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Mugen MBX6

Old 05-09-2012, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
KThatcher: From the look of the changes you made on set 4/28/12 vs 5/7/12

Were the Upper Arm Position was before you had the spacer Pointing UP Now its in the middle. Did i miss something 4/28/12 vs 5/7/12 set up wise. And if this was the only change how did the car response to this one change?

Thanx M
To me it calmed the car down and made it less twitchy and didnt take away any corner speed so it was a win win..
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by WillF
HI , what shock lengths do you run with this set up ?

Will
108 front/ 128 rear
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:23 AM
  #16473  
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Guys, if I need to buy turnbuckle wrenches for the Mugens, what sizes will I need? 4.5mm, 5mm or 5.5mm?
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:14 PM
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I am building the MBX6r and installing the servos. Should I use the rubber fittings that snap into the screw holes when screwing in the servos? It looks like this allows them to move a bit since there would be rubber between screws and plastic screw holes.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rboesen1
I am building the MBX6r and installing the servos. Should I use the rubber fittings that snap into the screw holes when screwing in the servos? It looks like this allows them to move a bit since there would be rubber between screws and plastic screw holes.
I always use them
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:59 PM
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[QUOTE=adir;10702476]
Originally Posted by chad bradley
Take note if change the front kick by the lower arm your going to change the active

Hey chad
For active caster I must have 0 kick up ?
Also, are you use active caster ?
How is it affect on the sweepers it's make the car twitchy when going from off power to on power ?

Thx for the help
?
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:38 PM
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For active caster I must have 0 kick up ?
-no you can have kick up in the lower arm (the more kick you have on the lower arm or less angle on the upper arm you will gain more active caster.

Also, are you use active caster ?
-Yes, It was good at Neo buggy and at my local track hot rods, where turn in steering is important. I did run it also at Silver State but It may had been better if I ran the upper front arm pills the same (mid on tower; mid on mount or low/low; high/high) Car still has some active caster in those spots.

How is it affect on the sweepers it's make the car twitchy when going from off power to on power ?
Probley not as good as if it had zero active caster, i'd imagine it would steer then under steer, steer then under steer. Just like if the car had less ackerman around a sweeper
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:46 PM
  #16478  
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thx chad

i try this weekend...
btw, how i get 0 active caster?
mid/mid on the upper arm and that's it ?
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:54 PM
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Default A few things about setup

One thing is the upper front arm likes to be all the way forward. I thought moving it back a little would help in dusty hardpacked conditions by reducing low speed steering, but it gave so much more on power it spun out when I hit the throttle. i returned it to the forward position like always no matter the traction or whatever.

I also like to use the 1 block on the lower front in the back of the bulkhead. I know it reduces the angle of the arm and has less bumb abilities, but it just works on the mbx-6...i never change that either.

Now on the long chassis I have, not the R, with the battery in the box, the most important adjustment I have made that really helps to fine tune rear traction is the rear hub location on the outside hinge pin. If you put the smallest spacer in front it is locked in, great for high speed turns and less technical tracks, but if the track is really tight it likes the medium spacer forward. that's like 1.5mm difference and really is noticable. so playaround with that setting on the long chassis it really helps. that is the only change I make from track to track or race to race...
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Rboesen1
I am building the MBX6r and installing the servos. Should I use the rubber fittings that snap into the screw holes when screwing in the servos? It looks like this allows them to move a bit since there would be rubber between screws and plastic screw holes.
Yes always use the fittings included with the servos.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:04 PM
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I was thinking of trying something to speed up the running in of the 6R diffs.

build the diffs very light with 221 so they can work alot, go out and run the car for an hour or so them put the regular diff weights in then.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob
Im also evolving with the car and what ive started noticing about my own driving style for the first time is that i love a car that has LOTS of off power steering and is planted on power, as ive also noticed that im not that hard on the brakes that often...i tend to go hard off throttle into a corner, take all the steering and mid corner speed i can and get on the gas as soon as possible rather than braking hard into a corner and punching out. Chad's setups work great for me and this way of driving IMO, especially when i put in 4k in the rear for the first time..i just love how i could get the rear in by using the throttle. my next step will actually be to go up to 7/10/5 and im pretty sure that is where it will stop for me...between that and 7-7-4 ill be set. 7-7-3 was just to weird for me in the rear and the car tended to diff out quite easily too when i got on the gas and fish tailed alot. i basically have the US spec since i upgraded all my drivetrain parts to those AL ones. I also run 46T centre and i feel if you do all of the above which is almost stock US spec, 3k in the rear is almost certainly too thin. i cant comment on the normal MBX6 or the shorter chassis, since the 6R is my first mugen but I feel the 6R especially might have a narrowER sweetspot if you want it serious planted and i feel im in mine or 95% there. Also, im just stating this here since i got asked this in a PM, i think Chad actually mentioned it here somewhere a while ago, my 6R got WAY more rear grip as it wore in, so much so that my car felt understeery, so dont judge it if you only have a few tanks through it.
Bob, you described my driving style to a tee.

Do you have a current setup you'd be willing to share? What track conditions are you running on?
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:37 PM
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I have seen a lot of guys liking the 7-7-4/5 diff fluids, what about 7-10-4? thoughts on the heavier center diff?

Also guys running the long chassis or R, what does the truggy rear tower do for it?
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by megasaxon
I have seen a lot of guys liking the 7-7-4/5 diff fluids, what about 7-10-4? thoughts on the heavier center diff?

Also guys running the long chassis or R, what does the truggy rear tower do for it?
i run 7-10-7 mostly, 7-10-5 is nice too.

the long chassis and R is the same chassis. the truggy tower gives more stability on rough and more traction out of turns, not as much side bite however. i run truggy tower always... you could get the M2C rear tower that has both buggy and truggy tower, more camber link holes and truggy hieght tower with buggy angle. it has it all. http://m2cracing.com/product.sc?prod...&categoryId=-1

hope this helps.

Last edited by jmaxey51; 05-09-2012 at 07:06 PM.
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:59 PM
  #16485  
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Originally Posted by megasaxon
I have seen a lot of guys liking the 7-7-4/5 diff fluids, what about 7-10-4? thoughts on the heavier center diff?

Also guys running the long chassis or R, what does the truggy rear tower do for it?
Rear tower is really inconsistent when the track gets rough, a lot of guys switch back to the regular tower. i run 7-10-3 now and its way better than the lighter diff set set ups
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