserts that came with the MBX7 kit are a lot worse than the ones that came with the 6R alu horn. The inserts from the 6R are a lot harder and do not strip out that easy. I went to full Alu anyhow on both steering and throttle. Steering is easy as nearly everything will fit there, but be careful on the throttle / break side. I was able to put it together in a one hole configuration (different from the original setup with two holes), but had to use washers to make everything fit.
I managed to squeeze a losi aluminium spline insert into the std plastic throttle horn as the std set up stripped for me...as long as you have some pliers it will go in with a bit of squeezing.
02-20-2013, 01:20 PM
#2585
Wow! You got some skillz for sure! NICE!
02-20-2013, 02:12 PM
#2586
Tech Rookie
Fuel filter
Hi, I would urge you all to check the rubber hose that links your filter to the engine. I have ran my car for about 20 mins, just running the engine in anyway
as i was cleaning the car i noticed the rubber was torn. It was well away from the slash gaurd and screwed in however it was still torn. I would bet that 90% have been sliced and you havent noticed. Anyone struggling to tune there engine
or any funny engine experiences well i would check that hose. Thanks
as i was cleaning the car i noticed the rubber was torn. It was well away from the slash gaurd and screwed in however it was still torn. I would bet that 90% have been sliced and you havent noticed. Anyone struggling to tune there engine
or any funny engine experiences well i would check that hose. Thanks
02-20-2013, 10:29 PM
#2587
Tech Apprentice
I know I can order the M2C directly from them, but there are some other things I need from Amain so it would save me some shipping cost if I could order everything at the same time.
02-21-2013, 12:17 AM
#2588
Tech Rookie
Hi all, how do you build the ftw upper plate for seven? with all those shim I'm a little lost...
02-21-2013, 01:09 AM
#2589
Tech Master
Sorry, i do not know.
I wait until the Fioronio topbrace come out.
I wait until the Fioronio topbrace come out.
02-21-2013, 01:30 AM
#2590
Tech Regular
From what I can work out anyway....
02-21-2013, 04:53 AM
#2591
Tech Adept
Do you guys have any thoughts on the short vs long front chassi brace?
This weekend I'm gonna race on on a loose and bumpy track with very large and big/fast corners.
Thanks!
This weekend I'm gonna race on on a loose and bumpy track with very large and big/fast corners.
Thanks!
02-21-2013, 09:03 AM
#2592
Thommi, do the following and I'm sure your car will be better. First understand that your changes should be made to address wheather your car is loose everywhere in general or loose just in the corners. The changes you make you'd want to address only the issue you're having and not create new challenges.
If the car is loose in the corners, try the following one change at a time until you see improvement.
1. Go to a softer swaybar, this will allow the car to roll more while cornering thus providing more latteral traction. 2.8 or 2.7 ...This focus only on cornering traction without affecting the car around the rest of the track.
2. Run a longer rear upper camber link if you aren't already.
3. Add more rear droop. ***this will have other effects depending on how much you add*** Mugens are good with full droop.
If your car is loose everywhere, try the following until you see improvement
1. Softer springs and or lighter oils
2. More rear toe in, but I don't recommend going beyond 3deg
3. add more droop to the front which will allow more weight transfer to the rear on power.
4. Less anti-squat
5. You may go to a slightly higher ride height
6. Lighter rear diff oil......will allow the rear wheels to act more independently of one another. Spinning at different speeds which provide more traction in loose conditions.
7. Rear shocks mounted in on the tower and also in on the lower arm provides more rear traction....don't do both at the same time.
***** One thing most people overlook is the clutch setup....if you have a high powered engine, one of the first places I would look to is making sure my clutch is tuned correctly. If you are using a high powered engine on a loose track your car will still be loose even if you made all the above changes without addressing power delivery. So make sure your clutch is setup to deliver the power smoothly, yet efficient.*******
Remember to make one change at a time and if your car improves continue in that direction until you reach the desired result.....
If the car is loose in the corners, try the following one change at a time until you see improvement.
1. Go to a softer swaybar, this will allow the car to roll more while cornering thus providing more latteral traction. 2.8 or 2.7 ...This focus only on cornering traction without affecting the car around the rest of the track.
2. Run a longer rear upper camber link if you aren't already.
3. Add more rear droop. ***this will have other effects depending on how much you add*** Mugens are good with full droop.
If your car is loose everywhere, try the following until you see improvement
1. Softer springs and or lighter oils
2. More rear toe in, but I don't recommend going beyond 3deg
3. add more droop to the front which will allow more weight transfer to the rear on power.
4. Less anti-squat
5. You may go to a slightly higher ride height
6. Lighter rear diff oil......will allow the rear wheels to act more independently of one another. Spinning at different speeds which provide more traction in loose conditions.
7. Rear shocks mounted in on the tower and also in on the lower arm provides more rear traction....don't do both at the same time.
***** One thing most people overlook is the clutch setup....if you have a high powered engine, one of the first places I would look to is making sure my clutch is tuned correctly. If you are using a high powered engine on a loose track your car will still be loose even if you made all the above changes without addressing power delivery. So make sure your clutch is setup to deliver the power smoothly, yet efficient.*******
Remember to make one change at a time and if your car improves continue in that direction until you reach the desired result.....
02-21-2013, 09:18 AM
#2594
The front of the car has a setting called anti-dive or kick-up as some may put it. This adjustment acts in the same manner as anti-squat but for the front of the car. However, it's always important to remember that when adjusting kick-up you'll also be affecting the overall caster as well. Lastly, the affects that anti-squat and kick-up have are only felt during braking or acceleration and is neutral otherwise.
Think of driving a real car or just riding in one. When the driver hit the breaks your head will lean forward and when the car accelerates your head will push back toward the seat. This is the same weight transfer we're attempting to control with rc cars. I believe the name of the game is basically controlling the moving weight of the car. The better you are at controlling weight transfer from side to side and front to back the better and more stable your car will feel. Keep in mind that weight can work for or against you, but the trick is to find the right BALANCE !
Last edited by Johnieblaze; 02-21-2013 at 09:47 AM.
02-21-2013, 11:01 AM
#2595
