Going up in oil makes the diff more "locked". The wheels will operate more in unison.

You will get more corner speed and on power steering. But go too heavy and all you'll do is spin and if not spinning it will be lazy to turn in

Too light and you will light up the inner wheel ("diff out") as the power will all go to one wheel.

Probably obvious from the above, but the higher the grip, the harder to oil you can get away with.

On asphalt, and assuming you're only going to use the diffs in the rear, not much difference. If you want to find out, get the diffs together, put one in something that can spin it, and grab the other end. You'll feel when it locks which is pretty much nowhere with those oils.

You'll need a very high difference in revs between left and right wheels to have it lock (lock is a manner of speaking, it's a point where you feel the diff trying to transfer torque to the wheel you grab).

With that kind of oil the diff will be very progressive and very free (think of it if you will as "adding exponential" to your wheels - the higher the viscosity, the more linear torque transfer - not necessarily in a mathematical sense - kicks in early and steep; soft oils kick in very gently and ramp up slowly)

Hi guys,

I apologize if im at the wrong thread, couldnt find a specific thread to post..
New to this site and was hoping to get knowledgeable advice form you all.

got into the r/c/ hobby around 2002 but got in and out of it and ended around 2013 and now getting back into it.
I've had the TL-01, TB03R AND TT01R TYPE E.

But since then technology and new kits have been improved and out on the market.

I'll be using it mainly for parking lot smooth surfaces. I'm not interested in the TT02 chassis therefore my local hobby store has recommended the TA05 V2 gold Edition which they have in stock. They also suggested the TRF419 but im afraid those TRF class chassis are only good for really smooth surfaces and will just get beaten up. What do you guys prefer I should look at? Budget for chassis around $650.

Thanks

I just started using RC Crew Chief in the last few days for my 417. The CoG and unsprung mass would be individualized, right? Each user might have different hex sizes, wheel and insert and tire weights, etc, right?

Haven't bought scales yet but with the prices at AMERICANWEIGH.COM, this should not be an issue. Just need to figure out which ones to get.

The TA-05 ver.2 is a good chassis but the Gold addition is old stock (easily 3 plus years old) and was $$$!!!. Also the TA-05 was a bit on the heavy side; more so with those pretty gold aluminum bulkheads and IFS.

I use my 417 on parking lot tracks with an Associated Chassis Protector (it's a 1mm adhesive sheet of Teflon) and it does a pretty good job protecting it. Doing the same to a 419 would be advisable on a parking lot track.

The 419 is a better buy because it's going to end up being at least 250g lighter then that TA-05 ver.2

Another chassis I really like is the Tamiya EVO6 but they're getting hard to find in the states. Also their on the heavy side so it's a better USGT/VTA car then a Stock or Mod car

You can buy what your shop has in stock, The TA series isn't bad and good for what you want it for. FYI TA06, TA06R are the latest kits in that line. Also look into a shaft tamiya, the TB04 pro or EVO 6. Dont forget about the Front wheel drive series also FF03-FF04. No need for the 419 if you're not interested in actually racing it.

419 Build Recommendations
 

Hello All!

So my 419 is on it's way along with some Square alloy chubs and a set of titanium turnbuckles. I plan on using the 419 as a 17.5 car on both carpet asphalt. Other then picking up a Samix aluminum chassis for carpet racing, what else should I consider having ready before I start the build?

Where did you buy the alu chubs and what degree were they?

Banzai Hobby has them. 5 degrees

The diff is a massive tuning option, don't listen to those who say you won't feel much difference. It's not so much locking, more that the heavier oils provide more resistance to the differential gears turning, and hence a heavier oil doesn't allow as much difference between inside and outside wheel speed.

Going from the kit to say 3000 oil, you should feel the car will gain a lot of on-power steering, but also loose a bit of off-power. The kit oil is pretty light, around 900, so for me personally I would (and have) start out heavier. 2000-3000 is a good start.

In terms of why adjust from a 2000 diff, if I felt I was lacking a bit of drive out of tighter turns, and was inconsistent, I would go up on the oil. If it was stepping out, or felt skatey and hard to get on power, then I would go down.

Personally, I use the diff tuning predominately for drive off the corner, and just taking the change in off-power as a given (and make other adjustments to compensate for that). I like going as heavy a wt as possible, without starting to make the car too loose... Which in modified, tends to be around the 2000-5000 range, depending on grip level. Higher grip, as mentioned by cplus, does tend to mean you can get away with heavier oils.

Oh just to let you know PDR, SMA is soon to become my local track... Look forward to catching up at some point :)

Is this the correct model number? STV-36R Says they are 5 degrees.

"Aluminum C-Hubs for the reversible suspension. The 2.6mm suspension shafts will be fixed from the bottom side with a M3 grub screw. New shape (more damper travel is now possible without touching the upperarm adjuster).

Fits all Tamiya Cars with Reversible Suspension like TRF415MS, -MSX, -Marc Rheinard Edition, TB Evo4, TB Evo5 or TB-02R"

To an extent yes. The weight distribution and CoG measurements are pretty individual. Unsprung mass for sure will be affected the most by wheel/tyre insert combination (and that actually gives me an idea to suggest to Bob), there can be a big difference between an indoor and outdoor spec tyre.

Hex sizes can be factored in on the overall track width though.

eBay also has good deals on cheap scales (as cplus showed)... I just need to get off my ass and actually order some more!

I have to admit that whilst I find the dynamic stuff interesting on RC3, I do spend most of my time looking at the static geometry, as in my mind, that is the key starting point to get right, and the most useful for developing Setups.

Awesome - we did meet briefly at nats in Brisbane a few back, but this is good news :)

BTW: I'll have 2 spare diffs for my car and plan on having them pre-built with different weight oils.

That's the ticket.

My two "go to's" are 3000 and 5000. Usually run the 3000 but pop the 5000 in if/when grip is really up. In the depths of winter when the track is like ice, I drop down to 2000.

I don't think I've ever even opened a bottle of the kit oil.

Ask syndrome to be sure. The STV-36R on banzai looks very similar to the pictures syndrome posted months back.