Like Tree3Likes

Mugen MBX6

Old 07-22-2010, 06:41 PM
  #8296  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (359)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,523
Trader Rating: 359 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MadRussian
Our new t-shirt design
nice may have to order one
jmoneym is offline  
Old 07-22-2010, 07:14 PM
  #8297  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TonysScrews
New Mugen E0185 Aluminum Rear Arm Mount looks VERY nice!

These are gonna go very fast!

Ordered mine along with some other Aluminum goodies.
Speedychris22 is offline  
Old 07-22-2010, 07:34 PM
  #8298  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (36)
 
awdcameolsx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 591
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MadRussian
Our new t-shirt design
When is this gona be available? I WANA BUY ONE!!!
awdcameolsx is offline  
Old 07-22-2010, 08:30 PM
  #8299  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
MadRussian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 2,378
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

About 3 weeks on the shirts, we will have black on white and white on black t-shirts available. Like our RaceMugen shirts the logo will be on the front and back.
When our graphic artist e-mailed it to me I was like
MadRussian is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 02:56 AM
  #8300  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
dishsoap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,460
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys I have 2 problems going on.

The first one is the diffs. I love my mugen but I am tired of the diffs only lasting 4 race days. I know when they are shot because the whole drive line starts to stiffen up. Its really staring to piss me off.

The middle diff is the worst. I serviced all of them tonight and I was not surprised that the middle diff had virtually no oil left. It was almost dry.

From day one I have rebuilt them by using the mobile 1 synthetic grease with new gaskets and new o rings. I know some have said to use the tony's o rings but I have a hard time believing that one o ring will solve the problem. Those of you that are using the tony's o rings is there still ample fluid after many race days.


The 2nd problem.

I am having a hard time rebuilding the shocks. I build them will full rebound however once they are all built and put back together I check how much rebound I have and the shock will only come back down a half inch.

I am clueless on the shocks.
dishsoap is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 02:59 AM
  #8301  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
dishsoap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,460
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dreaux
i like it alot. And if they would of had it out when i got my m2c one, i might have got that instead.
Dreaux I still think the m2c ones are better just for the simple fact that the pins are captured not having to worry about getting the nuts back on. I wonder why mugen would not build a system that has captured pins.

Is anyone running the aluminum rear hubs. If so whats your thoughts? I am digging on those Fioroni rear hubs in blue.
dishsoap is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 04:15 AM
  #8302  
Tech Elite
 
morgoth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 2,943
Default

Originally Posted by dishsoap
Hey guys I have 2 problems going on.

The first one is the diffs. I love my mugen but I am tired of the diffs only lasting 4 race days. I know when they are shot because the whole drive line starts to stiffen up. Its really staring to piss me off.

The middle diff is the worst. I serviced all of them tonight and I was not surprised that the middle diff had virtually no oil left. It was almost dry.

From day one I have rebuilt them by using the mobile 1 synthetic grease with new gaskets and new o rings. I know some have said to use the tony's o rings but I have a hard time believing that one o ring will solve the problem. Those of you that are using the tony's o rings is there still ample fluid after many race days.


The 2nd problem.

I am having a hard time rebuilding the shocks. I build them will full rebound however once they are all built and put back together I check how much rebound I have and the shock will only come back down a half inch.

I am clueless on the shocks.
I fill my shocks with the damper ends 100% down. Then screw the caps on the shocks very slowly while holding the bleeding hole at the highest point. After they are tighenend, I have are 7/8 rebound and left and right are always the same if I do this. I want 100% reboud, you need screw them faster together than they can bleed, but it's hard to get same rebound on both sides then.

For the diffs. Yes, that O-ring is only seal your diffs have, so a thicker O ring will help against leaking. Just buy those Tony O-ring and try them. You can't go wrong for 3.50$.
morgoth is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 04:56 AM
  #8303  
Tech Master
iTrader: (54)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 54 (100%+)
Default

For the diffs, yes, replace the oring. Problem is the stock oring is not fat enough, so it starts to leak easy. Tony's oring are slightly bigger, no more leaks.

For the shocks, I have always heard that you build them dead so that is what I do, almost no rebound.
jsmax is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 05:31 AM
  #8304  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 555
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dishsoap
Is anyone running the aluminum rear hubs. If so whats your thoughts? I am digging on those Fioroni rear hubs in blue.
I ran them on the truck and ended up breaking the outer hinge pins3 times. Put the plastic ones back on and no problems. Just no give with the aluminum.



Originally Posted by dishsoap
Hey guys I have 2 problems going on.

The first one is the diffs. I love my mugen but I am tired of the diffs only lasting 4 race days. I know when they are shot because the whole drive line starts to stiffen up. Its really staring to piss me off.

The middle diff is the worst. I serviced all of them tonight and I was not surprised that the middle diff had virtually no oil left. It was almost dry.

From day one I have rebuilt them by using the mobile 1 synthetic grease with new gaskets and new o rings. I know some have said to use the tony's o rings but I have a hard time believing that one o ring will solve the problem. Those of you that are using the tony's o rings is there still ample fluid after many race days.


The 2nd problem.

I am having a hard time rebuilding the shocks. I build them will full rebound however once they are all built and put back together I check how much rebound I have and the shock will only come back down a half inch.

I am clueless on the shocks.
Def yes on the tony's o-rings. Another thing you need to do is sand the face of the cup with 320 and then 600 grit paper on a FLAT surface. If you hold two cups facing each other together up to the light before and after you sand them, you'll see what I'm talking about. It doesn't take much sanding at all but it makes a huge difference.

Yes, there is still fluid in the diffs after multiple outings. I don't even replace the gaskets or o-rings now when I rebuild my diffs. I have done this for a long time now with a lot of driving with great success. I have yet to have a leaky diff since.

Shocks are all personal preference.

Last edited by 3DRCRACER; 07-23-2010 at 05:45 AM.
3DRCRACER is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 05:38 AM
  #8305  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,056
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dishsoap
. Those of you that are using the tony's o rings is there still ample fluid after many race days. .
to answer your question and your question only - yes, there is barely any leak with tony's S5 rings.

Now, more detailed answer as there's more to it than Tony's (wonderful) S5 rings.
1- diff oils WILL wear out, and rather quickly. If you want true performance, it would probably need to be changed every hour of running or so... It delaminates, it gets contaminated, in other words, it's highly sollicitated and should be treated as such. The lower viscosity, the sooner it wears out.
2- to lower your chance of diff leakage, filling them in only above the cross-pin helps. Otherwise there isn't enough space for it to emulsion and expand inside the diff case under use (heat) and then it looks its way out of there. Grease the o-rings big time, grease the big inner washers too. Don't tighten the case too hard otherwise you bend it. Sand the case as indicated above. All this helps.

Originally Posted by dishsoap
The 2nd problem.

I am having a hard time rebuilding the shocks. I build them will full rebound however once they are all built and put back together I check how much rebound I have and the shock will only come back down a half inch.

I am clueless on the shocks.
full rebound is a myth as there is some friction on the shaft and you need the pressure inside there (above the bladder) to overcome the friction. so 50%-70% rebound is already pretty good if you ask me, or it means there's too much internal pressure (not proper bleeding happened...) in there!

To overcome the "normal" friction:
- clean shafts
- clean bodies (brake cleaner when fully apart)
- new P3.5rings (silicon o-rings swell in silicon oil... need to be changed regularly)
- green slime
- don't overtigten the piston-holding locknut

Hope this helps,
Paul

Last edited by Lonestar; 07-23-2010 at 07:31 AM.
Lonestar is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 05:56 AM
  #8306  
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,699
Trader Rating: 120 (100%+)
Default

Where do you buy these P3.5 rings? Thanks.
JoeC is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 06:40 AM
  #8307  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
MadRussian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 2,378
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dishsoap
Dreaux I still think the m2c ones are better just for the simple fact that the pins are captured not having to worry about getting the nuts back on. I wonder why mugen would not build a system that has captured pins.

Is anyone running the aluminum rear hubs. If so whats your thoughts? I am digging on those Fioroni rear hubs in blue.
I run teh Mugen ones, one of our Team drivers has a fully decked Fioroni buggy with them and man o man they look like a work of art
MadRussian is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 07:33 AM
  #8308  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,056
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JoeC
Where do you buy these P3.5 rings? Thanks.
You can either buy the mugen shock rebuild kit ( I think it is called "sealing kit" in the parts list... hard to locate!) which will also provide you with the teflon shims, or search for "P3.5" on the usual webshops... other manufacturers use this dimension too and tend to be more affordable

Paul
Lonestar is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 08:55 AM
  #8309  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
TonysScrews's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TonysScrews
New Mugen E0185 Aluminum Rear Arm Mount looks VERY nice!

These are gonna go very fast!

Here are more pics from Mugen Japan site....

P/N Description
E0185 Al. Rear Lower Arm Mount MBX6/6T
E0186 Rear Lower Arm Mount Bush MBX6/6T



TonysScrews is offline  
Old 07-23-2010, 08:58 AM
  #8310  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
TonysScrews's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dishsoap
Hey guys I have 2 problems going on.

The first one is the diffs. I love my mugen but I am tired of the diffs only lasting 4 race days. I know when they are shot because the whole drive line starts to stiffen up. Its really staring to piss me off.

The middle diff is the worst. I serviced all of them tonight and I was not surprised that the middle diff had virtually no oil left. It was almost dry.

From day one I have rebuilt them by using the mobile 1 synthetic grease with new gaskets and new o rings. I know some have said to use the tony's o rings but I have a hard time believing that one o ring will solve the problem. Those of you that are using the tony's o rings is there still ample fluid after many race days.


The 2nd problem.

I am having a hard time rebuilding the shocks. I build them will full rebound however once they are all built and put back together I check how much rebound I have and the shock will only come back down a half inch.

I am clueless on the shocks.

How to build diffs that won't leak
TonysScrews is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.