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-   -   8T 2.0 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/256312-8t-2-0-a.html)

dirtdog 09-17-2012 09:05 AM

After reading through this forum i am a little confused. Just picked up a used 2.0 and am trying to decide whos setup to use. Drake? Seems like there is some disagreements on whos setup. setup would be for outdoor hard packed med traction dirt Thanks guys -Tim

sickpuppy1 09-17-2012 09:25 AM

The idea setup really depends on you and your track. But as a good starting point the Drake set is hard to beat, and then fine tune it for you track.

dirtdog 09-17-2012 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by sickpuppy1 (Post 11220220)
The idea setup really depends on you and your track. But as a good starting point the Drake set is hard to beat, and then fine tune it for you track.

The one from 2009 on losis site?

nitrokiller123 09-18-2012 08:45 AM

Rear DIff Help
 
Hey folks, I got a few questions for you more experienced 8T2.0 owners

My rear diff started "clicking" when I applied the brakes while moving at a decent speed, I started seeing metal dust inside of my diff casing, so I figured the pinion and gear were jumping around, but it seemed like it was only when braking.

I added shims to where I felt like there was not as much movement.... I also added shims under the small pinion gear to bring it closer to the ring gear.

Well, at the A main last weekend, the rear diff just gave out. The pinion was pretty much chewed up or almost flattenned. The ring gear suffered some damage as well.

1) Is this common for this truck? is this one of THOSE issues that are very much known?

2) What's the solution?

My gameplan now is: aluminum diff inserts, new diff bearings, new pinion and ring gear set.

How are you guys shimming these brand new? or has losi resolved this issue somehow with changes to the parts?

Thank you so much for your help, in advance. any input is highly appreciated guys. Help me get back on the road!

Klimpen717 09-18-2012 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by KingdomRacer (Post 11217287)
I called Horizon the other day about needing just the drag link screw and was told that no one else has called about needing just the screw...
Don't know for sure if the guy was telling the truth but seriously guys pick up the phone sometimes and tell them what you need instead of always running to the forum for help.
The guy said if more people had actually complained about needing just the screw that it would be available by now is where I'm coming from, just sayin.
What I'm getting at is we should not have to buy a whole drag link kit for just a screw is nonsense and should be something that they should make available, period.

I'm living in Sweden you know, so making a long distance call just to inform them I need a screw is not gonna happen.
The forum is the ONLY way I get in touch with RC people. Where I live there's not many that drive RC and there is NO LHS available. If I would want to visit a LHS I would have to spend about 3.5 hours on a ship and another 2 hours by car and then spend the night away from home before going home again.
On the forums I find everything I need knowledge-wise and everything else I have to order from the mainland or from the UK or US and maybe Germany.

8T 09-18-2012 10:58 AM


Originally Posted by nitrokiller123 (Post 11224428)
Hey folks, I got a few questions for you more experienced 8T2.0 owners

My rear diff started "clicking" when I applied the brakes while moving at a decent speed, I started seeing metal dust inside of my diff casing, so I figured the pinion and gear were jumping around, but it seemed like it was only when braking.

I added shims to where I felt like there was not as much movement.... I also added shims under the small pinion gear to bring it closer to the ring gear.

Well, at the A main last weekend, the rear diff just gave out. The pinion was pretty much chewed up or almost flattenned. The ring gear suffered some damage as well.

1) Is this common for this truck? is this one of THOSE issues that are very much known?

Yes, fairly common!

2) What's the solution?

Shim the diff a little tight and let it wear in.

My gameplan now is: aluminum diff inserts, new diff bearings, new pinion and ring gear set.

Replace the case too!

How are you guys shimming these brand new? or has losi resolved this issue somehow with changes to the parts?

Shim it a little tight, it will wear in. When it's together it should feel a little notchy, not smooth, but not really hard to spin either. I'm not aware of anything that Losi has changed other than the aluminium diff inserts. I've been running my truggy for the last 4 years and have only had one diff go bad. Kinda funny, because 2 other guys i race with had their diffs go out with in a week from each other. None of us has had any trouble before that or since then. One frien even put a screw in the side of the case to try to stop the pinion from moving around.(didn't work, his diff was already going out)

Thank you so much for your help, in advance. any input is highly appreciated guys. Help me get back on the road!

Hope this helps!

sickpuppy1 09-18-2012 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by dirtdog (Post 11221954)
The one from 2009 on losis site?

2011 set up http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...d2011truck.pdf

dirtdog 09-18-2012 04:18 PM

How can I tell if I have the v2 rear tower?

jnorwood_losi 09-18-2012 04:25 PM


Originally Posted by dirtdog (Post 11226207)
How can I tell if I have the v2 rear tower?

Only the rear tower can be V2, if it is Alum. it will say V2 on the back, but the Carbon tower is also "V2" geometry. Either way the simple way to tell, it will have 4 options holes for the shocks instead of 3

dirtdog 09-18-2012 05:45 PM

Ok. So worth getting it stating that he uses that 4 th hole?

dirtdog 09-18-2012 06:05 PM

Also is there a parts list for the parts he's using there i.e. The 10 degree inclinded spindles And castor blocks? Adjustable pivots? And the lrc rear pivot? Sorry for all the noob questions. I have been Reading around this forum for the answeres...

sickpuppy1 09-18-2012 08:34 PM

For someone just getting into it, no. Just run it mostly stock for now, and get it set up. The other parts will come as you get better and can benefit from them, right now it wouldnt help you and it lots more money. Use that money for Fuel, tires and practice...Lots and lots of practice

iVTEC4LIFE 09-18-2012 10:07 PM


Originally Posted by sickpuppy1 (Post 11227359)
For someone just getting into it, no. Just run it mostly stock for now, and get it set up. The other parts will come as you get better and can benefit from them, right now it wouldnt help you and it lots more money. Use that money for Fuel, tires and practice...Lots and lots of practice

This.

This is what I'm doing. Just got my 2.0rtr a few weeks ago and I'm mainly getting a feel for it and getting stuff that I know I'll need for maintainance. Wheels, tires, clutch parts, mud gaurds, etc. I have all the other goodies on the wish list for later.

BlueStreakOne 09-20-2012 04:36 AM


Originally Posted by iVTEC4LIFE (Post 11227660)
This.

This is what I'm doing. Just got my 2.0rtr a few weeks ago and I'm mainly getting a feel for it and getting stuff that I know I'll need for maintainance. Wheels, tires, clutch parts, mud gaurds, etc. I have all the other goodies on the wish list for later.

Some of the option parts are a matter of preference, not weight or durability e.g. the lrc rear hinge pin brace. It seems most people prefer the lrc version but if you run on a very high speed track, I usually do, you might prefer the other one. The roll center is higher but the cg is lower. I prefer adjusting roll center with the upper links because lowering the roll center there also lowers the cg. The degree of caster in your front spindles and whether you choose inclined or not are other examples of parts that depend on how and where you run.

Quad Racer 34 09-27-2012 08:12 PM

Hey guys, I have a few sets of truggy tires for sale.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...epts-losi.html

If you're wanting just one set, I'll will sell.


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