tex1

iTrader: (4)

Domit - Thanks for the word.

ezveedub - When you mount your batteries in the Losi, cut a peice of lexan the same square size as the batt box. Sticky tape your battery to the Lexan and install.
This spreads the load evenly on the bottom of the pack and does not let that screw area comprimise your cells. It also keeps your pack from shifting around in the box which can eventually mess with and strain your wiring.

I used those spacers on my rear center shafts as well. I took one look and knew that would be the way to go.

When the car was tight it would wander all over the place on the straights so I found myself constantly correcting it. With it stock if I hit a good line comming on the straight I can actually scratch my nose and take a break until the end. Much easier to deal with during long mains.

Good thread guys.
TEX
<------ Not done yet!

Nik

iTrader: (1)

the lexan square for the battery box sounds like a good idea. what I did, was just rip the foam out and put in in backwards, so the screw is covered with foam. But your method sounds nicer.

cornerspeed

I have done this same mod for my cars since a couple months ago for the same reasons. Although the dogbone only ever popped out once by casing a jump really hard. This has been for over a years worth of racing.

tdeal823

iTrader: (30)

With the flex of the chassis are you guys moving the rear shaft in to far? I wold think if the car flexes like it does that you may bottom out inside the drive cup?
Just a question. Mine is in the stock location.
wondering what your thoughts are?
cya

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

No, it would have to flex quite a bit more to cause any binding. Either way, do you want a DNF or the possibility to still finish?

losiboy

on that center drive line mod did you do it to the front.what kyosho shims did you use.Iwas checking the outdrives cups on the f/r diff they had a lot of slop got new outdrives cups and the new cups came with shims installed with out shims same slop installed shims and had a lot less slop the shims are
.2mm could use a .3mm or .4mm thinking about trying the mugrn diff shims
.5 mm is to much

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

I used the Kyosho 5x7mm shim kit. The kit comes .1, .2, & .3mm thickness. I used a .2mm and then a thick washer I had in my parts bin. I can confirm that your dogbone will jump out. It happened to a friend of mines Losi at the state race tonight. It jumped out after taking a 30ft triple. We installed the shim and washer to his afterwards. On his, we cut the rest of pinion shaft end to match the original flat cut. His shim and washer setup would bind up the pinion & bearing, since the set screw was catching the egde of the flat cut on the pinion shaft and would push the axleshaft into the pinion bearing. These kit is used for shimming Kyosho clutchbell endplay, so use it to for your Losi clutches also.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Those Kyosho shims are ur best freind when it come to shimming.....those and OFna 5x8's are A MUST in every racer's tool box....i CANT COUNT how many guys buy the bulk ofna shim kits to only get like 2 or 3 5X7 shims and the rest is practically useless.....THank you kyosho and ofna for making these shims. they make shimming a clutch a Dream.

Hellsavage

Can soeone post the CC on the tank cappacity without the piece of plastic mounted in it.
Specialy fore the 8B but 8T whould be nice too.
I have a race next weekend the 20th and I want to know if I can remove it without beeing illegal.

thanks Hellsavage

losiboy

on the mod to the rear drive line the washer is a std washer or what does it normanely fit

Integra

iTrader: (8)

like ezveedub said...there 5X7 clutch bell shims...but only Kyosho makes the pack with .1mm .2mm and .3mm.

losiboy

I saw the .3mm shim in the pic it looks like there is a thicker washer in the pic
besides the .3mm

Integra

iTrader: (8)

i see what ur seeing now losiboy...it appears to be a regular old washer from a hardware store or something....probable just the right I.D.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

No the shims are for spacing the washer off the bearing. It contacts the inner race of bearing only, so you don't ride the washer across the inner and outer races. This will add friction and heat the bearing up, making it fail prematurely, just like the clutch bearings will do with full size 5x10 shims. I had a thick washer in my pit box, but basically any washer with a 5mm inner diameter and say about 2-3mm thick will do. This mod is more important when running the plastic rear brace, which a lot like to do. I actually sent a email to Losi about this center rear axle being too short. My Kyosho and Mugen are plunged way into the drivecups compared to the 8ight.

You could stack up some .3mm shims up instead if you couldn't find a washer IMO.