no the arms,

how they bend lower toward that chassis?

Man is it hard to understand some of your posts.

When setting ride height you want to set it so that the gauge will just barely touch the bottom of the chassis. That will give you an accurate setting. If you are saying you can't get that in the rear end, it sounds like you have too much ride height/preload. Also use 1/2 tank of fuel not a full tank when setting ride height. And lastly, for the setting to actually be accurate, you should wait till right after a run to set your ride height. This allows the suspension and shock oils to reach they're "running temperature" and gives you a true ride height setting. If you set ride height while sitting in your cool house and take it out to a track on a hot day, your settings will be off. Best way is to set it right after a run. If you can't do that, at least set it trackside in the ambient temperature of that race day. Some good ride height setting 101 for you there.

I still don't fully comprehend your issue.

[QUOTE=JAMMINKRAZY;7498584]: Man is it hard to understand some of your posts.

When setting ride height you want to set it so that the gauge will just barely touch the bottom of the chassis. That will give you an accurate setting. If you are saying you can't get that in the rear end, it sounds like you have too much ride height/preload. Also use 1/2 tank of fuel not a full tank when setting ride height. And lastly, for the setting to actually be accurate, you should wait till right after a run to set your ride height. This allows the suspension and shock oils to reach they're "running temperature" and gives you a true ride height setting. If you set ride height while sitting in your cool house and take it out to a track on a hot day, your settings will be off. Best way is to set it right after a run. If you can't do that, at least set it trackside in the ambient temperature of that race day. Some good ride height setting 101 for you there.






oh ok yea i was measure the ride height with a full tank at my house.

sorry for not saying clearly what im talking about i was trying too.

I still don't fully comprehend your issue

inbox me gentelman.

Is there any reason to run HD diff cases anywere on the 2.0?
They weigh alot more than the standard.

Have you had a standard one fail? I haven't.

I Run HD's in truggy and E-buggy....buggy the standards, They do still wear and need replacing every once in a while but they aren't like the 1.0 days of the cups wearing Very prematurely.

I have had a center crack in the truggy but never in the rear. I have been running sd in the front but just switched over going to try out on sun at a club race.

I am installing the front adjustable hinge pins, need to know what the stock setting would be, Thanks

I am pretty sure its zero's in front and rear.(holes in the middle)

You are correct Fabtech813...All zero's for stock.

jammin,integra,frank &others you guys on point...this thread is over 500 pages of infomation on the truggy inside out ...when i use to run my crt x2 i just run but switch to losi and read this thread every other hour or so you guys helped out alot making me understand the technical stand point of the truck ..so guys i wanna say thanks

Aw shucks!

Not a problem man! That's what we're here for.