The screws that go through the shock tower towards the rear into the loc nuts in the wing mount. You need 5/8" screws. Losi makes some cap head 5-40 x 5/8" screws that work(ones I use).

As for the toe deal, I use all 0's up front, and for the rear, 0's in the back block, and 1's up in the foreward block. That will give you 3 degrees of toe in the rear, and stock for everything else. That is what Drake says atleast.

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/Drake8ightT2.pdf

i just loctited the wing mount screws, no problems here

+1 on the loctite. I haven't had any issues since I did this. I have seen guys drill out into the wing stay and use longer screws all the way into the staynpast the nuts but I don't think it's actually necessary. I have installed some longer screws where I have had problems.

Ive used the King Headz for about 3 years now and I lve them The best life so far on the 7075s with 2 gold 2 silver springs is 11 gallons the shoes out lasted a Werks b7 pro

+1 on the king headz shoes. I tried out the 6061 shoes with 4 gold springs. I had 30 min of practice, a 15 min b main and 23 min of an a main until a dnf due to a throttle servo. When I checked the clutch it was hardly wore. I think it depends on the engine. When I ran grp's they ate clutch shoes not see why. Now I have been running a speed and it feels lie it has more power and seems to be easier on the clutch shoes. I think I'll stck with ing headz.

softer the bottom end of a motor the easier it will be on shoes as long as they have the proper spring's to match. :nod:

If your getting real good life out of your clutch mean's you have the combo smack on. :nod:

Definately agree with the KHZ shoes. Only thing I will run if running aluminum(rare for me). I personally run fioroni turbo twin 2007 systems, but when I ran the losi setups, I used KHZ 7075 shoes with 4 gold for truggy and 2 gold/2 green for buggy. The OS motors, having more bottom end will definately be easier on the clutch. You can run less stall and still have enough snap for a truggy. :nod:

What position is the "1"'s and "0"'s in the rear???

1's up in the foreward rear block, and 0's(can only be in the middle) in the back rear block.:nod:

the chart says it all.


Rear Toe-In adjustment
Position....Insert #....total toe-IN....REAL total

Inside........1.............1............1.65
Inside........0.5..........1.5.........2.15
Middle........0.............2............2.70
Outside......0.5..........2.5..........3.25
Outside......1.............3.............3.80




Rear Anti adjustment
Position....Insert #....total Anti....REAL total

UP..........1...............3............3.15
UP.........0.5.............2.5..........2.60
Middle......0.............2.............2.05
Down.......0.5.........1.5...........1.50
Down.......1.............1.............0.95

i goen to buy a losi 8t 2.0 the hop ups needed much the same as the buggy ?

I would say yes. Alum top plate, Alum spindles, J-Dub modded rear hubs or king headz rear hubs (for the larger outer bearing size, alum servo saver top and thats about it. You can add alum hinge pin blocks it you want but prob not necessary. Whatever you do leave the plastic front and rear chassis braces in unless the track is very smooth the alum ones kill the tuned flex chassis.

Humm I didn't know that about the chassis braces frank. Good to know. I guess I should maybe take mine off huh. LOL And I guess I do have to replace me rear hub bearings. Just noticed it this morning. Putting in another 7955tg for brake/throttle and tire was moving just a little too much when I bumped it.

Frank, why is the steering rack important in alum ?...i Always see you recommend them but why ?

If I have ever broken a part that caused a DNF then I try to replace it with an alum upgrade, after that no more DNF for failure of that part.