Plus making sure you keep the standard screws/nuts seperate from your metric screws/nuts. The PITA is when you are wrenching on two cars at the track and they have totally different hardware/screws/nuts.

If it doesn't bother you, then so be it. I think it is a PITA. Not big enough to prevent me from owning the truck, but it is one of those little things that annoys the hell out of me. Kind of like lipo mfg not standardizing balancing taps.

Dooohh...

Not at all, still over a week to go to the first round. Plenty of time to take the car out and dial it in to my driving.

Bascially, I have been driving an Xray XT8 and on Sunday gone, I had to work darn hard to stay in front of a less experienced driver with a Losi 8T 2.0. Not that I am a great driver by any stretch of the imagination. I watched him driving it around and it looked so planted and could carry so much speed through the corners effortlessly. The XT8 on the other hand takes so much effort to put in fast laps and even then I was only matching or just beating him on times.

I took some time out today to read through a few pages, got another 40 or so left, hehe. Seems like the bearings are an issue with these trucks. I did notice that out the box, they have so much slop on them.

I have drawn up a quick list of the additional items to purchase, perhaps you can tell me if I am wasting my time with the add-ons.

Front hinge pin braces LOSA1754
Rear hinge pin braces LOSA1755
Losi screw kit 8T LOSA6140
Quick release engine mount LOSA9155

It also seems that I need to loosen the servo saver and or purchase the
aluminium servo saver arm. Other spares like diff gears , arms, etc. will be added to the list as a just in case.

I have also seen that they like to use up CB bearings regularly. Is this an issue as I tend to change mine after every race day anyway?

Thanks in advance.

bearing issue is hit and miss...some have problem's some done....but J-Dub can hook you up with some modded hubs to solve that....the 4 hop-up's you listed are great...the adjustable toe plates are Very nice piece's and the quick change mount is always nice to have but i would change to the KH version not the losi...and screw's are always important to have if you have none...,...i would recommend the 1.0 saver spring and tighten it by feel...the top saver is something i also think is critical to have as the stocker can break very easy even with the saver set properly. :nod:

Rear shocks
 

I've enjoyed reading every page of this thread - but I have one question that I need help with...

My 8ight T 2.0 just arrived the other day - with two broken shock rod ends (as predicted). So I am in the process of rebuilding the entire truck as a result. I'm too picky!

One weird thing I noticed is when rebuilding the rear shocks after tightening the rod end down, the shaft (when fully compressed) is sticking out past the top of the shock body.

The piston sits almost an 1/8" of an inch past the top of the shock body. I've put a small piece of fuel tubing as a limiter to prevent it from ripping the bladder... Is this normal?
I'm using the rod ends from a 1.0 rebuild kit (I assumed they are the same).

I've posted this same question on truggyracers - but I was hoping to get an answer from a larger, more experienced group of racers!

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks for the info Integra, will take that all one board. I will be picking it up on Friday and will go ahead and strip it all down and rebuild it from the ground up. Better that way, at least then I know what I got on the track instead of wondering.

My other choice was the Hong Nor / Jammin X2, which is really easy to drive, but the Losi just looks better on the track.

From a driving point of view, how settled is the rear? The one thing I hated about the XT8 is that I had to run the rear so loose to get it to turn in properly.

Check it once you have the shock boots on. They will limit the travel slightly. I did notice the shafts seemed a bit long for the bodies. Been running like that for a bit, without a problem.

I agree with Integra about the engine mount. I actually use the KHZ extended mount myself.

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=4251

The rod ends are the same, they just raised the lip on the spring cups on the 2.0's (definately needed). Once you complely assemble the lower portion of the shock (end, boot & cup), the piston won't be as high up in the shock body.

From my first weekend of racing my 8T-2.0, I learned the following:

REPLACE the rear shock ends!!! Mine didn't last 1/4 tank, and lost a spring in the process.

REMOVE all inner camber link mounting screws and loctite them (5-40x3/4"). Someone mentioned earlier about replacing them with 7/8" screws, also a good idea.

Also, somehow I bent the rear pivot plate, causing the inner hingepin to come out. I don't know if this is another weakness or just my driving (LOL), but I'm installing the Losi adjustable pivot plates since they are thicker and machined, not stamped.

Oh, did I mention that this truck is FAST!!!! I love it, despite the issues so far... :D:D:D

Zapped - what track do you race at?

you need to work out your reading comprehension. this was not aimed at only you. it was aimed at all the people that think that way.
how is it a PITA to carry 7 more tools when you most likely already carry close to 50 tools anyway

Losi even include the tools for you
and there screw kit comes in a divided box

what more do people want from losi apart from a private lesson from Adam Drake

hello there!!!
i'm thinking about getting a new 8T 2.0 RTR, what the basic diferences about the 2.0T RR for 2.0T RtR???

thanks!

Parts from Eight T 1.0 that will fit Eight T 2.0?
 

Hey all! I have the original Eight truggy and have spent some $$$ on upgrades over the last year. I am now thinking about buying the 2.0 and just wondering if most of my upgrades will work on the 2.0 so I don't have to start all over again! I have the following upgrades and they seem to be listed as option parts on the 2.0 but I just want to confirm:
LOSA4440- Alumn front top brace
LOSA4417- Rear Alumn Chassis brace
LOSA4416- Front Alumn Chassis brace
LOSA1708- Alumn Front Spindle
LOSA1711- Alumn Front Spindle Carriers
Losi front and rear adjustable hinge pin holders

Yeah all of those will work on the 2.0. Throw those aluminum braces away though. They are garbage. They stiffen the chassis and remove alot of handling. There is a reason for the TFT style chassis, and those braces do just the opposite.:nod:

+1 on the alum braces stiffening the chassis. I ran the 2.0 with the plastic and then with the alum and I got rid of the alum front and rear brace the truck is so much more stable with the plastic braces, I carry an extra pair because I expect them to break. The alum top plate and alum front spindle are ok. The spindle carrier makes the truck heavier and I have never seen a spindle carrier break so I would say its not necessary.

The spindle carriers do add some weight, but it is right over the front wheels. This gives the front wheels more traction, which will give a hair more steering. I run them on mine. Not sure if they are really nessicary, but they are nice!:nod: