Mugen MBX7
#1831
Chad or other team Mugen driver can you let us know when will the
New Black front springs will be ready for US? Proto #
black L70 9T --Proto #
black L70 9.25T--- Proto #
and are the Black L86 10.75T --MugE0563
Heavy Pillow ball
#C0160
or
Heavy Nut that holds it? Proto #
and What will be the part number of these items
Thank you
Dibs
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Those springs are the silver springs (silver springs use a smaller wire dia. Than the black ones). The 1.5 is the wire dia, the length is 70mm and the other number is the amount of coils (less coils is stiffer). I think black springs use 1.6mm wire
Mugen made the team springs for the front in the same wire size as the older black springs (and correct length for the X7) for the worlds. They were just made before the race, and will prolly be an option part eventually.
We all used the 9 coil front (black prototype)
And the 10.75 coil (black, currently available) rear
At home the 8.25 and 8.0 coil silvers work good for the front and the 8.25 silver for the rear (x6 and x7 silver spring)
__________________
Chad Bradley
New Black front springs will be ready for US? Proto #
black L70 9T --Proto #
black L70 9.25T--- Proto #
and are the Black L86 10.75T --MugE0563
Heavy Pillow ball
#C0160
or
Heavy Nut that holds it? Proto #
and What will be the part number of these items
Thank you
Dibs
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Those springs are the silver springs (silver springs use a smaller wire dia. Than the black ones). The 1.5 is the wire dia, the length is 70mm and the other number is the amount of coils (less coils is stiffer). I think black springs use 1.6mm wire
Mugen made the team springs for the front in the same wire size as the older black springs (and correct length for the X7) for the worlds. They were just made before the race, and will prolly be an option part eventually.
We all used the 9 coil front (black prototype)
And the 10.75 coil (black, currently available) rear
At home the 8.25 and 8.0 coil silvers work good for the front and the 8.25 silver for the rear (x6 and x7 silver spring)
__________________
Chad Bradley
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-86mm-1075T-2
Heavy pivot ball (used on top only, they can bend easily on the bottom because they are stainless and not alloy)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...gen-Pivot-Ball
Front black Springs (70mm length black) 9.0 or 9.25
I havnt seen these available yet.
#1832
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
To those of you still using the clear tank that has not yet cracked, are you also running the long fwd chassis brace? I building mine now and, in addition to the other precautions mentioned on this thread, I've also built the car with the long brace. At least until I get the new tank.
#1833
if you see on lee's setup sheet, he used a steel nut that holds the pivot balls inside the steering knuckles. Mitch at M2c made these as well in steel. swapping them for the oem aluminum ones they were about 13 grams heavier than stock. gives the car more on throttle steering and sometimes smooths out turn in (depending on the surface)
this is the nut I am talking about (pic of the stock aluminum nut)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...djusting-Nut-4
this is the nut I am talking about (pic of the stock aluminum nut)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...djusting-Nut-4
#1834
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Long vs Short brace
Can anyone tell me how the feel and handling would change when switching the front braces. I didn't see a entry in the Hudy set up book for brace length. And also, how would you describe the effect of the reversing the flange on the bottom of the shock, front and rear?
Thank You
Brian
Thank You
Brian
#1835
if you guys are wanting to add a bunch of rear traction, try the camber link position that Lee used back on page 121. Inner middle on tower and outside on rear hub. At my local track its almost too much traction
#1836
Can anyone tell me how the feel and handling would change when switching the front braces. I didn't see a entry in the Hudy set up book for brace length. And also, how would you describe the effect of the reversing the flange on the bottom of the shock, front and rear?
Thank You
Brian
Thank You
Brian
the flange nut on the bottom of the shocks changes the shock angle in a way that most other cars cannot adjust (unless you have a dremel). On the rear shocks if you position the flange toward the head of the screw head it will make the rear end a little softer than if the flange was pointing forward. The front I'm not sure which way will soften it, basically the way I think it works is the closer the shocks are at a 90 degree angle with the arm angle the softer the dampening will be.
#1837
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
To those of you still using the clear tank that has not yet cracked, are you also running the long fwd chassis brace? I building mine now and, in addition to the other precautions mentioned on this thread, I've also built the car with the long brace. At least until I get the new tank.
#1838
Tech Champion
iTrader: (91)
7-Instock
http://www.superiorhobbies.com/istar...id=MUGE2001!sh
Discount online code RCTECH10
10% OFF $199 OR MORE ONLINE WEBSITE ONLY
http://www.superiorhobbies.com/istar...id=MUGE2001!sh
Discount online code RCTECH10
10% OFF $199 OR MORE ONLINE WEBSITE ONLY
#1841
#1842
#1843
[email protected]
#1844
thanks for detailed info.
#1845
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Just talked to Mark at Mugen and was told that is on a case by case. They will make it right but need picture of broken tank and proof of purchase.
[email protected]
[email protected]