Losi 8ight building and setup
05-14-2008, 10:40 PM
#6767
Someone had mentioned before that adding the 50t spur you the losi did not need any gear mesh adjustment and that the spur did not stick out the bottom of the chassis. However, i got 2 of them in today and the tip of the teeth (about 1mm) stick out the bottom of the chassis and i did have to move the gear mesh. I will be making a spacer to go under the center diff mounts so the center spurr is not sticking out the bottom of the chassis.
I wonder why they'd tell you that? The 48T spur comes awfully close to showing through the bottom. So...IDK.
05-15-2008, 07:16 AM
#6768
Qoncepts Split Diff
Anyone know where to buy a Qoncepts Split Center Diff Mount for Losi 8ight And what they cost ? Or who else makes a similar item?
Jim
Jim
05-15-2008, 07:29 AM
#6769
Yeah I searched, they do not have a screw specific to the stock engine, I did see idle stop screws, but they don't specify thread pattern and size so I don't know if it will work. I ordered a new carb, sucks to have to buy a new carb if there is a screw from another manufacturer that will work. If anyone has a 427 lying around as a paper weight I'll buy the screw off you and pay for shipping. Heck if anyone has a 427 lying around I buy the whole damn engine off you if your price is right. I'd like to tinker with moding the crank a tad. I then send the new carb back....
05-15-2008, 07:34 AM
#6770
I've used them the past two years and they're great. A little pricey but it makes getting the center diff out and back in a bajillion times easier
05-15-2008, 08:45 AM
#6772
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05-15-2008, 08:59 AM
#6773
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For example, I can change to any of the available gearing on my 1/8th on-road car and never have to move the engine to adjust mesh. All the 1st gear pinions are the same diameter (15T through 17T), and all the spur gears are the same diameter (47T through 50T). The pitch just changes slightly to make it work.
Same deal with 2nd gear pinions and spurs. In the end, I can choose any pinions and any spurs and never need to move the engine.
I didn't believe this until I saw it. I'm sure there is a tradeoff in the form of geartrain efficiency and maybe even gear life, but those might be acceptable tradeoffs in 1/8th off-road as they appearantly are in 1/8th on-road???
05-15-2008, 12:34 PM
#6774
Hmmm..maybe the guy that was saying that, figured the gear mesh would be loose and the "tweaked" 50t could fit. But like you said, he was wrong. And I couldn't see Losi doing something like that. Unless one of the drivers requested it. IDK. weird
So we know now the 50t sticks through the spur gear hole.
So we know now the 50t sticks through the spur gear hole.
05-16-2008, 12:12 AM
#6775
I already solved the ackerman slop problem.
1)Drill the ackerman holes to 1/4" and then press in sleeve bearings:
From McMaster-Carr: SAE 841 Bronze sleeve bearings p/n 6391K113
2)Then drill those out to 5/32"
3)Next insert new shoulder screws: McMaster-Carr: p/n 93985A524
Put a drop of after run oil on and you're done.
1)Drill the ackerman holes to 1/4" and then press in sleeve bearings:
From McMaster-Carr: SAE 841 Bronze sleeve bearings p/n 6391K113
2)Then drill those out to 5/32"
3)Next insert new shoulder screws: McMaster-Carr: p/n 93985A524
Put a drop of after run oil on and you're done.
05-16-2008, 06:12 AM
#6776
05-16-2008, 06:55 AM
#6777
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN0928
05-16-2008, 07:19 AM
#6778
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas, USA, North America, Earth, Solar System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe
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I personally like the Revolutions bearings, which have a metal shield on one side, rubber on the other. (less drag than rubber on both sides, but still allows you to face the rubber to the "dirty" side to protect the bearings.) Just my $.02
