shim properly and the aluminum rear gearbox bearing inserts have worked wonders for the rear ring and pinion gears:nod:

This topic is probably the most covered in this thred. Its also the biggest weekness of this truck. Proper shimming is key to a long and healthy diff life. I just sold my truck and have had the same ring and pinion in it since it was new over 2 years ago. Shim a brand new diff tight. By brand new, I mean ring, pinion, all 4 bearings, and case and inserts. After about 15-20 minutes of running, check it for abnormal wear. if its looks and feels good, regrease and check it everyother race weekend. It should spin freely but have ZERO play between the gears! Its ot a 1/10th scale spur and pinion.

I love this place. I keep learning great stuff about this truck. When the time comes for diff replacement, I know what to do. Thanks!!!

Next, the servo issue I had. The inserts that came with the purchase (got the whole thing used) were indeed for futaba/savox but I couldn't use them. The inserts in/on the stock servo horns are metal. The plastic ones wouldn't fit inside the horns or the metal inserts either. I had nothing that would fit.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8492/8...3989c2cb9a.jpg
SO..... I reamed out the holes on the Protek aluminum servo horn I got, shaved the linkages a bit and it's in!! Works perfect!!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8071/8...cd8de83ecf.jpg

Next question: About digital servos..... Do they always "whine" in the nuetral position?
Also, how can I keep the radio treat from flexing so much?
Thanks

They usually make some noise. If you are using the gen3 tray though try to limit the noise as much as possible for the throttle/brake servo with the linkage. I keep mine loose enough so the linkage moves easily on the on the ball ends.

Nope, Gen 2 tray. It sounds like it's really trying to find perfect neutral but it's just a hair away. Like something is holding back. I can only think that it's the friction in the slide carb that is the cause because I can fiddle with the throttle trim and it stops.

My next main concern is limiting the flex in the tray. I'm thinking maybe attaching "legs" to a couple of spots.

If the spring is to long it puts a little tension on the servo. The more remain the louder the servo.

i just picked up a used 8ight t 2.0 race roller version. while im goin through it whats some areas i should make sure to take a really good look at for wear? parts i should automatically replace? any tips would be really appreciated! thanks

back to nitro now

Can I use THIS on my 8ight 1.0 model? All i need is engine, mount, clutch and bell, and Im good to go.

The very basic thing to do with ANY used vehicle is to put fresh fluids in the diffs and the shocks. While your in the diff cases check the bearings and also reshim the diffs if they are too loose. Then check your outdrives and cvd pins for any excessive wear and replace if need be. I would buy the HD lightened outdrives if I had to put new ones in. They are tough and lower the rotational mass for better acceleration.

Other than those things just give everything a good look over. Replace any worn screws or other things. Bearings are only $1 each at Avid so putting all new bearings in is a great thing to do with any used vehicle as well.

thanks for the tips! where can i pick up shim kits at? the avid bearings sound like a good deal might just change them all. seem like a decent bearing?

got it all set uplast night time to get the b5 motor ran in now

Amain should have the shims in stock. I will go see if I can find them for you. As far as Avid bearings they are the best for the money I think. TONS of people run them. Their Revolution bearing is what most run. It's rubber shielded on one side and metal shielded on the other. They also sell complete kits for vehicles so you don't have to look up every bearing.

http://avidrc.com/

Here's the kit you would need:

http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=2...me=8ight-T+2.0

Here's the Losi gearbox shims for the 8ight T 2.0:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Shims-8IGHT-20

and, buy a digital caliper...comes in handy to measure shim thickness. they dont come labeled, that for sure...


this is the caliper that i've used for years for many rc related stuff...
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...per-47257.html