Ok thanks. I'll have to flip that so the head of the bolt sits inside that hex cutout in the bottom of the steering arm. But I'm still wondering what kind of angle the arms should be at. For example if I lift the truck off the table you would Want a lot of droop in this thing right so you get a lot of suspension travel? You don't want the arms parallel with the ground right? I guess once I flip That bolt I can try putting the droop screw flush with the bottom of the arm like the manual picture shows. Hopefully that will still allow the truck to turn properly without rubbing.

Not unless you do a lot of back end landings from 40ft in the air. This truck is a tank, those upgrades are mostly for bling imo.

Not as far as I'm concerned...

Guess I will pass on the new brace this time around...worth the $20, but the stock piece is Tonka tough also

These trucks are ridiculously tough. If I had done to an Arrma what I've done to this truck, I would have bent the chassis in half, broken every shock rod end, bent the steering plate, taken out half of the wheel bearings, broken several suspension arms, and frozen the steering servo. This list, although hypothetical, is representative of what I've seen of my friend's experiences with a Senton.

The Tekno has suffered a body that has been beat to death, I had a plastic shock cartridge cap break, and I've pulled the shock mounts through the plastic body mounts several times. Color me VERY impressed!

My track 1/8th scale vehicles are Mugens which are very tough, I do believe the Tekno is even more so (particularly the suspension arms).

Jay

What about nose landings? Maybe not from 40ft, but how about 10?

Not exactly a nose landing, but I've run mine into the shed in my backyard twice, dead square hits at probably 30mph and the only damage is to the body.

I've also run it into a couple of trees at a good rate of speed, no damage.

The main weak point on mine so far has been from jumps I land poorly. I've got a 3ft tall ramp setup and bad landings have so far resulted in:

The rear shock mounts pulling through the body mounts (seems to be common lol)

The right rear shock shaft pulling out of the rod end (rod end is stripped, have a new one going on tonight)

The bolt and bearing coming loose and falling out in the grass on the right side of the bellcrank. I've added more loctite and really torqued it down since then, seems to be good now.

Some people have broken the stock plastic brace and some people like the rock solid support it offers especially when combined with the shock tower brace. It's overkill for a lot of people but serves a purpose for the extreme crowd.

Edit: brain malfunction, post retracted

Jay

Well maybe not a brain malfunction, I was only wrong because I doubted myself LOL! Anyway last post before I deleted it, I mentioned to be sure to have your droop screws adjusted so that they are limiting the suspension travel and not your shocks. If the shocks are doing the travel limiting, that will certainly contribute to stripped/pulled out shock ends.

Jay

Ooooh, that's what those are for! I just chalked it up to 'racing only' stuff but that makes a ton of sense :lol:

Thank you!

I got some things to learn about this truck too...

Fierce RC Solutions is having a sale on the MT410. Using the coupon code it can be yours for $357 shipped! That's the lowest price I've seen.

TKR5603 ? MT410 1/10th Electric 4×4 Pro Monster Truck Kit

Damn. Knew I should have waited... A week too late for me.

I added stainless steel locknuts/bolts/washers for strength/looks :cool: