Tamiya Blue screws ftw
Life is so short, building toy cars should be fun, and not to be ridiculed by a bitter troll :ha:

Actually raced the car at my little home track last night. Really impressed with it as it was the track that actually matters for me as it's against my regular racing buddies.

I managed to win with a 2 lap lead in the end. (They are 6-7 second laps for the faster guys) The track is tight so played around with the settings a little (Went closer to the kit settings) the car felt great but when off power the car felt a little loose. I was going to change the rear roll centre as I still have the under block rear shims, but I also wanted to ensure the tyres were scrubbed in.


[QUOTE=cplus;13874129]What's your thinking there? Top deck fractures are the most common at my track(s)

I was once told to never bother with a top deck a long time ago as the racer's all told me that it can mess with the overall flex characteristics. So I have never done so since.

As you mention it is probably safer to seal it.

that does make possible sense. I guess it depends if it has been designed to flex with the edges sealed or not - you may or may not want it!

here look.

5min effort.
http://ets.redrc.net/wp-content/gall...ny/rhe_cf4.jpg

5 *hours* effort (maybe :lol:)
http://ets.redrc.net/wp-content/gall...ic/vol_cf5.jpg

stuff that!

My front belt is rubbing the servo mount. Anyone else have this problem and solution?

I've double check the center puller and front spool orientations and they are per-manual.

Only a tiny amount of front spool play so shining that tiny play won't help anything.

The spacers the manual says to use on the actual servo to servo mount can also snag it more leading to the belt getting damaged. That I can remove the spaces but the mount itself still rubs.

I checked mine tonight.

I've had a very mild amount of running too - but then I also noticed a loose screw!

Out with the loctite. Will see if a non wobbly spool will fix it.

Same here anyone got a solution

I actually ended up flipping the front spool opposite of what the manual said, it helped and also 2 thin shims to move the spool further away. Now the belt isn't bending at the server mount but still a very slight rub that did cause some of the anondizing to wear off the servo mount. Not acceptable Tamiya!!

Maybe shimming the actual spool gear from the spool mount would help a little too but I didnt try that.

When building a new car (especially if it's a brand I'm not familiar with) I always build it once as per instructions, note any problems like the one in above posts, pull it apart again & rebuild and make necessary adjustments.

You'll find you'll end up with a better car if done this way (& always keep a written log)

Just my 20c worth...:nod:

Flipping? How do you mean....? Do you mean the actually pulley in the soool drive? Surely not flip in the bulkhead!

I used the wider adjustment position of the spool outdrive on the servo side and not the other side. This moves spool towards battery side and gives it plenty of clearance. Hope this makes sense.

Sorry to spam here but got some tools up for sale that I figured someone on here would want.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...0-shipped.html

I'm intrigued by that as well, cause if it was flipped in the bulkheads, there is no way that it should look right!! Belt would be diagonal and wrap around the servo mount... Hmm.

It'll be hard to stop the belt rubbing on the mount, just due to the proximity of the two, although with two race days with a mod under its belt, no signs of rubbing on my car. And it's all as the manual states.

I can't work out what in these two steps you could do different?

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps57bf2fb7.jpg