Hey guys, Wanted to say hi. I'm new to nitro and have the 8T 2.0 that will be here today. So I might have some questions for you later. I have been reading a lot on here about this truggy and that will help for sure. I was hanging out on the buggy thread unknowingly until now. LOL So here I am. Ready to get started after not being in RC for about 12 years.

Johnny

Good deal. You will like this truck. If you have any questions feel free to ask we will be more than happy to help you.

Yea, I am sitting in my house bidding plans and staring out the front window very impatiently.

I bought the RTR and hope it does well for me. I havent raced off road in about 13 years or so, and that wasnt very much then. An old RC10 buggy. Man things have changed since then. I only hope to keep up. This will also be my first nitro motor break in. The guys at my local shop told me how to do it right so I dont screw it up.

The key to break in is to make sure you got plenty of blue smoke coming out the exhaust at all rpm levels while keeping the engine as hot as possible. Dont run it so rich where engine temps drop drastically. Also, a good fuel for break-in is Traxxas Top Fuel 20% nitro content. It has 16% oil content, which is perfect intitial runs. :)

I went with the hobby shop suggestion for break in and racing it. Powermaster 30% by VP. THey said it was less oil, but good for both break in and racing. I hope that it's ok.

Oh yea, I'm opening the box right now. :nod:

Yep, 30% nitro fuel is what your going to use to race with. That stuff will be fine too.

I just suggested the Traxxas top fuel because it has higher oil content, which lubricates a bit better and raises temps as well which is good for break in. But there is more than one acceptable way to break a motor in. Shoot me a PM once you've had a chance to drool over the new RC products. Hope my recommendations were 100% satisfactory and put you on the right path for your start up back into the hobby. :nod: I don't buy junk nor do I recommend it. :)

I cant start it yet. :( No adapter for charging the reciever battery. And the shipment from progressive hasnt made it yet. So I drooled over it a bit. NOw I have to clean that up and read the manual a couple of times to make sure I'm good with everything.

BTW, my son just drove his truck for the first time too. We got both vehicles today. He had a blast for about 10 minutes, then dead. LOL Now he gets to wait. Without the connectors I cant set his truck up for the LiPo's either. So he gets to run the 1 Nimh that came with it.

You know, its not a BAD thing to be forced to wait and read over the manual a few times more. I find ALOT of people who crack open their new toys rush into getting it up and operational and end up accidentally fudging something up. This is something where you definetly want to take your time, get REAL familiar with things(like that DX3S radio!),adjustments and settings etc. before trying to rush start your nitro vehicle up. IMO, now would be a GREAT TIME to actually break down your T 2.0 and rebuild it to get a much better understanding of how it goes together and what does what. There is one HUGE hop up you can do to it that won't cost you a single penny.............BOIL ALL THE PLASTIC PARTS. Especially the A-arms and chassis braces etc. Boiling allows the parts to flex more instead of snapping. Losi plastic definetly benefits from parts boiling. EVERY ONE of my RTR kits I have bought previously, I have done just that. Before running them for the first time, I disassembled it, got familiar with it, and boiled the plastic parts. Yeah, I know, the first thing you want to do is let her rip, but by holding off a bit and doing this, you will have a much better understanding and greater appreciation of the race truggy in the long run. And that DX3S, charge it up and learn how to set the adjustments on it, especially the telemetry sensors and the warning indicators.

PS: I assume your still waiting on the adaptor plugs from Progressive? Did you end up going with those 4000mah Lipo's to get your son started?

quick question....black brake pads, what side goes outward??

Yea, he has 2 of those LiPo's for the track. He'll play on the NiMh and I will probably get another of those so he doesnt have to wait so long between charges.

And for now, I am going to leave it alone. Chassis wise. I am going to read up on everything for sure. I'm going to the RC shop tomorrow to get all of our connectors swapped so it's all universal. THen do the motor break in tomorrow night or friday sometime. Then take it to the track on Sunday so I have the shop guys there for help tuning it, dialing it in a little and makeing sure that it is all working as it should.

Then once I know everything is ok, I'll take some time to tear it down and clean everything up. Learn how it tears down and goes back together. But I will know that it worked right before tear down and will know where to put everything back so it should keep working right. If I tear down now and get something back in wrong I wouldnt know until I try to run it. Then I am struggling trying to find the problem that I may or may not have created myself.

How long do you boil the parts for?

Raised portion faces out, away from the center diff

Just curious, what are the effects of installing them the other way around?

I don't think it's possible, the raised side is to big to Install .

mmm....I will double check, but I really think I have them installed backwards....

The side that has the extended ridge on it is to thick, it hits the diff mount, where the diff outdrive comes thru.