Originally Posted by mkl (Post 14770720)

I use a black grease on the ring/pinion gears- good coverage but sparingly as well as the diff outdrives where they mate with the diff cups.
I am experimenting with graphite lube or a dry bicycle chain lube on the axle universals.
Shock o-rings I use Slick Honey (Slickolium) but will be trying some green slime grease next time I overhaul shocks.
I don't think there are any greases that will harm the plastics as long as you stay with regular bearing grease and not some oddball grease specific for some other application.
Black grease that comes with the kit for the ring gears is good stuff.

Originally Posted by nodrog (Post 14763724)

In case you're having trouble finding them they will look like normal button head screws with a hex on the opposite end 'inside' the threaded portion

Originally Posted by celt (Post 14763224)

Functioning chassis, need to squirt the shell.

Items installed not included in the kit:

Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Plus Brushless ESC/G2 Motor Combo (1900kV)
Pro-Line Badlands 3.8" Tire 1/2" Offset Wheel (2) (Black) (M2)
Pro-Line RAM 1500 Monster Truck Body
ProTek RC 170T Chad Bradley Team Edition High Torque Servo
Tekno RC 4x10mm Button Head Droop Adjustment Hex Screw
Tekno RC Aluminum Single Sided Clamping Servo Horn
Tekno RC Aluminum Vented Shock Cap Set
Tekno RC Aluminum Shock Adjustment Nut Set
Tekno RC 95mm Rear Shock Spring Set (Yellow) (1.6 x 9.5T)
Tekno RC 80mm Front Shock Spring Set (Yellow) (1.6 x 8.0T)
Tekno RC Aluminum Shock Cartridge Cap Set
Tekno RC CNC Conical Shock Pistons (8x1.3mm)

Originally Posted by gwhall (Post 14770729)

Cool. Do you have a link to the black grease you use?

Originally Posted by jason07 (Post 14771031)

sorry, I guess I should have quoted the post I was questioning. see below



He said that the added the droop screws so I was just curious as to why.

Originally Posted by celt (Post 14771457)

The kit comes with droop screws that face the threaded end towards the chassis.

The TKR1238 droop screws are installed with the button end of the screw towards the chassis - they have a socket adjustment on both ends of the screw. Personal preference is all. One could install the stock screws in upside down and still make adjustments - you could do that as well. It's easier for me when tuning the chassis to use the TKR1238's, I have them on all my Tekno kits.

I like the idea of not having the sharp end of the screw gouge the chassis. Most droop screws work like the later. $7.99 for enough screws to fit two chassis is a small price to pay in my opinion, when spending $800.00 to $1,000.00 or maybe more for a vehicle.

Again, just my preference.

Originally Posted by RepEvox (Post 14771890)

Maybe I missed the post, but my kit didn't come with the special threaded droop screws.
If you're referring to TKR1238, the kit doesn't include those.
The build manual also shows normal screws that thread in from the top of the arms. I'll probably pick a set of those screws up when it's convenient.
Yes, the kit includes the standard M4x10 button head screws, TKR1443. You should have those in your kit and you can install them upside down to prevent marring the droop pads.
Speaking of my kit, are you supposed to cut down the servo saver spring?
Nope, just run the spring as is.
Also, At max ride height, the screw for the steering links on the knuckles hit the a-arms. I don't think I plan on setting the ride height to max, but this still means you can't turn when it's jumping.
Look at the instructions again, I think you installed the screw upside down. It is counter intuitive because of the hex hole on the spindle. We run all of cars this way now.
Furthermore, I think I need to cut down the front screws that go into the front chassis brace into the plastic bulkheads. I checked the manual, and they're supposed to be the same length as the rear, but the rear has a plastic bumper acting as a spacer. The fronts dont have that bumper acting as a spacer.
If you're referring to the M3x40mm screws then you don't need to cut them down. We spec'd those screws before we ever came out with the SC truck so they're the correct length. We actually tested extensively to make sure they were long enough when running the bumper and found they hold up just fine.
I mentioned too that my motor mount was a bit out of tolerance, but I sanded it. I didn't expect absolutely no issues. It does seem a bit odd though because 90% of the kit is near perfect fit and finish, but then there's little quirks that I, or others have had.

Originally Posted by celt (Post 14771457)

The kit comes with droop screws that face the threaded end towards the chassis.

The TKR1238 droop screws are installed with the button end of the screw towards the chassis - they have a socket adjustment on both ends of the screw. Personal preference is all. One could install the stock screws in upside down and still make adjustments - you could do that as well. It's easier for me when tuning the chassis to use the TKR1238's, I have them on all my Tekno kits.

I like the idea of not having the sharp end of the screw gouge the chassis. Most droop screws work like the later. $7.99 for enough screws to fit two chassis is a small price to pay in my opinion, when spending $800.00 to $1,000.00 or maybe more for a vehicle.

Again, just my preference.