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Old 02-21-2013, 11:03 AM
  #2596  
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Default M2C 3 PC MOTOR MOUNT

Originally Posted by Ayreon
Been in contact with them but they say it doesn't fit the MBX7 :-(

I know I can order the M2C directly from them, but there are some other things I need from Amain so it would save me some shipping cost if I could order everything at the same time.
Amain should have these in stock.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:13 AM
  #2597  
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Default MBX7 CARBON FIBER FRONT SHOCK TOWER BRA.



M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of the MBX7 CARBON FIBER
SHOCK TOWER BRA
made with 6061 aluminum this will help protect the upper ears of the shock
tower and add some strength to the tower as well.
Note:::: this will not fit the aluminum shock tower so when ordering please
select the correct model for you particular needs.
We will be taking pre orders on this part and will ship by mid next week

part n. m2c 5241

http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=5241

www.m2cracing.com
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:49 AM
  #2598  
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Default MBX6 MBX7 REAR UPPER SHOCK TOWER BRACE






M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of Rear upper bulk head
brace for the MBX6 AND MBX7.
this part is designed to help keep from breaking the small plastic cross bar that holds the rear brace to the bulkhead. It also keeps the screws from
stripping out or breaking the bulkhead.
Designed primarily for the electric mbx6 conversions and now the mbx7
conversions, it also works really well on the gas models.


http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...?keywords=5735
part no. m2c 5735

www.m2cracing.com
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:25 PM
  #2599  
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Hey Mitch, how about some of these out of aluminum?????
Just sayin
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:33 PM
  #2600  
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Originally Posted by Johnieblaze
Anti-Squat settings allows you to control weight transfer at the rear of your car during braking or acceleration. So to answer question, less anti-squat will allow more weight to be transferred to the rear during acceleration which provides more traction and more anti-squat does just the opposite by prohibiting weight to the rear during acceleration and keeping it more toward the front.

The front of the car has a setting called anti-dive or kick-up as some may put it. This adjustment acts in the same manner as anti-squat but for the front of the car. However, it's always important to remember that when adjusting kick-up you'll also be affecting the overall caster as well. Lastly, the affects that anti-squat and kick-up have are only felt during braking or acceleration and is neutral otherwise.

Think of driving a real car or just riding in one. When the driver hit the breaks your head will lean forward and when the car accelerates your head will push back toward the seat. This is the same weight transfer we're attempting to control with rc cars. I believe the name of the game is basically controlling the moving weight of the car. The better you are at controlling weight transfer from side to side and front to back the better and more stable your car will feel. Keep in mind that weight can work for or against you, but the trick is to find the right BALANCE !
Are you sure about that ? xray truggy set-up book says opposite ( more antisquat= more on power rear traction) this make more sense to me too
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:43 PM
  #2601  
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Honestly I haven't messed with it much in 1/8 scale, but I did some with 2wd. Taking anti-squat out helped a little with traction but made it push. I expect the same in 1/8, just a smaller affect.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:47 PM
  #2602  
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Originally Posted by alport78
Are you sure about that ? xray truggy set-up book says opposite ( more antisquat= more on power rear traction) this make more sense to me too
More anti will give you more traction initially. On high traction tracks, it may feel as if it has more traction coming out of corners. Less anti will generally give you more rear traction on slippery or dusty tracks.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:06 PM
  #2603  
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Originally Posted by alport78
Are you sure about that ? xray truggy set-up book says opposite ( more antisquat= more on power rear traction) this make more sense to me too
That is correct, that's why setup takes some deep thought at times. More anti-squat will produce more on power traction because this is during acceleration when the force of the weight is most rearward because of the angle of the arm. However, with this adjustment your car will have much less traction off power. Regardless of how much anti-squat you have you will never stop the weight from completely transferring to the rear. Remember I said it's about weight control. It's all about how much weight you want to transfer and under what conditions; on power, off power, etc....Less anti-squat will transfer weight to the rear also but less of it because the inner pins are on less of an angle.

Anti-squat is a very simple adjustment to make. Next time out, run very little to no anti-squat and watch how much your car will 'squat' under heavy acceleration ( very little), and off power it will allow much of that weight to remain in the rear (increased overall traction), as oppose to running more anti-squat (more squat under acceleration) which will force more weight onto the rear wheels, but more weight forward after accelerating is done (More on power rear traction only and less overall)


****SORRY ABOUT THAT, MY LAST POST WAS A LITTLE BACKWARDS****** I haven't explained it in a while.....IT CAN GET CONFUSING..

Last edited by Johnieblaze; 02-21-2013 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:41 PM
  #2604  
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Default ANTI-SQUAT

Anti-Squat is very misleading because the word itself suggest the very opposite of what the adjustment actually does. It should be called (PRO-SQUAT).
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:52 PM
  #2605  
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You lost me. Anti-squat is raising the front of the rear arms. This puts the arms at an angle which would make it harder to compress the shock. A flat arm (no anti-squat) will be easier to compress.

Or is my reasoning all flip-flopped?
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:19 PM
  #2606  
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Originally Posted by Numburn
You lost me. Anti-squat is raising the front of the rear arms. This puts the arms at an angle which would make it harder to compress the shock. A flat arm (no anti-squat) will be easier to compress.

Or is my reasoning all flip-flopped?
Yes and No. The front of the rear arm is more at an angle when you run more anti-squat, but it doesn't make it harder to compress the shock, should actually be easier because of the arm angle its dumping more weight onto the rear under acceleration. Like a dump truck unloading dirt.....lol. A flat arm would be harder to compress because it doesn't have the assistance of the angled arm dumping more weight onto it.....

But the word Anti-Squat would have you to think of it backwards because if you think of more anti-squat you'll think that you'll be stopping the car from squatting under acceleration when it's actually the direct opposite.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:22 PM
  #2607  
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Originally Posted by Numburn
You lost me. Anti-squat is raising the front of the rear arms. This puts the arms at an angle which would make it harder to compress the shock. A flat arm (no anti-squat) will be easier to compress.

Or is my reasoning all flip-flopped?
I think your right Kevin, and there are a 100 different ways to say what it does. My understanding is more anti squat will use more spring rate initially under acceleration which would make the car actually squat less (harder to compress the shock), and when or if the car brakes free, it will do so more sudden or violently. With less anti squat you use less spring rate under acceleration which will make the car squat more, and when the car brakes free it will do it less sudden or more mildly.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:36 PM
  #2608  
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Originally Posted by iglu25
I think your right Kevin, and there are a 100 different ways to say what it does. My understanding is more anti squat will use more spring rate initially under acceleration which would make the car actually squat less (harder to compress the shock), and when or if the car brakes free, it will do so more sudden or violently. With less anti squat you use less spring rate under acceleration which will make the car squat more, and when the car brakes free it will do it less sudden or more mildly.
Sorry, but it isn't about spring rate. It's about weight. If you are running more anti-squat, the front of the rear arms are more at an angle allowing more weight over the rear wheels during acceleration, which gives you more traction. If you're running less anti-squat, the front of the rear arm is flatter which transfers less weight onto the rear wheels and therefore less traction during acceleration in comparison. It's that simple.

Last edited by Johnieblaze; 02-23-2013 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:55 PM
  #2609  
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Default servo horn for MBX7

Originally Posted by 3DRCRACER
Hey Mitch, how about some of these out of aluminum?????
Just sayin

We need an aluminum mount with the correct internal splines to solve the problem.
I can make the entire servo horn but the special splined tooling for 3 different servos is very expensive.
I probably could not make my money back on the tooling before someone
comes out with it.
But I have an Idea on how to adapt a existing servo horn with the addition of
a top plate that would bring everything back to the origional height of the mugen horn.
I will be working on it really soon and keep everyone posted.
need a couple of weeks.
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:25 PM
  #2610  
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Not a squirrel video. Anything but those!
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