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I would start with 15T and go from there.
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Originally Posted by 0verkill
(Post 15011702)
I would start with 15T and go from there.
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Originally Posted by Thomasnor
(Post 15011712)
Really? I thought that would make it undergeared?
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html |
Originally Posted by Thomasnor
(Post 15011712)
Really? I thought that would make it undergeared?
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I'm running the Tekin 1350kV combo with a 17T on 6S with the 6.89in Trenchers. It's right on the edge of overpowered beyond reason :lol:
At 2/3 throttle ~50mph it will flip over instantly if you peg the throttle. It's also pretty close to overheating by the end of the pack, of course it's near 100deg F where I am too. Get the 15T and the 17T so you have them both on hand, they're cheap anyway. If your temps are good on the 15T and you need more power, you'll be ready to go. |
Originally Posted by Mopar2Ya
(Post 15011731)
I cant speak for the 1550kv, but IMO the 1350kv & 15T feels good w/the large MX38 6.91". I do like going up To ~18T w/the original Badlands 3.8 5.85". I have sense switch to a 16T w/the MX38, because the T8 w/15T just gets a decent mesh as it's pressed against the center chassis brace.
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Originally Posted by bootbox
(Post 15011732)
I'm running the Tekin 1350kV combo with a 17T on 6S with the 6.89in Trenchers. It's right on the edge of overpowered beyond reason :lol:
At 2/3 throttle ~50mph it will flip over instantly if you peg the throttle. It's also pretty close to overheating by the end of the pack, of course it's near 100deg F where I am too. Get the 15T and the 17T so you have them both on hand, they're cheap anyway. If your temps are good on the 15T and you need more power, you'll be ready to go. |
Originally Posted by Thomasnor
(Post 15011791)
I plan on running the 3.8 Badlands, but switching to the big joe 2's from time to time. They measure 6.6" tall if Im not mistaken. Perhaps i should try 16t Pinion?
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Originally Posted by Mopar2Ya
(Post 15011816)
Like boot stated, I'd get 15-17T. Then you are covered. I just don't like how the T8 rubs against the center brace w/15T installed.
Thanks for the tips guys! Really looking forward to build this kit:) |
Originally Posted by Mopar2Ya
(Post 15011816)
Like boot stated, I'd get 15-17T. Then you are covered. I just don't like how the T8 rubs against the center brace w/15T installed.
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Originally Posted by Thomasnor
(Post 15011843)
Yeah, you guys are probably right but i actually found a castle mod 1 16t Pinion laying around so Im gonna try that for starters.
Thanks for the tips guys! Really looking forward to build this kit:) |
Originally Posted by bootbox
(Post 15012564)
You're going to love it! Be sure to use threadlock everywhere a screw goes into metal threads. I missed a couple of places and within the first week they backed out and got lost in my yard.
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I need a little help.... Under full throttle I'm hearing an intermittent loud gear skipping noise. I checked both ring and pinions and they both look perfect. Mesh is good. both diff couplers are on tight. Pinion is tight. What am i missing? Could it be a snapped pin that holds the spider gears? The truck drives perfect (no noise) except when I stab the throttle going real slow or at a standstill. If it helps i'm running a HW max8 and HW 2200kv motor with 15t pinion and proline mx38's.
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I've never seen a broken cross pin. Have you opened the center diff?
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I have not. I guess my next step is to check all of the diff internals. This is my second mt410 build. I only have a pack thru this truck. I pulled the front and rear again and now the front ring and pinion look to have some metal shavings present. There is no sided to side play, and the mesh seems to be good. I'm a bit lost. The answer seems to be shim the diff, but it doesn't need it.
update: I shimmed the front and rear diffs. 2 shims for the rear on the gear side and 1 shim for the front on the gear side. There is a very very minimal amount of play now. It still making the noise when I do a quick stab of the throttle. I have to be missing something... |
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