Here you can find the part numbers for all 419 parts:

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index...419&mth3=sinfo


Yokomo rear stabilizer:

http://www.fast-webshop.com/tonispor...BD7-BD7-ver-RS

Last night I finally decided to test the car / chassis flex by removing the motor mount screws. (Track was hobby town LV asphalt medium grip, classes 17.5 expert stock and RCGT) I removed the outer two from rear part of mount, leaving the centre screw. The results OMG :eek::eek::eek:

I have never had so much corner speed in any RC car. I kept going faster and faster, gaining confidence and the car would just hold the line. :nod: I'm officially in love with this car lol.

No chance I'll be bothering. Not like I'm chasing that last 100' every lap.

Yip that part is expensive so in the end i won't bother as well :)

Does anyone run a foam strip under their lip's like in the pic?

Any specific stuff or just any old foam tape?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/electric-road/1297544d1433918453-yokomo-touring-car-bd-7-reedy-1.jpg

I use the Yokomo rubber strip that was recommended earlier in this thread: http://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-b7118rs...h=595_746_1430

My battery didn't come out before but for a couple of dollars I like the extra assurance.

Thanks

Even the factory TRF guys run that Yokomo part.

Don't be shocked if you see a tamiya part number and header card on the exact same item soon :D

Is it worth getting the 42290 2mm chassis if you always run outdoors on low/ medium grip asphalt?

thats the reason i bought mine.

Has anyone tried to take out the inner screws for the top deck to create more flex?
Will going to the 2mm chassis be the best bet for creating more flex?
I just don't see any setup taking out the top deck inner screws.

Thanks

Taking out the top deck screws used to work quite well on the 418.

On the 419, you've got more options.

Changing the motor mount arrangement is more effective, and the 2mm chassis is more effective again. But it is still an option at the start of the day for low grip. Each does change the flex in a slightly different way, but I'm not good enough to tell the subtle difference! Sadly I got rained out on the weekend or I would report more.

I've not got the step screws for the shock towers (you can use them in the motor mount too)

I reckon if you used all the "2's" - 2mm chassis, 2 motor screws, 2 shock tower screws, 2 top deck screws at each end - the car would be an absolute noodle.

Thanks for the reply Cplus.
I tried the 2 screws on the motor mount and it helped.
Small change but it helped get more rear traction.
Gonna try the 4 inner screws off the top deck this weekend, before going to the 2mm chassis.
I want to get the chassis to feel more connected to the track.

With the 2 screws for the shock towers, do you have to use something for the bottom holes once the screws are out?
I tried to just use 2 top screws and the bottom holes open.
The chassis didnt feel right. lol.

you will need the tamiya #42294 option part. this will prevent the shock tower from tweaking.