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-   -   8T 2.0 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/256312-8t-2-0-a.html)

goatbongoboy 06-16-2011 04:44 AM


Originally Posted by andre lim (Post 9262757)
Thanks all for the advise!:sweat:

the blue ofna truggy box for my losi's is a no brainer, I got a 2.0 buggy and 1.0 truggy, I just leave the screws loose and slide the plastic top parts back and forth, I used a sharpie to mark where to put them, perfect every time, no fuss no muss:spidey:

Losimoe 06-20-2011 08:47 AM

Hey guys,

My truggy is a little tail happy coming down the straight to a small bump and into a 90 degrees right hand turn, then onto the front straight. Just after the 90 deg turn, the car is a little unsettled and if i gun the throttle too soon, i will be going on the straight like a snake. How do i tame it down a notch?

Im running adjustable brace (not LRC). waiting for it to break before buying the LRC ones, but doesn't look like its going to happen. its one tough mother!

Do you recommend running the V2 shock tower?
http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/x...simoe/0001.jpg
thanks

Greg B 06-20-2011 10:37 AM

I do the samething from time to time. Let the truck square up a bit more before going all out on the throttle.

Jerm13 06-20-2011 10:42 AM


Originally Posted by Losimoe (Post 9280133)
Hey guys,

My truggy is a little tail happy coming down the straight to a small bump and into a 90 degrees right hand turn, then onto the front straight. Just after the 90 deg turn, the car is a little unsettled and if i gun the throttle too soon, i will be going on the straight like a snake. How do i tame it down a notch?

Im running adjustable brace (not LRC). waiting for it to break before buying the LRC ones, but doesn't look like its going to happen. its one tough mother!

Do you recommend running the V2 shock tower?
http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/x...simoe/0001.jpg
thanks

I think going down to 30wt/27.5wt rear shock oil will let the weight transfer faster to the rear, and moving the rear hubs from the middle to the front will help with getting additional weight over the rear wheels.

Is the track a long sweeping coarse or tight and technical?

Greg B 06-20-2011 11:13 AM


Originally Posted by Losimoe (Post 9280133)
Hey guys,

My truggy is a little tail happy coming down the straight to a small bump and into a 90 degrees right hand turn, then onto the front straight. Just after the 90 deg turn, the car is a little unsettled and if i gun the throttle too soon, i will be going on the straight like a snake. How do i tame it down a notch?

Im running adjustable brace (not LRC). waiting for it to break before buying the LRC ones, but doesn't look like its going to happen. its one tough mother!

Do you recommend running the V2 shock tower?
http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/x...simoe/0001.jpg
thanks

Since you're running the 12 degree inclined front hubs, you should either be running the LRC or stock rear hinge pin braces. This can throw your roll-center off and cause handling issues.

Donat 06-21-2011 10:54 AM

1. Which servo saver arm is better? Losi or KHZ? KHZ seem to have smoother surface finish. That should extend life of the plastic element which the alu arm is in contact with. Am I right?
Which one do you recommend?

2. My ackermann has a lot of slop. Is it possible to buy only bushings and screws? I'm using only short ackermann so I'd like to avoid buying the whole set.

While writing this post I noticed that the steering rack set for Losi 1.0 is no longer in production and is replaced by the 2.0 version. Does the new one last longer? Mine (1.0) needs replacing after 4 gallons...

071crazy 06-21-2011 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by Donat (Post 9286230)
1. Which servo saver arm is better? Losi or KHZ? KHZ seem to have smoother surface finish. That should extend life of the plastic element which the alu arm is in contact with. Am I right?
Which one do you recommend?

Either is fine. The servo saver spring weakens over time. replace all the plastics when you replace the spring.

Muggydude 06-21-2011 03:08 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Here's my Clocked B5 Pro Powered 8T 2.0!

Werks B5 Pro Engine (Clocked)
Werks 2013 Pipe
M2C Variable Weight Clutch
Aluminum Split Center Diff Mount
JR 9100S throttle Servo
JR 9100T steering Servo

I'm using a Hobbyking 2100mah 2s lipo for the receiver, but it was just slightly too big, so I had to mod the radio tray. May not look pretty, but it works great and the battery lasts forever.

Donat 06-22-2011 04:49 AM

Thanks for the answer!

I'm thinking of buying a quick change motor mount. The KHZ extended one seems to have the best reviews but I've got a few short questions.

1. Do I need a ball-end driver to take out the engine or a 'standard' one will be fine?
Werks B5 engine if it matters.

2. There is one negative review on amain in which it is said that the extension which supports fuel tank will damage it. Have you came across such an issue?

3. Is that true that extended motor mount extends lifetime of cluch bell bearings?

jnc011994 06-22-2011 06:15 AM


Originally Posted by Muggydude (Post 9287262)
Here's my Clocked B5 Pro Powered 8T 2.0!

Werks B5 Pro Engine (Clocked)
Werks 2013 Pipe
M2C Variable Weight Clutch
Aluminum Split Center Diff Mount
JR 9100S throttle Servo
JR 9100T steering Servo

I'm using a Hobbyking 2100mah 2s lipo for the receiver, but it was just slightly too big, so I had to mod the radio tray. May not look pretty, but it works great and the battery lasts forever.

try this bro... its small and fit with the Flat Cover...

http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN1413
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DYN1413

Muggydude 06-22-2011 08:03 AM

I'll probably pick one up later, but I got this one for like $5 on a hobbyking order in order to push it over $100, which gave me free shipping. Works well, I'm not going to bother until it takes a dump on me. But why would I go from 2100mah to 1300? Just saying. If I got a smaller one it would most likely be losi's.

Donat-I use the losi quick change mount and I like it because I can set the mesh once and be done with it. I personally don't use a ball end driver to take the engine out, but it would make it easier. The extended mount should reduce chassis flex, which in turn should help bearing life. However, I don't think the flex is as big a deal on the 1.0 truggy, but I may be wrong. I have no experience with the KHZ mount, so I can't help you there.

inferno13 06-22-2011 08:10 AM

this one fits nice also... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVLP0&P=7

if you decide to get a new one and need a new cover let me know, i have a bunch of extras.;)

Muggydude 06-22-2011 08:12 AM

Thanks man-I have a few of the flat covers laying around. I actually kind of like this setup because of the little extra weight and it provides easy access to charge it. Plus that battery is well cushioned!

air8 06-23-2011 06:53 PM

I've used the extended KHZ mpunt since back in '07 I think. Love it. It get's moved to all my truggies. Not sure how Mich it saves on clutch bearing wear, but it sure is quick to check them. Quick change mount is definitely recommended.

I have only used a straight hex driver for engine removal. I always tell myself I'll get a ball end driver but never seems to happen. But if the engine head will be larger than a Novarossi a ball end would be needed.

Trugsta 06-24-2011 06:15 PM

New DRAGON racing Flex Chassie and V2 rear tower.
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi all Just thought I'd post a few pics Of my new V2 tower and dragon racing flex chassie.
I havent had a chance to run this set up yet But I cant wait till I do.
I just have to re'do the ride height and she'll be sweet..


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