8T 2.0
No problemo bobbyblaze. 
06-05-2010 | 11:17 AM
#7607
k guys need opinions.
My dad bought a brand new 8t 2.0 off a buddy of ours who went to mugen after building this 8t. it has lighten outdrives, lightened 48 spur,v2 tower,alum chassis brace front and rear,alum servo saver top,+ 2mm Wheel Hexes all way around. and m2c hinge pin braces.
The first qualifer he broke the bell crank right below the servo saver top. wasnt a bad crash but i could see it. Second qualifer same thing, but this time i didnt see the crash, he talked with bill fisher and he gave him the plastic top. during his main the m2c brace broke in half, the bad thing is he didnt crash, it landed perfect on the downside of a jump, rolled the next and it broke. keep in mind i had his truck apart looking at his whole front end seeing if somethin was up and they didnt look damaged at all.
He said this truck is really twitchy, i havent driven it so idk. I told him it does need to break in but when i break in trucks its not like i cant drive it. he said his engine seems to have tons of power and other thing i cant come up with is the lightened out drives? but the 48 spur would counter act any bottom the lightened driveline gave him right?
I told him to take m2c stuff off put losi hinge pin brace on(not saying m2c is bad just didnt work for him, he has never broken a losi brace since 8t2.0 came out), told him replace the rear chassis brace with plastic. Is there anything else i am missing, i told him the +2mm extenders would make it more stable not twitchy right? Ive never driven the truck btw so i dont have first hand exp of the truck
My dad bought a brand new 8t 2.0 off a buddy of ours who went to mugen after building this 8t. it has lighten outdrives, lightened 48 spur,v2 tower,alum chassis brace front and rear,alum servo saver top,+ 2mm Wheel Hexes all way around. and m2c hinge pin braces.
The first qualifer he broke the bell crank right below the servo saver top. wasnt a bad crash but i could see it. Second qualifer same thing, but this time i didnt see the crash, he talked with bill fisher and he gave him the plastic top. during his main the m2c brace broke in half, the bad thing is he didnt crash, it landed perfect on the downside of a jump, rolled the next and it broke. keep in mind i had his truck apart looking at his whole front end seeing if somethin was up and they didnt look damaged at all.
He said this truck is really twitchy, i havent driven it so idk. I told him it does need to break in but when i break in trucks its not like i cant drive it. he said his engine seems to have tons of power and other thing i cant come up with is the lightened out drives? but the 48 spur would counter act any bottom the lightened driveline gave him right?
I told him to take m2c stuff off put losi hinge pin brace on(not saying m2c is bad just didnt work for him, he has never broken a losi brace since 8t2.0 came out), told him replace the rear chassis brace with plastic. Is there anything else i am missing, i told him the +2mm extenders would make it more stable not twitchy right? Ive never driven the truck btw so i dont have first hand exp of the truck
06-05-2010 | 11:25 AM
#7608
- clutch springs..
no matter what composite shoes your using, the theory behind springs is the softer the spring, the sooner the shoes engage the bell?
the stiffer the spring, the longer delay, higher REV engine, and more harsh engagement right?
so softer springs should allow shoes to wear less, and last longer since they're not being smoked, even though they're engaged sooner, correct?
one of the local pro's suggested i run 2 gold, and 2 green's on my long life losi shoes.
no matter what composite shoes your using, the theory behind springs is the softer the spring, the sooner the shoes engage the bell?
the stiffer the spring, the longer delay, higher REV engine, and more harsh engagement right?
so softer springs should allow shoes to wear less, and last longer since they're not being smoked, even though they're engaged sooner, correct?
one of the local pro's suggested i run 2 gold, and 2 green's on my long life losi shoes.
06-05-2010 | 11:29 AM
#7609
- clutch springs..
no matter what composite shoes your using, the theory behind springs is the softer the spring, the sooner the shoes engage the bell?
the stiffer the spring, the longer delay, higher REV engine, and more harsh engagement right?
so softer springs should allow shoes to wear less, and last longer since they're not being smoked, even though they're engaged sooner, correct?
one of the local pro's suggested i run 2 gold, and 2 green's on my long life losi shoes.
no matter what composite shoes your using, the theory behind springs is the softer the spring, the sooner the shoes engage the bell?
the stiffer the spring, the longer delay, higher REV engine, and more harsh engagement right?
so softer springs should allow shoes to wear less, and last longer since they're not being smoked, even though they're engaged sooner, correct?
one of the local pro's suggested i run 2 gold, and 2 green's on my long life losi shoes.
06-05-2010 | 11:45 AM
#7611
06-05-2010 | 12:40 PM
#7612
right now i only us the +2mm hex bubs on the rear for stability and on power traction out of the turn, for the front i use stock hubs..to me it steers better
clutch setups i just now getting the hang of ...right now im using long life shoes 2 green & 2 gold but going to try 4 gold for more punch for my ninja and for tires i fell in love witb aka's cityblocks & ibeams
clutch setups i just now getting the hang of ...right now im using long life shoes 2 green & 2 gold but going to try 4 gold for more punch for my ninja and for tires i fell in love witb aka's cityblocks & ibeams
06-05-2010 | 03:34 PM
#7613
k guys need opinions.
My dad bought a brand new 8t 2.0 off a buddy of ours who went to mugen after building this 8t. it has lighten outdrives, lightened 48 spur,v2 tower,alum chassis brace front and rear,alum servo saver top,+ 2mm Wheel Hexes all way around. and m2c hinge pin braces.
The first qualifer he broke the bell crank right below the servo saver top. wasnt a bad crash but i could see it. Second qualifer same thing, but this time i didnt see the crash, he talked with bill fisher and he gave him the plastic top. during his main the m2c brace broke in half, the bad thing is he didnt crash, it landed perfect on the downside of a jump, rolled the next and it broke. keep in mind i had his truck apart looking at his whole front end seeing if somethin was up and they didnt look damaged at all.
He said this truck is really twitchy, i havent driven it so idk. I told him it does need to break in but when i break in trucks its not like i cant drive it. he said his engine seems to have tons of power and other thing i cant come up with is the lightened out drives? but the 48 spur would counter act any bottom the lightened driveline gave him right?
I told him to take m2c stuff off put losi hinge pin brace on(not saying m2c is bad just didnt work for him, he has never broken a losi brace since 8t2.0 came out), told him replace the rear chassis brace with plastic. Is there anything else i am missing, i told him the +2mm extenders would make it more stable not twitchy right? Ive never driven the truck btw so i dont have first hand exp of the truck
My dad bought a brand new 8t 2.0 off a buddy of ours who went to mugen after building this 8t. it has lighten outdrives, lightened 48 spur,v2 tower,alum chassis brace front and rear,alum servo saver top,+ 2mm Wheel Hexes all way around. and m2c hinge pin braces.
The first qualifer he broke the bell crank right below the servo saver top. wasnt a bad crash but i could see it. Second qualifer same thing, but this time i didnt see the crash, he talked with bill fisher and he gave him the plastic top. during his main the m2c brace broke in half, the bad thing is he didnt crash, it landed perfect on the downside of a jump, rolled the next and it broke. keep in mind i had his truck apart looking at his whole front end seeing if somethin was up and they didnt look damaged at all.
He said this truck is really twitchy, i havent driven it so idk. I told him it does need to break in but when i break in trucks its not like i cant drive it. he said his engine seems to have tons of power and other thing i cant come up with is the lightened out drives? but the 48 spur would counter act any bottom the lightened driveline gave him right?
I told him to take m2c stuff off put losi hinge pin brace on(not saying m2c is bad just didnt work for him, he has never broken a losi brace since 8t2.0 came out), told him replace the rear chassis brace with plastic. Is there anything else i am missing, i told him the +2mm extenders would make it more stable not twitchy right? Ive never driven the truck btw so i dont have first hand exp of the truck
06-05-2010 | 04:37 PM
#7614
Losi Racer, I don't have any experience with the TL truggy, but I can surely say if you want to build a calm easy to drive truck, you don't want lightened driveline parts, that goes for any brand.
I can also say with confidence that no parts break with smooth flat landings, so most likely those parts were broken previously and not spotted during repairs at that time.
Sounds like Frank has you set with the bellcrank issues.
For easier driving truck, use lighter center diff oils and go lighter in all the diffs is a BIG change is needed. You can also lay the shocks in a hole if you have another one to go to inside.
The good news is it is easier to get a truggy hooked up then it is to get one to steer that doesn't want to!!! (Aside from using no front brakes, haha)
...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com
I can also say with confidence that no parts break with smooth flat landings, so most likely those parts were broken previously and not spotted during repairs at that time.
Sounds like Frank has you set with the bellcrank issues.
For easier driving truck, use lighter center diff oils and go lighter in all the diffs is a BIG change is needed. You can also lay the shocks in a hole if you have another one to go to inside.
The good news is it is easier to get a truggy hooked up then it is to get one to steer that doesn't want to!!! (Aside from using no front brakes, haha)
...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com
06-05-2010 | 05:15 PM
#7615
Lots of drivers have issues with the servo saver. I had issues with the 1.0 setup but not the 2.0 setup, these issues are due to the saver being set too tight. Take off the M2C stuff and go with the solid KHZ braces, it will cost more to make changes but the losi ones do break. I have had more than one DNF due to a busted plastic insert. The truck does need to break in. What fluid are you running? I have ran the +2mm on the truck for awhile and I like them. I dont think it makes the truck twitchy in any way.
Losi Racer, I don't have any experience with the TL truggy, but I can surely say if you want to build a calm easy to drive truck, you don't want lightened driveline parts, that goes for any brand.
I can also say with confidence that no parts break with smooth flat landings, so most likely those parts were broken previously and not spotted during repairs at that time.
Sounds like Frank has you set with the bellcrank issues.
For easier driving truck, use lighter center diff oils and go lighter in all the diffs is a BIG change is needed. You can also lay the shocks in a hole if you have another one to go to inside.
The good news is it is easier to get a truggy hooked up then it is to get one to steer that doesn't want to!!! (Aside from using no front brakes, haha)
...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com
I can also say with confidence that no parts break with smooth flat landings, so most likely those parts were broken previously and not spotted during repairs at that time.
Sounds like Frank has you set with the bellcrank issues.
For easier driving truck, use lighter center diff oils and go lighter in all the diffs is a BIG change is needed. You can also lay the shocks in a hole if you have another one to go to inside.
The good news is it is easier to get a truggy hooked up then it is to get one to steer that doesn't want to!!! (Aside from using no front brakes, haha)
...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com
i told him the lightened driveline will make it more responsive , when i put it on my truggy i loved it, i told him to use it for a gallon so the truck breaks in and see how it feels after that
06-05-2010 | 05:18 PM
#7616
Jim the losi lightened drivetrain parts are actually stronger and more resistant to wear them the stock parts. Now manke no mistake I am talking about the losi parts. I have tried fioroni lightened parts and I won't maketyat mistake again. On the steering servo saver I actually run all 2.0 parts spring included and they have been good to me. Loosen up the saver that solves allthe issues.
06-05-2010 | 07:43 PM
#7618
Yes ditch the alumin braces. I actually believe you bought my truck. Did you get it from Vareck? If so it didn't have those braces on it when he got it. It also had a 1.0 servo saver setup on it that is reversed so the horn faces out on the truck instead of in.
06-05-2010 | 08:18 PM
#7619
he got rid of the rear. front is good on any track. it keeps the flex out of the radio tray at the steering servo. it doesnt affect handling what so ever. Billy fisher gave me this tip and been running this way for a long time now
