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Originally Posted by Slapjack
(Post 14996496)
Is there a mistake in the manual for the mt410? Step j-4 where you
Screw the front clip onto the chasis the very front 2 screws are called out as tkr1346 I think (they are 15mm lg). I just put one in and it punched thru the diff case and jammed up the outdrive. Freakin pissed. I use a mini electric driver to go 90% of the way then do the rest by hand but the damn screw punched thru with still a couple mm of length left to screw in. It seems that the hole in the diff case is 9mm deep and the chasis is 4mm thick so I think the screw should only be 12mm not 15. I checked my eb48.3 manual which has the same diff case and that screw in that manual is 12mm. I emailed tekno. I kinda feel like they should send me a new diff case. http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...structions.pdf |
Originally Posted by Mopar2Ya
(Post 14996537)
I don't recall this being an issue. The front 2 are listed as 15mm TKR1346, the rear 2 are 12mm TKR1344. The front 2 also go through the bumper, this is why they're longer as the rear 4 are all 12mm.
http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...structions.pdf |
Originally Posted by Slapjack
(Post 14996557)
Damn it! I keep forgetting I'm not building a buggy here. That's why it broke thru is cause I didn't have the bumper in there.
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
(Post 14996557)
Damn it! I keep forgetting I'm not building a buggy here. That's why it broke thru is cause I didn't have the bumper in there.
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The M2C Racing Rear Chassis Brace for the MT410 is here! Details and pre-ordering info below!
It's made from 7075-T6 billet aircraft aluminum and will be anodized black (pic is a pre-anodized prototype). It will retail for $21.98 plus the ride on M2C RACING where formal pre-orders start tomorrow. Don't forget the 20% off coupon on the home page! Shipping will start in about two weeks. Thanks M2C! And thanks to Kevin for the details. https://image.ibb.co/iZa5ga/image.png |
Originally Posted by 0verkill
(Post 14997287)
The M2C Racing Rear Chassis Brace for the MT410 is here! Details and pre-ordering info below!
It's made from 7075-T6 billet aircraft aluminum and will be anodized black (pic is a pre-anodized prototype). It will retail for $21.98 plus the ride on M2C RACING where formal pre-orders start tomorrow. Don't forget the 20% off coupon on the home page! Shipping will start in about two weeks. Thanks M2C! And thanks to Kevin for the details. |
Originally Posted by vettehigh
(Post 14997301)
Knew they would come out with that upgrade, but is there really any benefit to it? I have several other parts from them and I think they are overkill :lol:
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
(Post 14997303)
They should have just made a front chassis brace. I believe that's the only brace used on most of the pro truggy setups and makes most sense unless you do high speed reverse driving lol
Speaking of that particular problem, rather than the M2C solution, I made some 2mm Carbon fiber pieces (basically large washers) that fit in the recess formed by the plastic body mount holders, and it solved the 4mm nut being pulled through the plastic. Jay |
Originally Posted by petmotel
(Post 14997387)
Big air, high speed muff landings on rear bumper is what was pulling shock mounts through the plastic body mounts when I was trying to learn trick flips. That is a brutal amount of force doing bad things to the rear of the truck.
Speaking of that particular problem, rather than the M2C solution, I made some 2mm Carbon fiber pieces (basically large washers) that fit in the recess formed by the plastic body mount holders, and it solved the 4mm nut being pulled through the plastic. Jay |
Originally Posted by tgrinchy
(Post 14996620)
I did the EXACT freaking thing a few weeks ago. The instruction manual should show the screws going through the bumper with the chassis. I emailed them as well and they basically said it would be fine. Maybe I should have pushed them harder, but I just bought a new diff case for ~$10 or so and moved on.
The other question I have is about the droops screws and attaching the steering turnbuckle to the steering arm (step j-2 page 15). In the manual it shows the screw going up from the bottom but on the eb it goes in from the top. So that is what I did since there is a recess for a nut on the bottom of the steering arm. But the end of the screw sticks out past the nut on the bottom where the recessed cutout is. Which brings me to the droop screws. The manual shows the droop screw being flush with the bottom of the arm. But I have to turn the in so that the arms are basically level with the ground or the end of the screw in the steering arm rubs on the c-hub when I turn. Should I actually install it the way the manual shows and make the head of the screw go inside the recessed area that looks like it is cut out for a nut? Hope that all makes sense the way I wrote it. |
Originally Posted by Slapjack
(Post 14997453)
Ya they definitely should have shown the screw going thru the bumper instead of having the bumper off to the left side of the page. But oh well. They emailed me and said the exact same thing. Basically it will be fine. I actually didn't break thru the case but it did push the plastic up. I tore it apart and was able to push the plastic Back down so it didn't interfere with the outdrive.
The other question I have is about the droops screws and attaching the steering turnbuckle to the steering arm (step j-2 page 15). In the manual it shows the screw going up from the bottom but on the eb it goes in from the top. So that is what I did since there is a recess for a nut on the bottom of the steering arm. But the end of the screw sticks out past the nut on the bottom where the recessed cutout is. Which brings me to the droop screws. The manual shows the droop screw being flush with the bottom of the arm. But I have to turn the in so that the arms are basically level with the ground or the end of the screw in the steering arm rubs on the c-hub when I turn. Should I actually install it the way the manual shows and make the head of the screw go inside the recessed area that looks like it is cut out for a nut? Hope that all makes sense the way I wrote it. On the droop screws - I ended up getting TKR1238 (which are the same as the ET and EB I believe). So the button head ends up at the bottom of the arm against the chassis, with the adjustment accessible on the top side of the arm. HTH! |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by vettehigh
(Post 14997301)
Knew they would come out with that upgrade, but is there really any benefit to it? I have several other parts from them and I think they are overkill :lol:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xtreme-...r11431/p257053 |
Originally Posted by celt
(Post 14997651)
For those that are concerned with the strength of the back-end of their truck, this has existed for quite sometime and does a much better, lighter, job of tying it all together and distributing forces.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xtreme-...r11431/p257053 |
Originally Posted by Tekno rubicon
(Post 14997720)
What does it do where does it go iv looked mine over and don't see where it would go. Pics would be nice installed or better description please..
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Originally Posted by celt
(Post 14997731)
It mounts to both rear brace holes on the rear diff case and then continues over the entire center diff, replacing the existing center diff plastic support.
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