toe chart
 

is there anyone out there that could point me to a place that i could get a 'toe chart' for the 419? i am new to the tamiya suspension block nomenclature and have no idea without using a setup station what the different suspension block combinations create from a toe out/in perspective.

Thanks so much

A=0
B=.5
C=1
D=1.5
E=2

XA= -.5
XB= -1
Example XA and E=3 degrees of toe
The number one on the block is the height of the blocks. Some blocks have just letters and the height of those are taller.

thanks for the explanation , but that doesn't make sense to me? xa = -.5 and e = 2... how do those two add up to 3 deg. i guess i was wondering if there was a chart that showed all the possible combinations. Sorry, but again, i am a tamiya rookie. I have only owned xray and yokomo cars in the past

s/b like this
1XA= 0.0------------------XA= 0.0
1X = .0
1A = 1.0
1B = 1.5
1C = 2.0
1D = 2.5
1E = 3.0-------------------1E= 3.0

so in the case above, -.5 * 2 (each side) = -1 deg and the E would be 2 deg... so in essence, 3 deg... correct?

Try these

.

Thats funny, because you pretended to know it all before I pointed out the error of your ways...:rolleyes:

Re-read my original post. I say to add a shim to go to 3.5mm on the outer hub. The correct assumption I made was that he was using the kit 3mm shims already.

Ride height does have an effect on the overall rc, yes, but in this case, when comparing the difference between settings on one end of the car, it means diddly squat. If comparing front to rear then yes having ride heights set correctly is key, but not in the original case here, of showing the difference between settings. And anyway, I had again made the assumption of 5mm front, 5.5mm rear, which is pretty standard.

I stand by original statements, in terms of tuning. Roll centre and rear shock location would be the first two things to change, then look at other changes. Altering the ride height is going to have less affect on the roll of the car than the rear roll-centre, and also may not be possible if the track is bumpy.

Actually, I think there is a mistake on those charts as the 'X' block is missing from the 'inside' column. Kinda an issue when the kit rear blocks are X/F! :(
Updated chart attached.

It should be like this, pretty easy actually, all in increments of .5

XD=-2
XC=-1.5
XB=-1
XA=-.5
X=0
A=.5
B=1
C=1.5
D=2
E=2.5
F=3

Yes, but it's also worth bearing in mind that XA/E gives 3deg, as does X/F.. But the difference is that the hinge pin width will be narrower, making the car not quite as wide.
Also moves the lower shock location (in relation to the upper mount), and also alters the roll centre and camber gain properties.

Ed

sorry for forgetting about the X block. Been racing Tamiya since 2002 and never used one.

I found this chart on my hard drive. Would these values apply to the 419?

If you used those toe-blocks, yes it would. Tamiya use the same style blocks (and lettering convention) across all it's cars.

thanks everyone... that helps a good bit! i wish that was in the manual or posted on petit rc... maybe it needs to be :)