Sorry about that! The MR-33 setup is completely wrong for the ETS race. The updated file has been uploaded.

I believe you mean centistoke (CST).

After this guy:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sir_Geo...s,_1st_Baronet

Associated have CST ratings and their oils are pure silicone made (by their claim) by Lucas. Bottles come (for shocks) in 5CST increments and I am not sure, but we (in Oz) get 1000 increments for diff oils.

Now how accurate and reliable their claims are, well, who knows?

Well there you go.

I just assumed it was a modern metric measure of distance with respect to viscosity. Or similar. Should have known some bloke had his name on it.

Can't say I've ever given it much thought. And that includes 4yrs of a BE :) obviously Stokes law wasn't a stand out for me.

Must have been second year when I was at the bar.

Finally managed to make it to the track today, and got a good amount of setup work in despite the weather... still plenty sitting on the list, but really good start :)

http://www.thard.co.uk/new-year-new-choices/

Tamiya 42285 TRF419 build and review
 

Here is my 42285 Tamiya TRF419 Build and Review.

http://www.thercracer.com/2015/02/42...nd-review.html

Which parts are needed to build the 419 shocks with 2 orings?
Thanks very much

53574 Damper o-ring and rod guide, plus 8 o-rings go your choice (I use the trf ones, which are the same as the MM ones)

Hey Ed,
Welcome back to the Tamiya fold... ;)

Care to elaborate on the difference between running 1 and 2 O-rings? I take it it's not a maintenance thing.

Thanks,
Jose

There's a couple of reasons, and I'd be lying if I said that one of them wasn't for maintenance... as two O-rings do give a better seal on the shaft, and reduce leakage a lot.
Additionally, I found on previous cars, double o-rings seem to help make the shock build a bit more consistent, as well as provide a bit more traction. And, if I'm totally honest, you look at the Yokomo setups, the team guys always always always run double... there has to be a reason for it!
I will say that on the second car I built up I did a comparison between single and double, and preferred the feel on the bench of the double. Hence running it at the weekend. I do intend at some point to try out the singles... but that's low on the list of priorities atm! :p

Ran the car this weekend after making a few changes from the previous week.
Initially I had Blue front and yellow rear (Tamiya) springs but had too much sliding around when on power or during long corners. Changed the rear spring to a blue (so blue front and rear) and made it much better, I could slam the throttle and the rear was about perfect.

I also changed the front wheelbase from 1.5mm to 2mm as it felt the front was too planted and the rear, loose as a fish's tail, was just following the front wheels.
2mm again helped a lot remove some rotation making the rear more stable.

Corner entry is just about perfect with enough rotation off-throttle.

I would say however that the car might be understeering slightly overall but I'll sort that later.

My main issue now is that the rear is a little loose (not yet perfect) in chicanes or mid-high speed quick direction changes.
I was wondering what is the list of parameters (springs, camber, oil, roll center etc..) and in what order would you change those to get a more stable read end in on-power direction changes ?

My setup is pretty basic :

-2mm under front inner links
-1mm under rear inner links.
-0.5 mm under rear suspension mount
-450 oil front and rear
-Tamiya blue springs front and rear
-Kit gear diff oil (900wt I think)
-1.5° and 2° front/rear camber
-C/C front suspension blocks
-X/F rear suspe aion blocks
-2mm front wheelbase and 3mm rear
-6mm front droop on gauges
-5mm rear droop on gauges
Thanks, much appreciated!

First thing I would do is lose the 0.5mm under the rear suspension mounts, so run the blocks flat on the deck. If you find that ties the car down too much, go to 3.5mm under the rear outside link :)
I assume your running kit shock positions? If running hole 3 in the rear, can also try hole 4, will help to lock the car in a bit better.

HiH
Ed

3 hole piston it is.

I will try that, running the suspension blocks flat and then alter the camber link angle.

Thanks Ed !

Ahh, I actually meant the shock mounting on the tower ;) Kit is hole 3, can try moving the rear shock up one hole to 4.

HiH
Ed

Oh right, I shall try that then! Would that just limit the weight transfered from one side to another to avoid sudden weight changes and cause the rear to slide ?
Cheers !

Your rear end is loose on power because the front is too agile, but that does not mean you should slow down the front, but rather speed up the rear. I would go a lower oil in the rear shocks (30 should be pretty close) and more droop. Keep in mind your rear end needs to roll at least as much as the front and right now I don't think it does, hence your problem.
This is assuming your upper camber links allow a low roll centre which I think you're far from. To cure a similar problem on my 418, I got to 3mm on the inner camber link. Perhaps you should address this first. Removing the plate from under the suspension block might help lower the roll centre a bit but raising the outer camber link is going to completely offset that effect and your rear end will roll even less.