https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...fd&oe=55577AE9

Im just saying... lol

Here's the body post tool that can do that for you also.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=3615#images

It's amazing what you can do with a pencil sharpener...

Tamiya USA has info up on the new 2.0mm lower deck.

Mike

I've nearly finished mine. Just need to mount the body and put it on a setup board.

Very impressed with the quality overall apart from the C-Hubs which have an awful lot of play.

I've got a quick question: On my previous kits there's been retainers for the battery like this:

http://www.abc-rc-shop.nl/images/X-306186.jpg

This kit doesn't have those and just has the little posts with a screw. Does this really work? I'm a little worried about my lipo flying out half way through the race!

How tight does it need to be with the battery and the screw?

Does anyone know of any retainers that fit the 419?

Short answer: Yes, they work. Difficult to get tape by them easily and kinda annoying.

Tip: Use a piece of electrical insulating tape (rubberized splicing tape) under batt and strap down tight. The batt won't move…no matter how many times you roll the car.

Thanks

You will want this: It is a special foam tape that is the thinnest I have seen and has the right amount of friction.

http://www.amain.com/yokomo-132x25x0...-sheet/p391022

http://www.amain.com/images/large/yok/yokb7-118rs_1.jpg

Cheers

Are you guys add extra shim to fix "C-hub play"?if so where do you put it (top vs bottom assuming shimming only vertical moves) and what size of shim do you use?

Thanks
Marton

Shim under the flange, not at the top. You add shims at the top I change your roll centre.

Modified shock stay?
 

quote=cplus;13836838]Quite a few neat/odd

- missing screws in shock towers as mentioned - but is there a grub screw used as a locating pin? Hard to see clearly, but doesnt look like just a missing screw

Something doesn't look right in the picture, I see part of the countersink for the flathead screw sticking out in on direction.
Is it possible that they slotted the holes on the dampener stay to lower it even more. Maybe that's why they didn't add the bottom screws because the head of the screw is too close to the bottom of the bulkhead?
The middle of the stay does looks very close to the diff to where it is almost hitting that would happen only if it was lowered.
Just my 2? :nod:

I'm actually thinking of shimming on the arm pin. That's where mine is sloppy!

I had to shim both parts.

My impression was they were trrying to emulate shock stay with 2 screws and to keyed holes to see if it will change performance