It does depend on the motor - some have longer/shorter snouts and also different chamfer. LRP are hard to mount well on the 419 mount for example.

Panaracer 48P Spurs fit well.

Hi there,

Just a minor question: do you del confortable w/o any lateral battery stopper? I mean, having only motor wires "avoiding" lateral movement seems to me not safe enough (at least in mod).

Do you use some kind of stopper? If so, which one do you suggest?
419x battery holder does not seems to be enough regarding lateral movement, does it?

Thanks in advance and regards

I was worried about this with the 419 and so I got some of the yokomo anti slip tape (which comes with the 419x) and I've had no problems. Even after a good crash the battery had always remained in place.

Had a 6-hour race, called Fun Race for me a training day :lol:
Have a 3 man team, every 20 minutes a run or less if default was earlier.

After a couple of crash, no broken C-Hub, which surprised me really. To make matters worse, I had my spare or tuning parts forget. So I asked for spare parts 64dp pinion and XRay 2.6 springs. Luckily were nice guys locally who loaned me the parts. thank you

So I replaced the smj Purple with xray springs 2.6 and new (old) Volante tires.

Suddenly the pace was also my friend. Really fast was my TRF 419x, had fights with the strong guys, but lost speed, thinking it was the warm motor, which could cool never right, based on the failure of the other team members :D

My Result:
With no spare parts and 6 hours on the track made the TRF 419x a really good figure. Very stable the car and quickly when the electronics does not fail.

Looking forward to more results

Note: No leaking Diff and Shocks

Interesting. 2nd person to mention that. You built the shocks and diff with stock components?
- Jose

I was asking me exactly the same question :).

Using parts from the 419x kit and some green slime would be ideal imho... But, regarding diff, I do not completely understand why taking into acciunt that it is exactly the same that the 419 one :S


@daveaustin5: nice to know it. Thanks for your comment ;). I will try anyway battery holders used in the exotek conversions for TB Evos. They really make me feel safer...

Regards

I built it stock with no slime grease. They changed the O ring I think that's why it's better

Today was my 1st ever race on carpet. I had a couple practice days under my belt but that was it. Today was also the 1st time i have really felt comfortable enough to make changes and feel what they were doing. Since i got the car it has always been very twitchy. Until today i chalked it up to not being used to carpet, all i have raced in the last decade is offroad. Anyway first change i did was raise the rear outer camber link but that didn't do much. 2nd pack i noticed had a fair amount of brake dialed in and finally got it to get the tires to make some noise coming into hard corners and my fast lap went from 11.1 to 10.6 and managed to get 9 laps under 11.1. This took me from the tail end of rookie to being close to top 3. Not smart enough to leave well enough alone ( i may need a get a 2nd car so i don't have so much time on my hands) i removed the 2 10g weights from the front. I thought my car was about this much over anyway. (turns out it was only 10g over) Well the twitchiness was completely gone and it was a push monster! Unfortunately i should have spent some of that time between heats putting in some new battery tape because a few laps in my battery was hanging out the side. Brilliant. I really do wish it had some kind of retainer like nearly all of the other cars have.

The 419 came with a set of orange and black o-rings. The orange leaked so we started to use the black. In my experience the black leaked as well.
So I switched to the X-ray white o-ring.

So the question is if the new black o-ring is different than the one included with original 419.

Hey all,
run this weekend 11-lip packs with 419x with out any issues.:D:D
no leaking no diff probs....driver (me) is a noooooooooooooob :nod:

@ diff:
use kit black o-ring with a lot of grease to seal and ball bearings in the diff cases.
really funny runs with over 49 C deg track temp on our local track.
kit springs (about 2.8 or 2.9) are very good on high grip.-
lot of steering have to set 0,5 shim under front susp. holder to compensate.
SMJ linear hard is more stable.

summary:
really a lot of fun..... if the driver is able to........:D:D:D

For anyone interested, Samix have released a floating steering system for the TRF419X.

Building on the design of the previous TRF419 variant, the new set respects the changes made to the “X” kit while retaining the overall idea of lifting the steering bellcrank posts from the chassis to the upper servo mount brace in order to achieve improved front chassis flex while also reducing the negative influence of chassis flex on the steering output. Included in the kit come new inner and outer aluminium servo mount brackets, aluminium bellcrank posts and a carbon fibre upper plate.

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...ngSteering.jpg

A little closer to my faux 19X. F front block is on the way. I read someplace someone had actually gone back to the 419 shocks with 418 towers so i am not going to mess with the shocks. Chances are someone who can't tape a battery in won't feel the difference anyway. LOL

Build my Diff with XRay O-Ring and my shocks with Black Tamiya O-Rings because of the Rebound doesn`t work with the stock blue things.

Must say I only drive 13,5 Motor in our Race - to slow to leak :lol:

Acording to the manuals, both 419 &419x black o-rings seem to be the same... We are "forced" again to use non kit parts :S

Regards

ToniSport just posted up small video with Team Tamiya
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