Sat down for a rebuild with a new M2C chassis today. So far, the only thing I needed to replace was the chassis. I'm not too surprised with this because this truck has been through hell. She's bent!

http://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1932/43...e381658e_b.jpg

http://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1980/45...f4a69b60_b.jpg

http://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1907/45...55ce0bd9_b.jpg

This truck is still my favorite rc. Even after getting the ET48.3. I just love the short wheel base. So easy to flip and wheelie. In air control is just so easy, this thing is a blast to drive. I have pretty much upgraded mine to the max. Only thing i wish there was an upgrade for is the driveshafts. They are to skinny, and we need thicker shafts like Arrma has on its 8th scale lineup. Wish this issue would get some attention and a company like M2C can come up with something. Then this truck would be close to bulletproof as an rc can get....

https://i.imgur.com/teuGLxA.jpg

There is, someone on facebook is selling kits based on the Arrma Talion's CVD.

Yeah i know him, he is also a part of this forum. I have talked to him, and he is currently waiting on stock. Thats a kit to make Arrma driveshafts work on Tekno. I want a direct replacement. Like Tekno driveshafts just thicker that are a direct drop in. But for now the Arrma driveshaft kit offered by Seth will have to work.

Can this rc be converted to nitro?

surely as there is the NB48, nitro buggy and they share similar parts. i guess you would need the NB48 chassis

I got 2 sets of the Arrma drive shaft kits from Seth. Super excited to get them and install so i can get a proper bash in and not worry about wobbly driveshafts. I feel running heavier tires bows the driveshafts on Teknos quicker. When i run backflips it seems worse than when i run 3.8 badlands.

Hello community. After over a year of bashing my mt410, it's time for my first major repair/fix. The middle diff finally blew out so I'm wondering about the upgrades available. Is the losi upgrade mentioned very early in this thread still a thing? I already plan on getting an aluminum diff case, I'm wondering about the internals, gears, pins and such. I'm also wondering what weight of lube people use to reduce front wheel spin when they are up in the air. Thanks.

Yes I would go with the M2C aluminum case. As far as internals go I would just get a fresh set of Tekno gears and pins. They shouldn't fail in that case. Heavier center diff fluid will reduce front wheelspin but make it wheelie easier so keep that in mind.

Whatup!
Super excited to share with you my MT410. It's now Rockina T-Bone Racing Exo-Cage, updated rear bumper brace with new wheels and the newly designed not yet released Tower 2 Tower Brace. I'll be testing it and let you guys know how it is. Know that this is T2T v1 and it may change, but I think we have a solid alternative T2T brace.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...79bb5fcbd9.jpg


Here's some video on it.

https://youtu.be/zxERBVsiip4

I might as well give my ¢2 while I'm here... I'm not overly enthused about TBR's roll cage, even though I think a roll cage is probably the mt410's biggest need, kind of. Actually, I think it's the body posts. I break more body posts than do damage to bodies, hands down. I'm to the point of literally strapping a body on with Velcro straps...around the body! Unfortunately, this roll cage does nothing to change the weak points of the body posts. A good shoe goo job or 1 of those new unbreakable bodies is the same as these roll cages, a good start but not quite enough. If it had mounted to the chassis in some way, then I'd definitely be picking 1 up. I'm really thinking of doing something stupid and ordering one of those roll cages from China for $109. Even if it's junk, I'm sure I can steal or use ideas or parts for a custom roll cage.

body posts : i broke all rigid/stiff body post i ever had on the RCs, what ever the brand. i always replaced them with flexible body post from... traxxas

https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...a1914r/p267077

this fits most cars and they is often a simple way to bolt is to shocktowers

Interesting thoughts. The body posts issue is a real issue, but is a completely separate topic in regards to the products depicted in the image and video I posted. The wonderful thing about aftermarket companies is that they provide solutions to issues we have. The more options the better it is to choose from for your driving style. Unfortunately as much as I advocate for the sho-goo and dry wall treatment on all bodies. Most don't want to go thru the process. When in lies a gap for a solution. The Exo-cage is a phenomenal solution. It provides strength to the body by stiffening laterally. It uses dual plates F&R for mounting and are bolted on to the plates rather than the body. Much better for impact force absorption. Also it dosen't take away from the look of the truck as must as the cage from over seas as you mentioned. The cost is a fraction from that of 100.00 plus dollars. Furthermore it's a great piece to have for the notorious roof body slides. I have used them on a few on my trucks and Love it, but I'm most impressed with how awesome it's been on my XMAXX. I have bashed it pretty hard and it keeps on ticking.

The Tower to Tower brace goal is to provide a balance between stiffness and play. I feel this to be a great start. I also have used and am using aluminum T2T braces in my rigs, but instantly saw the benefits of a T2T TBR brace. Some play can be a good thing.

Body posts are on the list and will soon be available. I'm currently testing out the T-Bone Racing Universal body mounts. Currently using them on my Arrma Rock Racer and racing in the winter U4RC series and have had great success.

This is what they look like.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...bd5f287feb.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...50860457c4.jpg

FALSE.

I run huge 6.89" diameter Trenchers 40 series (not X) and chassis CAN SLAP.
the trick is the shock setting. It has to be as pictured to get max up travel. I got this rig specifically because I knew it WOULD properly fit huge ass 6.5"+ tires and still bottom out the chassis, I read years ago that this was verified. And on the ET48.
In these pics I do have wide hexes on just to clear the MT body rub because these wheels are zero offset. It will still bottom out using the stock hubs.
https://image.ibb.co/dVnDa0/20181104-204246.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/gwcDa0/20181104-204155.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/dRwjhf/20181104-204135.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/enqMTL/20181104-204147.jpg