Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Kyosho's are the shiznit but they'll cost you a kidney

RC8 boots are much cheaper and work fine, they are just a tad thick so you have to force the shock cup above them slightly.

the stock boots are too fragile for anything but the cleanest blue-groove US tracks... any stone or pebble makes a mess out of them in 10mns... and they're expensive too!

Paul

Andy Z

iTrader: (9)

[QUOTE=morgoth;7679251]I wonder how much weight he lost with shaving...

Pics of his extreme weight shaving:



I assume they dont make those graphite side flaps right?

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

[QUOTE=Andy Z;7699462]
you can buy some (or their twins) from Matteo Dapporto (Top-pilot from Italy). He's asking 50$ + s&H iirc. Google him and you should find him

But honestly, it'll only shave a few grams... I'd rather buy me a set of tires or a gallon of fuel...

Paul

morgoth

What are your thoughts on these clutchbells? I'm running electric but I have clutch setup because I like the softer feel of a clutch. I need a 14T and 15T clutchbell tho, so I was looking at the models of awnser rc.

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/ANSCB0014.html
http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/ANSCBV014.html

benamin

iTrader: (1)

It's actually kinda funny cause at my track last year with the losi I got tired of the one race boots and started using balloons. So when I got the 6t I bought one spare set of boots and expected to go to ballons after that. So far all season I have not ripped a single boot so I thought Mugen were the boots to get!

MadRussian

iTrader: (3)

I have yet to rip a boot of my Mugen buggy or Truggy and I am trying to recall, but I think only one of our Team Drivers has ripped one, so I would say they are pretty durable

RandyJones

iTrader: (27)

I build Tyler's shocks how they are in the manual. As far as how much rebound, I would say it is probably around 25%. Have never really measured it. I just verifiy they all rebound same amount and keep an eye on how fast they rebound. One thing I do is, when I am ready to tighten the cap, hold the shock at an angle at which the bleeder hole is the highest point,hold the cap in that position and tighten the body into the cap. Have done this for years with all shocks and have never had any issues with shocks on any 1/8 scale vehicle.

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys n gals, any chance somebody can hit me up with the part numbers for the brake pads and disks???

Big KAT

iTrader: (1)

Pads E0319
Disks C0354

Wild Thing

Would love to know what you are doing to them to get that result............ everyone that I know of in Australia (including Renuad) are lucky to get a couple of meets out of the mugen boots.

Cheers

Mark

wfo

iTrader: (6)

+1 boots on any car suck.... I would go through them on my 2.0 now my mbx 6 are eating them up also , @7.50 a set its a money maker . I have been using balloons (260Q )size cut to length they last about 2-3 race but for 6.00/100 they will last all year...

MadRussian

iTrader: (3)

nothing special, I wish I could say I have a secret, but I dont.
Maybe its the tracks I race on?
I have had other buggies/truggies that have ripped theirs on the same tracks though, so I really dont know.

I have a M-Spec Truggy and buggy, our Team has a variety of kits/M-Specs.

smracer31

iTrader: (6)

Converted my mbx6 to a Short course. Still waiting for the proper wheels and tires.

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

Shock boots suck, especially the mugen ones....I bought my M-spec on Friday, raced it on saturday and came home with ripped boots......

Andy Z

iTrader: (9)

[QUOTE=Lonestar;7699559]Was looking to get them more for the look. Thanks for the info!