3LikesMugen MBX6
05-09-2012, 01:46 PM
Tech Adept
thx chad 
i try this weekend...
btw, how i get 0 active caster?
mid/mid on the upper arm and that's it ?
i try this weekend...
btw, how i get 0 active caster?
mid/mid on the upper arm and that's it ?
05-09-2012, 01:54 PM
A few things about setup
One thing is the upper front arm likes to be all the way forward. I thought moving it back a little would help in dusty hardpacked conditions by reducing low speed steering, but it gave so much more on power it spun out when I hit the throttle. i returned it to the forward position like always no matter the traction or whatever.
I also like to use the 1 block on the lower front in the back of the bulkhead. I know it reduces the angle of the arm and has less bumb abilities, but it just works on the mbx-6...i never change that either.
Now on the long chassis I have, not the R, with the battery in the box, the most important adjustment I have made that really helps to fine tune rear traction is the rear hub location on the outside hinge pin. If you put the smallest spacer in front it is locked in, great for high speed turns and less technical tracks, but if the track is really tight it likes the medium spacer forward. that's like 1.5mm difference and really is noticable. so playaround with that setting on the long chassis it really helps. that is the only change I make from track to track or race to race...
I also like to use the 1 block on the lower front in the back of the bulkhead. I know it reduces the angle of the arm and has less bumb abilities, but it just works on the mbx-6...i never change that either.
Now on the long chassis I have, not the R, with the battery in the box, the most important adjustment I have made that really helps to fine tune rear traction is the rear hub location on the outside hinge pin. If you put the smallest spacer in front it is locked in, great for high speed turns and less technical tracks, but if the track is really tight it likes the medium spacer forward. that's like 1.5mm difference and really is noticable. so playaround with that setting on the long chassis it really helps. that is the only change I make from track to track or race to race...
05-09-2012, 01:59 PM
Yes always use the fittings included with the servos.
05-09-2012, 05:04 PM
I was thinking of trying something to speed up the running in of the 6R diffs.
build the diffs very light with 221 so they can work alot, go out and run the car for an hour or so them put the regular diff weights in then.
build the diffs very light with 221 so they can work alot, go out and run the car for an hour or so them put the regular diff weights in then.
05-09-2012, 05:58 PM
Tech Adept
Im also evolving with the car and what ive started noticing about my own driving style for the first time is that i love a car that has LOTS of off power steering and is planted on power, as ive also noticed that im not that hard on the brakes that often...i tend to go hard off throttle into a corner, take all the steering and mid corner speed i can and get on the gas as soon as possible rather than braking hard into a corner and punching out. Chad's setups work great for me and this way of driving IMO, especially when i put in 4k in the rear for the first time..i just love how i could get the rear in by using the throttle. my next step will actually be to go up to 7/10/5 and im pretty sure that is where it will stop for me...between that and 7-7-4 ill be set. 7-7-3 was just to weird for me in the rear and the car tended to diff out quite easily too when i got on the gas and fish tailed alot. i basically have the US spec since i upgraded all my drivetrain parts to those AL ones. I also run 46T centre and i feel if you do all of the above which is almost stock US spec, 3k in the rear is almost certainly too thin. i cant comment on the normal MBX6 or the shorter chassis, since the 6R is my first mugen but I feel the 6R especially might have a narrowER sweetspot if you want it serious planted and i feel im in mine or 95% there. Also, im just stating this here since i got asked this in a PM, i think Chad actually mentioned it here somewhere a while ago, my 6R got WAY more rear grip as it wore in, so much so that my car felt understeery, so dont judge it if you only have a few tanks through it.
Do you have a current setup you'd be willing to share? What track conditions are you running on?
05-09-2012, 06:37 PM
I have seen a lot of guys liking the 7-7-4/5 diff fluids, what about 7-10-4? thoughts on the heavier center diff?
Also guys running the long chassis or R, what does the truggy rear tower do for it?
Also guys running the long chassis or R, what does the truggy rear tower do for it?
05-09-2012, 06:43 PM
the long chassis and R is the same chassis. the truggy tower gives more stability on rough and more traction out of turns, not as much side bite however. i run truggy tower always... you could get the M2C rear tower that has both buggy and truggy tower, more camber link holes and truggy hieght tower with buggy angle. it has it all. http://m2cracing.com/product.sc?prod...&categoryId=-1
hope this helps.
Last edited by jmaxey51; 05-09-2012 at 07:06 PM.
05-09-2012, 06:59 PM
Rear tower is really inconsistent when the track gets rough, a lot of guys switch back to the regular tower. i run 7-10-3 now and its way better than the lighter diff set set ups
05-09-2012, 07:39 PM
my used buggy came with the truggy tower on it and what you describe is what i felt sunday. The track got really blown out and rough and the buggy was all over the place
05-09-2012, 08:34 PM
05-10-2012, 12:40 AM
Edit: im also running a VP pro high downforce wing currently since that is all i could get hold of at my LHS...so im not sure how much of a difference that makes...but my car is really stable at the rear with this combination.
05-10-2012, 08:00 AM
hello,
Getting back into fuel off-road and ran my MBX6R for the first time this weekend. Once I re-train my heavy on-road trigger finger and learn to jump without nose diving, I'll spend less time on my lid.
In any event, I appreciate the set-up input on this forum, especially Brad's. Thank you. I did notice a few things that are of interest... Werks clutch and TLR o-rings. Both seem like key items I would conisder changing...
Brad, are you using a Werks clutch? If yes, which one would you suggest? I'm using the OS 21 Speed Motor. TLR o-rings? I'm assuming the orange are working well. The Mugen o-rings appear a little sticky?
Not being able to travel to big races to see what the top drivers are using does limit us local guys... so any tips posted to the internet are appreciated. FYI... the 2mm spaceing on the steering rack is great. thanks again
Getting back into fuel off-road and ran my MBX6R for the first time this weekend. Once I re-train my heavy on-road trigger finger and learn to jump without nose diving, I'll spend less time on my lid.
In any event, I appreciate the set-up input on this forum, especially Brad's. Thank you. I did notice a few things that are of interest... Werks clutch and TLR o-rings. Both seem like key items I would conisder changing...
Brad, are you using a Werks clutch? If yes, which one would you suggest? I'm using the OS 21 Speed Motor. TLR o-rings? I'm assuming the orange are working well. The Mugen o-rings appear a little sticky?
Not being able to travel to big races to see what the top drivers are using does limit us local guys... so any tips posted to the internet are appreciated. FYI... the 2mm spaceing on the steering rack is great. thanks again
05-10-2012, 10:39 AM
Man the +2mm hubs in the rear really makes the car look wide, does this produce more rear traction?
Cant wait for Sat JBRL at the track I hate because of the inconsistent traction and terrible layouts.
Cant wait for Sat JBRL at the track I hate because of the inconsistent traction and terrible layouts.
05-10-2012, 10:40 AM
Tech Initiate
Help
hi,
i got everything to start my nitro rc mbx6 (just to let you know i am a newbie)
the car wont start. I put the car on the starter box and plug the glow plug in and push down and the flywheel on the car wont turn and keeps jamming any ideas.
i got everything to start my nitro rc mbx6 (just to let you know i am a newbie)
the car wont start. I put the car on the starter box and plug the glow plug in and push down and the flywheel on the car wont turn and keeps jamming any ideas.
05-10-2012, 10:50 AM
A little more info and I am sure we can help ...