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Old 04-29-2013, 08:06 AM
  #4081  
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I installed the new Mugen Front Upper Plate CFRP

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Old 04-29-2013, 09:30 AM
  #4082  
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No loctite here either
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:14 AM
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I just noticed some excessive wear on the outer part of the front tires.
It's a very sharp line between the inner half and outer part and only on the front tires... The outer part is completely worn out while the inner part of the tires have like 60%-70% left.
Very confusing and I've never experienced anything like that before.

Anyone with any ideas on what might have caused this?
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:20 AM
  #4084  
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Originally Posted by Bappen
I just noticed some excessive wear on the outer part of the front tires.
It's a very sharp line between the inner half and outer part and only on the front tires... The outer part is completely worn out while the inner part of the tires have like 60%-70% left.
Very confusing and I've never experienced anything like that before.

Anyone with any ideas on what might have caused this?
camber?
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Bappen
I just noticed some excessive wear on the outer part of the front tires.
It's a very sharp line between the inner half and outer part and only on the front tires... The outer part is completely worn out while the inner part of the tires have like 60%-70% left.
Very confusing and I've never experienced anything like that before.

Anyone with any ideas on what might have caused this?
your car need more camber, about 2,5 - 3 degrees.
it´s because the high amount of total caster the mugen has. on power during cornering you´re wearing the outside of the tire on the inside wheel. thicker front diff oil will help also.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:43 PM
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can some one post pictures or explain more on how to reverse the ackermann bar i tried it and it hits the arms what am i doing wrong
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:48 PM
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just grind the plastic under the upper arm where it hits.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:49 PM
  #4088  
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mine worn out enough that i don't grind it.. :-)
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:55 PM
  #4089  
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Does anyone know where I can get a KO Propo electrical switch 2 from?
If this one is not available what is a good switch to use?
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
See the buggy is a dream vs the mbx6 or 6r.

I'm so much faster than I was with my 6R. Like 2 or 3 sec faster I'm able to stay consistent lap after lap within 1 sec and even if i crash I'm able to recover asap

I need to find the new rear PLASTIC HUBS anyone know where I can order some? I just can't see why i need the Alum $80 ones.

Thank you
Jojo at Top options will have it soon he think Mr Motorman ... He told me at Toulouse that he have order it to Mugen europe ... He is waiting for ...
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:11 PM
  #4091  
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Originally Posted by jccj816
Does anyone know where I can get a KO Propo electrical switch 2 from?
If this one is not available what is a good switch to use?
The Robotronic switch is available at Amainhobbies. The VP-Pro switch is good as I am using it on my MBX7, but it is unfortunately out of stock.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:23 PM
  #4092  
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Is anyone else having problems with the steering binding when there is more than 50% droop? I've loosened up the pillow ball caps to the point that there is a tiny bit of slop and my steering still binds until I have the arms almost parallel to the ground. It's not totally bound up, it binds progressively worse as the steering moves to it's farthest left and right points. As the steering moves to it's furthest throw, the opposite arm starts to lift as well. My kit is nearly new. Please don't flame me, but I converted it to electric. There are far more MBX7 users/experience with this car in the nitro forum which I why I'm posting here. My MBX6 kits never seemed to have this issue, so I'm looking for some tips on how to possible correct it.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:42 PM
  #4093  
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Originally Posted by maximax
Jojo at Top options will have it soon he think Mr Motorman ... He told me at Toulouse that he have order it to Mugen europe ... He is waiting for ...
Thank you
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Wease
Is anyone else having problems with the steering binding when there is more than 50% droop? I've loosened up the pillow ball caps to the point that there is a tiny bit of slop and my steering still binds until I have the arms almost parallel to the ground. It's not totally bound up, it binds progressively worse as the steering moves to it's farthest left and right points. As the steering moves to it's furthest throw, the opposite arm starts to lift as well. My kit is nearly new. Please don't flame me, but I converted it to electric. There are far more MBX7 users/experience with this car in the nitro forum which I why I'm posting here. My MBX6 kits never seemed to have this issue, so I'm looking for some tips on how to possible correct it.
Sorry I don't work on hair dryers.
Probably the suspension is upset cause it's to quiet

OK OK, I get a little bind at FULL droop and full lock, but I'm not usually turning when I'm in air borne. That's about the only time I'm at full droop.
I know not to set my steering endpoints when the car is on the box. They should be set at ride height. I even take my servo arm off and find the end points with my hands and measure. That way I know I'm getting the most travel without stressing the servo.

Cheers
Brian
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:51 PM
  #4095  
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Originally Posted by Crash Test Dumy
Sorry I don't work on hair dryers.
Probably the suspension is upset cause it's to quiet
Touche, I knew I'd have to endure some of that before I got an answer. Well played sir!

Judging by your description, I'd say we probably have the same amount of bind. Although I still get a tiny bit of bind at 75% droop. I mean it's not going to burn up my servo, but I know it's not as free as my MBX6 was and it bothers me. I'll double check the my end points and re-adjust.
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