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Old 08-03-2010 | 07:40 AM
  #8356  
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When I put my inclined spindles and blocks on I lost about a 1/3 of steering throw on each side so I just took them back off has anybody else had this problem
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Old 08-03-2010 | 08:11 AM
  #8357  
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Thanks very much for posting up the pictures. I just noted that these were for the aluminium 12 deg spindles. Would this mod with these measurements still work with the standard plastic steering setup or would it be too weak???

Thanks Again????
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Old 08-03-2010 | 08:24 AM
  #8358  
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Originally Posted by Jammin57
When I put my inclined spindles and blocks on I lost about a 1/3 of steering throw on each side so I just took them back off has anybody else had this problem
Look at big pics on the previous page
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Old 08-03-2010 | 08:42 AM
  #8359  
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Originally Posted by 071crazy
Look at big pics on the previous page
I know how to get more steering out of them that's not what I asked. When I put mine on my truck it has maybe 2/3 of steeering throw as what the stock plastic ones have so I asked if anybody else had the same problems???
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Old 08-03-2010 | 08:53 AM
  #8360  
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Originally Posted by Jammin57
I know how to get more steering out of them that's not what I asked. When I put mine on my truck it has maybe 2/3 of steeering throw as what the stock plastic ones have so I asked if anybody else had the same problems???
Yeah they don't turn as far as the plastic ones do. That's normal, and the reason for the mod previously posted. I run my 10 degree inclined setup without the mod and with the short ackerman plate and the truck is beyond dialed.
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Old 08-03-2010 | 09:14 AM
  #8361  
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My truck still drove good with them but I lost alot of steeering, I just wasn't sure if everybodys was the same way or just mine. Seems like losi needs to redesign the spindles so you don't have to grind on them just to get the stock steering throw back
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Old 08-03-2010 | 09:23 AM
  #8362  
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Yep they need some time to break in after being rebuilt. You can break the diffs in the way the manual explains to help accelerate the process, but they will still need some break-in on the track to feel perfect.
I couldnt believe the difference by the A-main the kits was super dialed using 95 percent of your setup loving the feel very predictable.
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Old 08-03-2010 | 09:27 AM
  #8363  
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Originally Posted by bigjayjay1
I couldnt believe the difference by the A-main the kits was super dialed using 95 percent of your setup loving the feel very predictable.
Yeah it is really predictably and easy to drive, while still being very fast. I've also since switched to 35wt oil in the rear. Also gone to the EU vented shock caps with the foam compensators cut in half and chamfered(edges rounded off) on the bladder side. 1/2 rebound front and rear. Loving it even more now.
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Old 08-03-2010 | 09:41 AM
  #8364  
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Yeah it is really predictably and easy to drive, while still being very fast. I've also since switched to 35wt oil in the rear. Also gone to the EU vented shock caps with the foam compensators cut in half and chamfered(edges rounded off) on the bladder side. 1/2 rebound front and rear. Loving it even more now.
With this setup the roll is perfect I'm able to hit corners tight with a hard exit on plane do you decrease roll with 35wt / shock mod with 35wt are you seeing more forward traction? Im racing were some parts are high traction.
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Old 08-03-2010 | 10:12 AM
  #8365  
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Originally Posted by bigjayjay1
With this setup the roll is perfect I'm able to hit corners tight with a hard exit on plane do you decrease roll with 35wt / shock mod with 35wt are you seeing more forward traction? Im racing were some parts are high traction.
The 35wt just took some of the squat out of the rear on power. It has generates more on power steering and helps the truck land larger jumps without "bouncing" as much. I find that it is just more planted overall with the 35wt front and rear.
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Old 08-03-2010 | 11:43 AM
  #8366  
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Jam, are you running the shorter chamber links in the rear?
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Old 08-03-2010 | 12:10 PM
  #8367  
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Originally Posted by l3asher
Jam, are you running the shorter chamber links in the rear?
Yeah running 105/107mm links in the inner lower on the tower and A on the hub.
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Old 08-03-2010 | 12:18 PM
  #8368  
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Jammin I'm on my phone or k would look.on ur set up what's. N the rear ,I'm runnin 30 and I run 40 up front,I tried 35 and 37.5 and didn't like it unless the track was loomy and blown out then I went to 37.5
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Old 08-03-2010 | 12:21 PM
  #8369  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
Jammin I'm on my phone or k would look.on ur set up what's. N the rear ,I'm runnin 30 and I run 40 up front,I tried 35 and 37.5 and didn't like it unless the track was loomy and blown out then I went to 37.5
I'm running 35wt front and rear with #55 pistons in the front, #56's in the rear and the vented caps. My sheet says 32.5 in the rear, but I have since gone up to 35.
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Old 08-03-2010 | 12:48 PM
  #8370  
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I love the caps on my truggy I hate them on buggy tho, I won't s
drill the caps n my new buggy
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