Hi Traveler, for the M96WC, are we allowing shaved splitters / wing canards / removed side mirrors for Box Stock class? I removed them on my 12C because I thought I saw past participants doing the same. If no modifications are allowed, I'll have to find another body for this class. Thanks.

Looks like Kyosho America has the yellow NSX ASC in stock. I'd go with that one over the McLarens for Box Stock. MZP233Y

It's nearly impossible to keep side mirrors and the small canards and other front winglets on, so I don't think removing them is an issue. Shaving down the splitter in Box Stock is another matter (which is why I have run bodies that don't come with one) and I think would violate the rules as written, but I don't plan to call anyone out on it unless it seems egregious and provides a clear unfair advantage. There have only been a handful of racers at any point in time and the racing hasn't been close enough to make body modifications an issue, but if we get to that point we will have to deal with it.

Tires are the biggest contributor to how much steering you are going to wind up with. Some tires I wind up at 110% end point and others I will under 70% to get nearly the same steering feel. If you have the budget I would grab a few different tires and wheels to experiment with.

I have Kyosho LH 30s on the front (trued just until the whole width was flat) and Marka 10s on the rear (also new and just barely trued). I set the D/R all the up until one side binds the servo, then back it off until there is no binding.

Hi all, copying the Porsche Cup rules here:
"Porsche Cup- Stock- 4AAA NiMh Kyosho Chassis set up at 86 or 90MM. OEM or 70T brushed motor or 3500 & Kyosho 4100kv Brushless motor. The car must un a rear-mount and use a 911 derived body (934,935,GT1, 996 GT3, 991 GT3RS)."

Are we then allowed to do mods like: degree knuckles, stiff upper arms, aluminium tie rods, aftermarket aluminium rear-mount pods, ball diff, centre dual shock with disc damper, +1 offset wheels, EVO chassis, modified body shells etc.? Or do we need to keep to box stock Mini-Z RWD chassis?

Wanted to clarify on the above before making any changes to my kit. Thanks.

Upgrades are allowed. As an FYI, my near box stock GT1 is quicker than my brushless EVO GT3, so I’d recommend upgrading gradually and making sure they are improving your times.

I have found the 30s to be very pushy. I only used them on cars that are super prone to traction rolling. PN mediums are great and if you still need more steering the PN softs.

Thanks for the clarification. I’ll have a go at it with the current near-stock setup and slowly change parts to see if timing improves.

Thanks, to be clear I just wanted to understand better - not rules lawyer. It would be less of an issue if my driving improved and I could stay away from the rails That said, good motivation to try another body!

This car worked really well for last months layout all stock. The only upgrade was a generic fiberglass T plate and wheels and tires. I think I have Marka 10 rears and PN softs in front +1 offset front and rear. The edge rim is exposed on front making traction roll less likely but you can use some CA glue to get the same effect.

The car drives very aggressively and it takes a bit of effort to get a clean 75 laps run with it.

The NSX I told you about is better on the rails

Thanks for sharing Poor_Boy. I should try exposing the front rim edges too. I assume it was done during tire truing?

The exposed edge was just something that happened after tons of laps. These tires are very near the end of there usable time. I don't know if I recommend it I was just bring it up because the exposed edge might be the reason soft tires are working with little traction rolling. Box stock cars can be hardest to keep from traction rolling with no mods or extra weight allowed.

Ah I see. Many sites do mention that lower profile tyres (either worn or trued) do help with traction roll. I also tried using RTRC wheels with sidewalls, but there was minimal improvement for my rear-mount (Porsche class) setup.