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Old 01-18-2013, 08:00 AM
  #1831  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
Chad or other team Mugen driver can you let us know when will the

New Black front springs will be ready for US? Proto #

black L70 9T --Proto #

black L70 9.25T--- Proto #

and are the Black L86 10.75T --MugE0563





Heavy Pillow ball
#C0160



or

Heavy Nut that holds it? Proto #

and What will be the part number of these items

Thank you

Dibs


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Those springs are the silver springs (silver springs use a smaller wire dia. Than the black ones). The 1.5 is the wire dia, the length is 70mm and the other number is the amount of coils (less coils is stiffer). I think black springs use 1.6mm wire

Mugen made the team springs for the front in the same wire size as the older black springs (and correct length for the X7) for the worlds. They were just made before the race, and will prolly be an option part eventually.

We all used the 9 coil front (black prototype)
And the 10.75 coil (black, currently available) rear

At home the 8.25 and 8.0 coil silvers work good for the front and the 8.25 silver for the rear (x6 and x7 silver spring)
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Rear 10.75 black spring...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-86mm-1075T-2

Heavy pivot ball (used on top only, they can bend easily on the bottom because they are stainless and not alloy)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...gen-Pivot-Ball

Front black Springs (70mm length black) 9.0 or 9.25
I havnt seen these available yet.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:02 AM
  #1832  
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Originally Posted by DLF
To those of you still using the clear tank that has not yet cracked, are you also running the long fwd chassis brace? I building mine now and, in addition to the other precautions mentioned on this thread, I've also built the car with the long brace. At least until I get the new tank.
I still run the clear tank with no issues. I did raise the tank by 2mm and do run the long fron brace. Only issue I had so far is the body is to close to the tank lid and I had it get stuck open when the chassis flexed. Just trimmed the body bit and have not had a issue since.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:16 AM
  #1833  
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if you see on lee's setup sheet, he used a steel nut that holds the pivot balls inside the steering knuckles. Mitch at M2c made these as well in steel. swapping them for the oem aluminum ones they were about 13 grams heavier than stock. gives the car more on throttle steering and sometimes smooths out turn in (depending on the surface)

this is the nut I am talking about (pic of the stock aluminum nut)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...djusting-Nut-4
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:17 AM
  #1834  
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Default Long vs Short brace

Can anyone tell me how the feel and handling would change when switching the front braces. I didn't see a entry in the Hudy set up book for brace length. And also, how would you describe the effect of the reversing the flange on the bottom of the shock, front and rear?
Thank You
Brian
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:21 AM
  #1835  
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if you guys are wanting to add a bunch of rear traction, try the camber link position that Lee used back on page 121. Inner middle on tower and outside on rear hub. At my local track its almost too much traction
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:24 AM
  #1836  
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Originally Posted by Crash Test Dumy
Can anyone tell me how the feel and handling would change when switching the front braces. I didn't see a entry in the Hudy set up book for brace length. And also, how would you describe the effect of the reversing the flange on the bottom of the shock, front and rear?
Thank You
Brian
the shorter brace is more chassis flex, it should numb the sensitivity of the car down some (mainly steering), more traction and better in bumps. Using It is harder on the chassis than the long brace. I mainly use the long brace and will use the short one on real bumpy tracks.

the flange nut on the bottom of the shocks changes the shock angle in a way that most other cars cannot adjust (unless you have a dremel). On the rear shocks if you position the flange toward the head of the screw head it will make the rear end a little softer than if the flange was pointing forward. The front I'm not sure which way will soften it, basically the way I think it works is the closer the shocks are at a 90 degree angle with the arm angle the softer the dampening will be.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:37 AM
  #1837  
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Originally Posted by DLF
To those of you still using the clear tank that has not yet cracked, are you also running the long fwd chassis brace? I building mine now and, in addition to the other precautions mentioned on this thread, I've also built the car with the long brace. At least until I get the new tank.
I'm using the short front brace. My tank is tightened down normally with no extra o-ring and no space between the screw and rubber insert as I don't feel the need for it after I ground off lower tabs. The body I'm using is the mbx6 BD fighter body(took a while to get it to fit) and the body rests on the splash guard so the tank is even more secured in place. The car has almost 1.5hrs runtime and was ran in near freezing temps also, 30-40 degrees and it got a beating. All is good for now.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:39 AM
  #1838  
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7-Instock
http://www.superiorhobbies.com/istar...id=MUGE2001!sh
Discount online code RCTECH10
10% OFF $199 OR MORE ONLINE WEBSITE ONLY
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:45 AM
  #1839  
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Originally Posted by chad bradley
if you guys are wanting to add a bunch of rear traction, try the camber link position that Lee used back on page 121. Inner middle on tower and outside on rear hub. At my local track its almost too much traction
Hey Chad,

Thanks for that info, and on the traction note, are talking about forward traction or lateral traction? And what is your local track condition?
Thank You
Brian

Last edited by Crash Test Dumy; 01-18-2013 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:36 AM
  #1840  
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Mugen is stepping up on this fuel tank issue. Contact Mugen USA with a proof of purchase, and they will make it right! A+ in my book! 1 949 7075607
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:58 AM
  #1841  
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Originally Posted by iglu25
I've heard of guys breaking engine cases on really big jumps using a two piece motor mount. The one piece will definitely support the engine case better than a two piece especially when the chassis flexes.
Is the mbx5r one piece mount the same?
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:05 PM
  #1842  
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Originally Posted by LightningStruck
Mugen is stepping up on this fuel tank issue. Contact Mugen USA with a proof of purchase, and they will make it right! A+ in my book! 1 949 7075607
An e-mail address for the international customers who purchase the kit from USA ?
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:09 PM
  #1843  
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Originally Posted by LightningStruck
Mugen is stepping up on this fuel tank issue. Contact Mugen USA with a proof of purchase, and they will make it right! A+ in my book! 1 949 7075607
Just talked to Mark at Mugen and was told that is on a case by case. They will make it right but need picture of broken tank and proof of purchase.

[email protected]
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:52 PM
  #1844  
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thanks for detailed info.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:53 PM
  #1845  
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Originally Posted by airbornesantos
Just talked to Mark at Mugen and was told that is on a case by case. They will make it right but need picture of broken tank and proof of purchase.

[email protected]
I contacted them on Monday and had my new tank on Wednesday. Awsome customer service!
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