Mugen MBX7
#2596
Tech Addict
M2C 3 PC MOTOR MOUNT
Amain should have these in stock.
#2597
Tech Addict
MBX7 CARBON FIBER FRONT SHOCK TOWER BRA.
M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of the MBX7 CARBON FIBER
SHOCK TOWER BRA
made with 6061 aluminum this will help protect the upper ears of the shock
tower and add some strength to the tower as well.
Note:::: this will not fit the aluminum shock tower so when ordering please
select the correct model for you particular needs.
We will be taking pre orders on this part and will ship by mid next week
part n. m2c 5241
http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=5241
www.m2cracing.com
#2598
Tech Addict
MBX6 MBX7 REAR UPPER SHOCK TOWER BRACE
M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of Rear upper bulk head
brace for the MBX6 AND MBX7.
this part is designed to help keep from breaking the small plastic cross bar that holds the rear brace to the bulkhead. It also keeps the screws from
stripping out or breaking the bulkhead.
Designed primarily for the electric mbx6 conversions and now the mbx7
conversions, it also works really well on the gas models.
http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=5735
part no. m2c 5735
www.m2cracing.com
#2599
#2600
Anti-Squat settings allows you to control weight transfer at the rear of your car during braking or acceleration. So to answer question, less anti-squat will allow more weight to be transferred to the rear during acceleration which provides more traction and more anti-squat does just the opposite by prohibiting weight to the rear during acceleration and keeping it more toward the front.
The front of the car has a setting called anti-dive or kick-up as some may put it. This adjustment acts in the same manner as anti-squat but for the front of the car. However, it's always important to remember that when adjusting kick-up you'll also be affecting the overall caster as well. Lastly, the affects that anti-squat and kick-up have are only felt during braking or acceleration and is neutral otherwise.
Think of driving a real car or just riding in one. When the driver hit the breaks your head will lean forward and when the car accelerates your head will push back toward the seat. This is the same weight transfer we're attempting to control with rc cars. I believe the name of the game is basically controlling the moving weight of the car. The better you are at controlling weight transfer from side to side and front to back the better and more stable your car will feel. Keep in mind that weight can work for or against you, but the trick is to find the right BALANCE !
The front of the car has a setting called anti-dive or kick-up as some may put it. This adjustment acts in the same manner as anti-squat but for the front of the car. However, it's always important to remember that when adjusting kick-up you'll also be affecting the overall caster as well. Lastly, the affects that anti-squat and kick-up have are only felt during braking or acceleration and is neutral otherwise.
Think of driving a real car or just riding in one. When the driver hit the breaks your head will lean forward and when the car accelerates your head will push back toward the seat. This is the same weight transfer we're attempting to control with rc cars. I believe the name of the game is basically controlling the moving weight of the car. The better you are at controlling weight transfer from side to side and front to back the better and more stable your car will feel. Keep in mind that weight can work for or against you, but the trick is to find the right BALANCE !
#2602
More anti will give you more traction initially. On high traction tracks, it may feel as if it has more traction coming out of corners. Less anti will generally give you more rear traction on slippery or dusty tracks.
#2603
Anti-squat is a very simple adjustment to make. Next time out, run very little to no anti-squat and watch how much your car will 'squat' under heavy acceleration ( very little), and off power it will allow much of that weight to remain in the rear (increased overall traction), as oppose to running more anti-squat (more squat under acceleration) which will force more weight onto the rear wheels, but more weight forward after accelerating is done (More on power rear traction only and less overall)
****SORRY ABOUT THAT, MY LAST POST WAS A LITTLE BACKWARDS****** I haven't explained it in a while.....IT CAN GET CONFUSING..
Last edited by Johnieblaze; 02-21-2013 at 01:29 PM.
#2604
ANTI-SQUAT
Anti-Squat is very misleading because the word itself suggest the very opposite of what the adjustment actually does. It should be called (PRO-SQUAT).
#2606
But the word Anti-Squat would have you to think of it backwards because if you think of more anti-squat you'll think that you'll be stopping the car from squatting under acceleration when it's actually the direct opposite.
#2607
I think your right Kevin, and there are a 100 different ways to say what it does. My understanding is more anti squat will use more spring rate initially under acceleration which would make the car actually squat less (harder to compress the shock), and when or if the car brakes free, it will do so more sudden or violently. With less anti squat you use less spring rate under acceleration which will make the car squat more, and when the car brakes free it will do it less sudden or more mildly.
#2608
I think your right Kevin, and there are a 100 different ways to say what it does. My understanding is more anti squat will use more spring rate initially under acceleration which would make the car actually squat less (harder to compress the shock), and when or if the car brakes free, it will do so more sudden or violently. With less anti squat you use less spring rate under acceleration which will make the car squat more, and when the car brakes free it will do it less sudden or more mildly.
Last edited by Johnieblaze; 02-23-2013 at 08:46 AM.
#2609
Tech Addict
servo horn for MBX7
Hey Mitch, how about some of these out of aluminum?????
Just sayin
Just sayin
We need an aluminum mount with the correct internal splines to solve the problem.
I can make the entire servo horn but the special splined tooling for 3 different servos is very expensive.
I probably could not make my money back on the tooling before someone
comes out with it.
But I have an Idea on how to adapt a existing servo horn with the addition of
a top plate that would bring everything back to the origional height of the mugen horn.
I will be working on it really soon and keep everyone posted.
need a couple of weeks.
#2610
Not a squirrel video. Anything but those!