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Old 11-23-2005, 12:56 AM   #46
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Ah, you guys are going with out me! My computer is just a pos right now. I need either a large bolt of ligthning, a 20lb hammer or a lob off of the Space needle with a 550ft extension cord so that I could enjoy the sparks when it impacts.

Moving along....

My MS2.3 should build up about 7.7in w/b with an Asc rear lower plate. If you use an IRS plate, it should build up about 7.825in. A CRC should be about the same as the Asc. I thought that the Trinity would build up long as would the Cyrul. I tried a short wheel base at about 7.55 and it was a handful for 8 minutes.

Dom's right, you should be able to find Dubro ball studs at your local airplane shop... Galaxy, Hobby Town, etc. Sorry Deb.

I am still trying to get a two versions of a conversion kit available; a basic like I have been offering and a deluxe with upper rear plate and damper tubes. But the people I need to deal with are at Cleveland this week.

Enjoy your turkey week!
Brian
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Old 11-23-2005, 07:09 AM   #47
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I just measure the CEFX and it measured 7.625" or about 193.5mm. The Trinity Reflex12 measured out to exactly the same (hmmm, go figure). Interesting to find that the WB on those cars is so short compared to the others out there.
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:02 AM   #48
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That's ok Brian. I have them coming in today! Unless of course some turkey runs in front of the truck!
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Old 11-23-2005, 11:01 AM   #49
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how do u adjust front ride height on slapmaster chassis?
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Old 11-23-2005, 11:09 AM   #50
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By shimming the steering knuckles up and down on the hingepin.

Dom
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:03 PM   #51
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When adjusting the ride height, where is the preferred location for the shims? The suggested starting point is 2 thin klips under the steering block. To raise the car (for smaller tires) I need to move at least one - maybe two klips. Do you just put them directly on top of the steering block or above the upper arm or......?
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Old 11-24-2005, 01:12 AM   #52
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Derek - When you need to raise the rideheight for a smaller tire you move the shims from directly underneath the knuckle to directly above the knuckle. The clips always stay between the upper and lower arms. We've found about 3.35 - 3.75mm ride height be be optimum. If you have the option of 4mm or 3mm, chose 4. The car will begin to rub at 3mm.

Dakrat - Thats what I was just describing if you hadn't caught on yet. What we use are the 1mm kwik klips Schumacher makes or the Xray 1/8" clips work well also. You just move the clips on the kingpin to adjust ride height. You can actually change ride height without removing the front tires . Sure beats removing those enormous screws on an AE front end .

Jeeze... is it turkey day already , I better get to sleep .
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Old 11-24-2005, 11:23 AM   #53
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Yea, now that I think about it, the instructions do not call out for that ride height adjustment on where to relocate the shims. I will make an update for that. But like it was said before, all shims stay between the arms. Sometimes I will rob a shim from the very top stack and add it under the spring to really fine tune it. I would really like to have 1/2mm or .020 shims for a better range of adjustment. The only way to currently do this, is to cut them out yourselves from a sheet of .020 lexan. Kind of a pain, but well worth it. I have not come across a time/$ method of producing these.

Wednesday Night Worlds at Rain City last night was really the first time that we got some Mod 12ths running. We also had a group in 12 stock running. It was great to see the little speed freaks out again. We were starting to worry. Likewise, it was a good night for the MS2.3. Allen Reed build up a new MS2.3 for stock class. I am not sure that he had even a battery in it before the qual's started. As a result, he dominated the qual's and took the victory at the end of the evening... pretty much right off the instructions. Weylin and I have been testing tires and brushless systems in our rides. I am running the LRP while Weylin is tuning in the Novak. I felt like I was not able to get the same amount of off power drag like a brushed motor even though I have the drag brake pegged. Weylin on the other hand had to remove all the drag to get the car to roll more. I tried the Parma grey rears and purple fronts, which had the best "feel" so far with the new CRC carpet, but the wear was pretty bad with the greys. Weylin is finishing up an old set of Parma Pink rears/ purple fronts. His split was pretty close and the side walls were pretty short, but it did handle the corner speed a little better then my set up. Welyin was able to run about 2 tenths faster occassionally and I could match him if I really nailed the line. I tried several chassis tuning tweaks to better the tire situation, but didn't really come up with anything satisfying. I will try more tires; likely a Parma Pink/magentas. I took the pole by 2 seconds over Weylin, but he was lacking good bat's. I lent him a new SMCIB3800 for the main. We took the first start, only to find that 2 laps in, a wire got kicked loose from the loop. We restarted without a repeak for 8 minutes of b/l mod racing. I built a 1/2 lap lead after Weylin bumped a pipe but got it in the groove for the remainder and chased me down. In the 2nd to last lap, I goofed and went a little wide as Weylin instantly ducked under for the lead. On the white flag lap, Weylin showed a little sign of soft battery. I tried a move on the inside and found more pipe then open road. Weylin took the checkers at the Wed Night Smack Down at R/C. We are really happy with the initial direction the car is headed with the b/l systems, but feel that more work is needed. Already, we are bouncing ideas off of each other which is only going to make for a better product. Congrat's to Allen on his maiden victory in stock!

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Brian
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Old 11-24-2005, 12:35 PM   #54
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Thanks Weylin and Brian.

Good Job Allen!

Suggested starting set-up for stock at the Rain? Still per instruction sheet?

Tubes - Purple stuff / no springs
Shock - 25wt / Blue spring
Batteries all the way back
Roll center - middle?

Brian - I have a question about the staggered camber in the front. Is this just for even tire wear? I had always set both sides the same and rotated tires (left to right) every other run or so. Is there a beneift to the stagger that I am missing.

Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2005, 02:35 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumper1
Thanks Weylin and Brian.

Good Job Allen!

Suggested starting set-up for stock at the Rain? Still per instruction sheet?

Tubes - Purple stuff / no springs
Shock - 25wt / Blue spring
Batteries all the way back
Roll center - middle?

Brian - I have a question about the staggered camber in the front. Is this just for even tire wear? I had always set both sides the same and rotated tires (left to right) every other run or so. Is there a beneift to the stagger that I am missing.

Thanks.
Hey Deric,

I ran the mod setup with the exception of tires. I used Jaco Purple/Grey I tried the Parma but I wasn't aware that you needed a flanged bearing for those and couldn't figure out for the life of me how the bearing was going to stay in there until Frank came over and told me. He had tried it earlier and couldn't keep the tires on.

Tubes - No oil forgot to add will add next time / .18 springs didn't have .20 out of stock
Shock - 25wt / Green spring
Batteries all the way back

Allen
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Old 11-24-2005, 02:46 PM   #56
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I finally got the car together yesterday 30 minutes before quals I got to run it about 5 minutes just to make sure nothing was binding, set dual rate and all that good stuff. Plus I wanted to make sure I put it together correctly.

I have to say the car is amazing it is so easy to drive and it goes wherever you want it. I almost feel like I am driving a slot car. With all the troubles I have been having with my TC my confidence has been a little shaken I couldn't wait until summer to break out the nitro and get my confidence back. After driving MS2.3 I feel like I have a car that is a performer and it will only get better as I learn it.

There are a bunch of adjustments I need to make that I didn't get to last night just not enough time but with the stock setup that Brian suggest the car was awesome.

Watching Weylin and Brian run mod was awesome MS2.3 just handles like it is on rails. Now we all know Brian is an awesome driver I aspire to drive a 12th scale like he does but Weylin is and will be a force that kid has some skills.

Brain awesome job on this kit I am glad I finally stepped up a purchased it. Racing on carpet will once again be fun.

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone
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Old 11-26-2005, 04:01 PM   #57
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Guys,

What should the width of the rear tires be. Weylin told me this on Wed but I forgot to write it down. Thanks
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Old 11-26-2005, 04:04 PM   #58
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Deric once again thanks for loaning me all the parts to get the car setup and Peyton wanted to tell Sam thanks for letting him play his game he forgot to tell him that last night. So last night in the middle of the night I get a call into the room telling me he forgot to say thanks.
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:08 PM   #59
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Allen - The rear tire width (from outside of wheel to outside of wheel) should be 6 3/4". The best way to make sure its spaced properly is make a mark directly in the center of the lower rear pod plate (some plates like the L4 one have a hole in the center which you can use) and measure to the outside of either wheel and make sure its 3 3/8" evenly. My car always feels much more stable than having the rear end narrower so I never change it.
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Old 11-26-2005, 11:02 PM   #60
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Well that explains some of my problems my rear is way to narrow. Thanks Weylin.
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